Harder Better Faster Stronger

Thekid760

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Jun 12, 2008
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I got killed by the KDP so I've decided to upgrade a bunch of stuff while I'm in there.

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I have a bunch of questions and will be posting them as I go.

Here's a list of my planned mods/upgrades, anything I'm unsure of or would like comments I'll put a (?) after it.

- Twins WH1C over S475?
-CAT S475 ?(75/114 comp 6" inlet, 85mm exducer turbine) I already have it, was lying around...
-5" DP back (I have a 4" hx40 turbo mount pacbrake I'd like to throw in if it wouldn't cork my exhaust too much)?
-5x.011 SAC Injectors
- 60lb springs
- 4k gsk
- #7 banks plate
- afc mods
- mack plug
- colt stage3 big stick cam
- mild ported head
- ARP 12mm Studs
- banks twin ram
- 5spd manual, 4.10's, DRW
- DD clutch?
- 1-3/8" input shaft?
- 5th gear nut retainer
- rebuild vacuum pump
- replace all seals/gaskets, whatever I can get to.

I have a long way to go but it'll be a heck of a lot better. I mainly DD my truck, so spirited street driving, want to take it to the 1/8 a couple times just because, and only tow 10k or under a couple times a year or less, but want to retain ability to tow 15-20k and have it easy for my gf to drive (if that'll ever happen :hehe:)

Any input is appreciated. Pics to follow...
 
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When pulling the cam I heard a "thud" Damn!

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My stock injectors were not seating well.

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My solution

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The CAT turbo

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My LUK stock replacement clutch was barley alive after 100k miles/12 years, I think the guy I bought it from towed a bunch.

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good to know, how do you think that'll work?

I found some numbers on a tag on the center:

130-5469
C4DS034
E2301A 379

Maybe someone with more info can help me out on that?
 
I'd forget about the cam, ported head, plate, and twin ram unless you really just want to spend money. Get a good fuel system (95 pump needs 45+ psi to it to run right) and save the rest.
 
When I bought the truck it already had the Banks stinger Kit (Twin Ram, plate, cat-back exhaust) on it, so I'm just reusing the plate and twin ram.

I have a good friend who specializes in head work and has worked on many NMRA/NHRA/Bonneville record setting cars. He offered to look my head over, give it a valve job, set up the springs, and port it for a very very good price, so I let him at it.

I was thinking on upgrading the cam just for quicker spool-up/overall efficiency since it was already out, but now I'm thinking I'll just spend that money elsewhere like an upgraded input.

so the 160 pump likes to get at least 45 psi? Will my stock lift pump supply that? I bought the tork tek OFV020, will that be enough? If not Ive read about people using a holley black as a pusher pump.

I've seen P7100 dual feed kits, doesn't seem like that's necessary, or is it?

Timing? Think 18* would be a good place to start?

Thanks for the input, comments, and suggestions, I appreciate it :rockwoot:
 
'll be watchin how you do your piping... im going 3rd gen over HT60 with a 26cm housing
 
'll be watchin how you do your piping... im going 3rd gen over HT60 with a 26cm housing

I'm not exactly sure how I'll do it yet. the only problems I see ATM are the 5" ID bottom turbo intake (where to find that big of pipe ect) and the discharge on the Bottom turbo has a pipe pushed into it with double O-rings. I'll prob just weld a nut onto that pipe and use some sort of boost brace type setup on it.

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the boost brace type connection I want to make (I wont buy one)

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typical cat slip on piping.... cut it and v-band it... or weld a bead around the edge and use a hose and clamp like stock.... my issue is gonna be my hotpipe... cuz HT60 is reverse rotation
 
I talked to my machinist, he said I will see gains from the cam, but that if it were his truck he'd skip it and spend money elsewhere.

What do you guys think? do it while I have it apart, or spend that money on a bigger input shaft?
 
If you want to do a cheaper dual disk I might have a solution for that. I currently have a south bend dual with 5k on it for sale.

It's looking to be a good build. I also have a twin ram on my truck. Not worth the 650 banks wants but the 50 I spent on mine made it a good upgrade.

Keep us updated.
 
I would get a cam just because you might want more later down the road. What about o-ringing the head and a 24v oil pump?
 
My machinist also didn't think I'd need the O-ring, I'm willing to listen to him for now.

24v oil pump? I havent heard anything about it. Whats it supposed to do for me? Just more reliable?
 
If you want to do a cheaper dual disk I might have a solution for that. I currently have a south bend dual with 5k on it for sale.

It's looking to be a good build. I also have a twin ram on my truck. Not worth the 650 banks wants but the 50 I spent on mine made it a good upgrade.

Keep us updated.

Thanks for the offer, but buying a used clutch just doesnt sit right with me, unless the price were cheap enough that I could have it rebuilt and still be ahead.

Just a personal preference.
 
From what I've read its a higher volume pump. I plan on buying and installing one when I start freshening up my engine. As far as orings, since you are going to run twins I would do it since its apart. It might not be necessary but I like to go overkill when I have something apart.:st:
 
My machinist also didn't think I'd need the O-ring, I'm willing to listen to him for now.

24v oil pump? I havent heard anything about it. Whats it supposed to do for me? Just more reliable?

I listened when my machinist said don't o-ring. And ended up pulling the head off again the next year.
 
so he's just got to machine a groove for a wire? I can still use studs and a new stock headgasket?
 
Oops....wrong thread....good luck with build!
 
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Find a person or shop that has done O-ringing before on a cummins head.
Your machinist is not very knowledgeable on high performance diesels. If you keep listen to him you will make poor choices, that will cost you in the long run.
 
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