Front drive shaft options?

NEsmoker

NEsmoker

New member
Last night i ran the truck for the first pull on the new build. Spooled it up on the line, let off the brakes with about 30 psi and the front drive shaft blew apart:nail:, i went 3 ft and some inches. Im not shure if the front yoke is trashed yet but the shaft is junk. What are my option for strength in the front? Can i get rid of the cardan joint and just have 2 ujoints with a slip yoke in the shaft? Whats everyone else doin with 2.8 and 3.0 power on the front shaft?
 
Find a rear 2 piece from a second gen. Use the section that has the slip joint in it, get it shortened, buy a 1410 yoke for the d60 and the tcase.
 
If u call Haisley Machine and tell them what kind of truck you have they'll make you a drive shaft without the carden joint i bought one for my puller and i love it.
 
Jeff at Drive Lines's Plus in Chandler INd. can build you one to hold. He done mine in my 03 in i havnt had any problems. No cv joint in mine eighter.
 
rob: i still have my stock 2 piece rear driveshaft from my 2nd gen if you want to go that route. i bought my 1 piece from haisley. its a nice piece and i got it real quick. if you go that route you'll be happy.
 
Deffinatly give Haisleys a call and as long as its "stock" configuration drive train all you have to do is tell them what chassis you have, trany and T-case and they will know the required shaft length and get you up and going really fast. On my old truck I had to measure from the center of the axle U-Joint to the U-joint on the T-case and it took a little longer to get because it was a custom length but worked well...you will probably never ever break it again. They will also have the required yoke/flange for the axle and t-case you need to run the 1410 joints. Like stated above...the new shaft will be have a slip joint and no CV style joints.

On our new truck we are having shafts built in the same style as mentioned above only we are running 1480's for the front.

Good luck...Ryan
 
Well looks like ill give haisleys a call tomorro and have them make one. Thanks for the info guys, hopefully i can be back up and running soon.
 
Rob I have been running the modded rear shaft for the front for over 4 years, no issues. It will save you a ton of money to go that route. The yolk/seal for the tcase will run you about $85 I got mine from haisleys or purediesel power. Then you just put in non greasable spicer 1410's and a yolk from a d70 will work on the d60. I think I had less than 200 in the setup.
 
Call Mark at Greensburg machine, he can set you up with what you need for less than anyone else. Tell him it's for a pulling truck!
 
zstroken said:
Rob I have been running the modded rear shaft for the front for over 4 years, no issues. It will save you a ton of money to go that route. The yolk/seal for the tcase will run you about $85 I got mine from haisleys or purediesel power. Then you just put in non greasable spicer 1410's and a yolk from a d70 will work on the d60. I think I had less than 200 in the setup.
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thats what i did and saved a bunch of money i had like a 100.00 in mine including the yoke from haisleys i used the 4'' tubing model though for better strength
 
Ill make some calls tomorro and see what i can come up with. I still have my rear drive shaft layin around somewhere, so mabey ill get some yokes and do that. One way or the other.
 
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