Freeze Plugs

Thekid760

Thekid760

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I'm not sure if this is the correct thread to post this in, but I've been doing some reading and have a few questions.

It seems that although not common, there have been multiple cases of people blowing out their rear freeze plugs. It seems that most people who have are doing so at the track and likely above 4500rpm's.

Is this something that I should address while my motor is out? Its a street truck, might make it to the local 1/8 once or twice a year at most, only spinning 4k max.

It seems the solution is an electric WP, or clipping the impellers of stock WP and adding the bolt on rear freeze plug and installing a bypass.

Plug:

http://www.bnbtooling.com/more-products.html

I read these threads:

Freeze plug solutions? What say you???? - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

Blew the rear freeze plug... - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

Thanks,

Mark
 
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Mark-

If you have the motor out, I would see it as cheap insurance to replace it with a threaded plug.
 
Thats what I was thinking, but is the bypass necessary on a street truck?

Threaded plug, or the bolt on one like in the link?
 
The bypass is not necessary but a billet rear plug or steel plate over the rear plug is a good idea.
 
LReiff said:
The bypass is not necessary but a billet rear plug or steel plate over the rear plug is a good idea.
Click to expand...

I disagree. If your making enough pressure to blow a rear freeze plug a bolt in one is not solving the problem just causing another. All that pressure is a lot of stress on block and I would go with a bypass setup over a bolt in plug at the rear of the block.
 
kjpcummins said:
I disagree. If your making enough pressure to blow a rear freeze plug a bolt in one is not solving the problem just causing another. All that pressure is a lot of stress on block and I would go with a bypass setup over a bolt in plug at the rear of the block.
Click to expand...


Do both.

I run the bolt in rear plug, with a bypass kit, a trimmed pump, and have a larger than stock pulley on my pump, threaded in freeze plugs in the head.
In 3 years I have had zero freeze plug issues....
 
Do the bypass, Secure the rear plug and clip the pump.
 
will clipping the pump cause any overheating issues on the street or when towing?

I assume the stock freeze plug has to come out when installing the kit.

Can I just use that big threaded plug on the rear drivers side of the head that's screwed in?
 
Thekid760 said:
will clipping the pump cause any overheating issues on the street or when towing?

I assume the stock freeze plug has to come out when installing the kit.

Can I just use that big threaded plug on the rear drivers side of the head that's screwed in?
Click to expand...

I don't have any experience towing with a clipped pump, but it would probably depend on how much material you remove. If you don't go crazy I think it would still be ok.

With my billet rear plug the stock one has to come out.

I have setup the bypass using either the billet rear freeze plug or that plug you spoke of (between cylinders 5 & 6 I think).
 
I would NOT clip the water pump on a street truck. We tried that on the Corvette but it would not flow enough water to keep it cool. Run Jesse's rear freeze plug with a bypass. My truck spent 2 and a half hours on a dyno with my bypass open. Runs were made from 2700-4500 rpm, all 11, and the water temp only got to 208* according to my Performax system.

DSC00271.jpg


Crude, simple, and works like a charm.
 
Eneterprise engine has a bypass kit based on a pressure regulator valve. I just used the valve, rear freeze plug, and the clamps from the kit.
 
Here is a question for a pulling truck only.

If one has a clipped pump, thermostat with 1/8" holes drilled in it to relieve pressure, billet side plugs and the bolt on rear plate, can I plug the rear outlet and not need a bypass, or is there a good chance I am going to need the bypass to prevent popping any of the soft plugs on the head?

BowtiedCTD- Do you return your bypass to the lower heater hose port? This might be a good idea since I want to plug my heater hose ports anyway, I can just run the bypass to the lower connection rather than having it return up over the motor to the thermostat housing.
 
I mounted my valve on the rear passenger side of the engine and ran the hose to the lower radiator hose inlet. Can't even see the bypass.
 
which valve are you guys using? I used to use a ball valve, but would like to make it an automatic deal this time around.
 
getblown5.9 said:
which valve are you guys using? I used to use a ball valve, but would like to make it an automatic deal this time around.
Click to expand...


EEP had a valve in their kit. That is the one I used. My understanding it is a water pressure valve. I was thinking it was in the $150 range for the kit. Would have been cheaper to buy the valve and the rear block off, but I was I didn't want to try to source it.
 
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getblown5.9 said:
which valve are you guys using? I used to use a ball valve, but would like to make it an automatic deal this time around.
Click to expand...

I would be interested in something like this also. I'm going to be doing something while my engine is out also. I wouldn't mind not to having to get out open the hood to open the valve every time I run the truck hard.
 
I use an adjustable pressure relief valve, I think I still have a few on the shelf, about $45.
 
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