Fluid damper keeps comming loose!

P

Pony_Kegger

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Took our pulling truck to Texas this weekend and the balancer came loose on it. I have installed the four pins with the drill guide. I do use new bolts every time I have installed it and it has come loose three times. Truck spins 5500 coming out of the hole and runs 4400 down the track.

Am I doing something wrong with this install or is there something I need to check.
 
I did use a little bit of the mopar stuff, It was blue. Used the factory 06 spec for torque 30ft/lbs +60 degrees

Newtodagame said:
Just sale it to me! No more coming loose.
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Don't think Leah would like it if she could not pull because I sold the damper to you.
 
Just looked on Tech Connect, Posting for future searches.

Spec for 06 Cr Cummins.

NOTE: The speed indicator ring is located over a dowel pin.

2. Install the crankshaft damper and bolts. Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.), plus an additional 60°.

NOTE: The damper must be installed so the hole is located over the dowel pin.

3. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation) .
 
You may be spending too much time in the RPM range where the natural harmonic frequency is located for your crank. Otherwise, it may be an imbalance in the rotating assembly or clutch.

Woodruff sells a 12" balancer that helps on the mod trucks.
 
I had issues with mine coming looose. Turns out my flexplate bolts on the convertor were loose. Tightened them up and no mover issues.
 
WUnderwood said:
I want to say the factory tq spec is 125 ft lbs for a CR
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This is what Fluid Damper recommends now

Pony_Kegger said:
Just looked on Tech Connect, Posting for future searches.

Spec for 06 Cr Cummins.

NOTE: The speed indicator ring is located over a dowel pin.

2. Install the crankshaft damper and bolts. Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.), plus an additional 60°.

NOTE: The damper must be installed so the hole is located over the dowel pin.

3. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation) .
Click to expand...

You are correct this is the factory spec however Fluid Damper changed their spec to 125 ftlbs and I add Loctite as well. I had this issue with mine prior to the new spec and LT.
 
Red loctite is meant for vibrations. Blue doesn't handle vibrations.
 
whitneyj said:
Red loctite is meant for vibrations. Blue doesn't handle vibrations.
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Basically...yes. ;)

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.
 
4x4dually said:
Basically...yes. ;)

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.
Click to expand...

This is the part I don't like about red for a engine that has to come apart at any given moment. Don't really want to heat thesnout of the crank to 500
 
That is why I posted that up so everyone could see that. I should have highlighted that too.
 
I've used red on lots of stuff and never heated a part to get it back out. Just have a good fitting socket, long breaker, and whack the end good with a hammer, it'll break'em loose.
 
It's what I've used the last 15 years working on diesels and I've never had to heat a part up. Like Ghostman said, 6 point socket with good leverage, and a small ball pean hammer to tap/lightly smack the ratchet/breaker bar in the direction you're turning it and it'll break loose every time.

The other thing to remember, is when applying Loctite-you ony apply to 2 threads, not the entire shank of the bolt. That's what gets you in trouble.
 
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