Front suspension spring rates and fine tuning

T

turbo_coffin

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Sep 9, 2015
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Discussion on front suspension setups. Most specifically spring rate and dampening. Spring shock tuning setups.

There isn't a lot of solid data out there being that it's a trial and error aspect that wins divisions but maybe se guys can chime in on it. I had intitally planned to run a higher spring rate coil and one gas shock and one low pressure shock up front but I've been getting mixed reports in my travels. Seems a lot of people who seem like they've been around swear by reduced spring rate with reduced shock dampening helping reduce hop and put the power down

Another point I'd like to iron out is how to control or limit down travel without breaking parts
 
Each type of suspension is a little different, but generally the less spring in the front the better (to a point, you have to have enough to lift off "the bottom" if the truck won't do it on it's own which is rare). That does tend to cause one issue though especially when hanging weight. The front end is planted on the ground and this is where it is when hitch height is measured. When you hook to the sled and get traction the front comes up effectively lowering your hitch. Making some adjustable stops up front can help, the issue is you do not want the truck to sit on the stops going down the track (can lead to bounce or rough ride). Where is that magic point....it's trial and error. The harder the truck hooks (depends on track, track conditions, and sled), the longer the stops you can run. Run too long a stop for crappy conditions and you will most likely have issues (hence the trial and error). Now this is just a "general" observation from over the years of running leaf sprung and torsion bar front ends. Coil sprung or others may be different....
 
That pretty much along the lines I've been wondering as well. I have my rear suspension blocked at 2 inches of travel and that's right about when my springs are just a little squatted and the traction bars have some force on em however I've found I'm just doing a two wheel drive wheelie and all my spins going to the front and then I drop back down hard and then repeat. So my game plan for next year is to for starters have her 4 way locked and more disparity in tire pressures( on 12.5 wide I ran 25 and 30 I'm thinking more like 20 and 50 next round ) a dual shock setup probably a fox and a skyjacker and get some springs made that have less rate and get some more weight up front. But I just am not sure I think it's a hitch issue because I borrowed a hitch last year on a stock reciever it might be too high and just too much hang out the back
 
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I can tell you I've spent years figuring out what works on my rig and its not really something that will just get passed out to anyone. Every truck is different and its sounds like your at the beginner stages of all this. Alot depends on the manufacturer of the truck. If its a ford good luck. Trial and error is the only way to figure it out. Try searching on here for some setup info
 
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Oh believe me I knew you'd say this. Good chassis win races they win pulls they win the Lemans etc. Noone who's big is going to give away all that r and d. I'm not asking for someone to do that work for me. Just want to get on the right track with working theory. Not what rate works for what etc. Quite simply and as you said truck to truck fr tore to tire track and weather it's all different and a factor. What I'm asking is more the raw principles, I want to know more about real on track effects of increased dampening with less weight on the front of the truck and relationship with a stiffer or softer spring rate etc. More of an open ended discussion really
 
And I realize it's a pretty tough question to ask without coming off as stupid. . I'm not but as you say I'm just starting out in pulling. I understand the various dynamics of chassis setup in other applications I am really just asking for resources to pour through the data myself and to log my own to ultimately make my own hopefully informed decisions and go from there. But again I realise it's tough to not look like your looking for a hand out
 
ill say this, a nice set of shocks is a must. and when i say nice i don't mean some ranchos...

some valved shocks with different ratios...
 
Well ideally yeah. But Ballin on a budget is the name of the game for now. And it's a jumping off point because there adjustable. Essentially hope was I could see how they affect characteristics from soft to stiff without spending too much until there so so dialled in then fork out for shocks that I can actually install different shims inside without starting from scratch
 
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Id put more emphasis on building an effective hitch and chassis first. Fine tune your preload on the front, run some decent shocks and work from there. There are a few tricks we run that don't cost a dime, but that comes with experience...
 
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