Fleece vgt controller on 12v

Cam73

Cam73

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Sep 15, 2007
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106
Hey everyone-
I've searched without much luck about the 12valv controllers the turbo in mind is a 60mm he451ve
Wondering if anyone is running the totally stand alone MAP only controller yet? Is tuning the same as the 24v trucks? I saw some instances where folks are ending up with some very flat maps creating essentially a fixed turbo.seems like a lot of effort for nothing.
Can anyone comment on the reliability of the turbo?
Or if they have been able to remedy the position of the vanes if the electronics have been removed/reinstalled without going to cummins?
Excited to take a shot at this project assuming its worth the effort.
Thanks, any help is appreciated
 
most of us make a air cylinder setup. if you havent already seen that style?? in essence it equalizes the the boost and drive pressure of the setup. works really well.
 
I used the standalone controller on my 12 valve with a ford 6.0 charger. It was well worth the time/effort/money and I kick myself in the a$$ everyday for getting rid of it. Made for a very very fun DD and the "exhaust brake" function was very useful as well if you tow often.
 
I have seen some of the air cylinder setups but never came across a thread where someone was totally satisfied and was able to retain the EB function too. I think it was a Granger double acting cylinder used. Boost to one side a drive to the other was it?

Not much towing, mostly tired of the required RPM and smoke needed to wake up the S366. With the age and base pressure this engine is showing, moderate power and quick spool would be more appropriate.

Couldn't tell you a thing about the fords. What is required to pull off the swap? Is the controller priced the same? Was tuning simple? What year truck did it come off of?

I spoke with someone at Fleece today about the controller and options in general for my truck. They said the VE and controller isn't necessarily the best option in my quest for spool up. They though a good T4 manifold and T4 non gated housing would really wake things up. Maybe a billet wheel too. This is like the 30th turbo plan for this thing, getting tired of changing my mind :hehe:
 
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im in the same boat, changed my mind at leadt 15 times... settled on the 64mm 451. figure ill stuff some crazy sized turbo under it when i get bored. ill be running the air cylinder setup. turbo should be here end of next week

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FYou guys over complicate things too much... I've been building mechanical set ups that retain EB function and give in cab adjustability for over three years now... Granted I can't just ship the controls already made, I have to actually build them on the turbo.

Basically though, you use a simple stock wastegate actuator set to pull the housing full shut, then you mount a linear actuator so that it is an adjustable stop for how far the housing can close. I'll have to shoot some pics of one of the last 351s I did. 400 series chargers run the controls reverse of the 351s, but you'll get the idea.

One thing I will say, is that a drive pressure gauge is a must when running this set up so you can get a feel for how to tune it to your liking and get it back to the same spot after using the EB.
 
Also, just for the record, most of the 400 series compound better since they usually have a 67mm turbine wheel. I find a 10 blade 64mm wheel installed in the 351s helps, but still doesn't drive the primary hard enough without a gate. I'm working with a company to get a nice higher flow 10 blade 67mm turbine made too since I feel the stock 12 blade could use some improvement. :Cheer:
 
i really don't tow often and when i do its not heavy so i can live without the EB just gonna have an adjustable stop so it doesnt go crazy on drive pressure, thats the exact way i was intending origionally though, i just opted to live without it. wouldnt be hard to change it though.
 
BramanteCummins said:
i really don't tow often and when i do its not heavy so i can live without the EB just gonna have an adjustable stop so it doesnt go crazy on drive pressure, thats the exact way i was intending origionally though, i just opted to live without it. wouldnt be hard to change it though.
Click to expand...

If you aren't worried about EB or on the fly adjustment I'd highly recommend running cooled drive pressure to the wastegate actuator. Way more consistent and much easier to tune when using simple min/max stops.
 
ill just make a small copper wind and run it to one side. and are you saying to not have boost pressure? i figured itll be a good way to control boost pressure considering i dont have studs just yet.

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Here's mine
IMAG0325.jpg
 
thats not a good way of regulating boost, if you made a fueling mod youd have to tune the stop again. using a regulator you could set the pressure and forget it
 
BramanteCummins said:
thats not a good way of regulating boost, if you made a fueling mod youd have to tune the stop again. using a regulator you could set the pressure and forget it
Click to expand...

It's not like it's that hard, generally there is a sweet spot that seems to work every time right at about 2/3rds open. I usually set it with the housing off because it relates to where the collar is compared to the bottom of the turbine wheel. The collar can move past the very bottom and moving it to this point makes for a nasty inefficiency as seen on boost and drive pressure gauges since boost drops dramatically while drive stays the same. If that doesn't keep it in a useable range then an external gate is a better choice as you are overfueling the turbine side. The lack of an internal gate is about the only weakness I've found with these chargers in the almost 4 years I've been running one and numerous set ups I've built for customers.
 
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thats the common version, i got my hands on the 64 though, i should have it in the the mail next week
 
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