Got her dropped!

mean----to say here's mine lowered

front:1500 front springs, with 2inch spacers

rear: overloads "uppers and lowers" removed,,,, the 5inch block removed , installed a 2.5 inch block with new u-bolts...

just set up drags

Thats pretty much my setup in the rear. Instead of blocks I have a hangar flip. The front is 1500 v6 springs, and I'll be putting in a 1" spacer.
 
This is mine dropped, full spring packs in the rear with no blocks, stock front springs with a full coil cut out of them.

ajyvy6av.jpg


-Rick
 
The rear one is still the factory length, but the front is going to have to be shortened to work.
 
Rick, did you have to alter the driveshaft length?

Good point. I procrastinated on my rear shaft for 8 months, and I regret it a little. The rear ujoint was showing signs of extra wear, and the seal in the tcase was phucked up. I had no idea it was that tight. I took 1.5" off, and now it's a perfect fit. The rear was only lowered 2.25". I guess the weight from towing and suspension travel was too much, because I know when people do their 2/4 drops they don't have issues.

My front driveshaft is fine, even with the current 6+ drop.
 
This is mine dropped, full spring packs in the rear with no blocks, stock front springs with a full coil cut out of them.

ajyvy6av.jpg


-Rick

How high is your rear and front fender well from ground?

I want to lower my 99 and looking information, your truck sits exactly how I like
 
Mike I've used something similar... It was actually hard rubber though.

However now that I have your attention, it was on a dirt track car to change spring rates so I couldn't tell you how it works on a street vehicle. I would imagine it would work great. Might look at speedway motors as well. Look in the dirt track section for coil spring spacers.
 
My buddy used the hard rubber ones on his ranger. Not quite level and not an extreme rake. Mind you that this was on a 2wd, I would think a 4wd would work much better IMO.
 
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