HE351VE on a 12 valve

Cummins Driver said:
I have heard from someone that the HE351cw would bolt up to a standard 4" HX40 downpipe. Did yours bolt right up, and not leak?

I sat an HX40 16cm exhaust housing outlet on top of my HE351 exhaust outlet, and it was just a little smaller than the HE351, but not much, so i was hoping i could get by with running my 4" downpipe that is already on the truck. I know my clamp will open up larger. This is good new for me if it will work:rockwoot:

Eric
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Yes it sealed up fine until my clamp broke.... The V part split down the middle because we didn't line things up right with the exhaust :bang

Gonna put stacks back in my truck soon so I'll fix it then, but yes. It worked fine even though the flange is a hair bigger than the HX40's
 
CSM diesel said:
I had a sudden epifanie over lunch on this matter....

Have a 4 port 3 way valve/solenoid to direct vacuum to the port that was driven by drive pressure. Suck that baby shut!

Yea?
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Hmmm yeah that would work. I can't find any holes in that plan.

EDIT: anybody else notice we have several "guests" viewing this thread? I also noticed one in my thread. Maybe word is getting out that this works :poke:
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Hmmm yeah that would work. I can't find any holes in that plan.

EDIT: anybody else notice we have several "guests" viewing this thread? I also noticed one in my thread. Maybe word is getting out that this works :poke:
Click to expand...

I noticed now. Hopefully it does get out. It would be nice to have electroncs to work these things so we dont have to 'make' it work. Lots of companies are saying there is no market....lol.....we will make the market......
 
I have been thinking too. Im thinking simple. A waste gate actuator to push the lever to move the veins, controlled off of drive pressure. A 'LIGHT' spring to pull it back. A round metal rod ground to a wedge ran through a cylinder (to keep it straight) controlled by a two way actuator (door lock motor) to either restrict the lever from coming all the way back to EB or pulling it out of the way to allow the lever to come all the way back. Mount everything to an aluminum plate that would fasten to the place that the original electronics were. Maybe hold the electronics off the plate on brass standoffs to keep everything cooler? What you guys think?
 
CSM diesel said:
I dont care who sees....

just as long as I get some credit LOL
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:hehe: HEY I deserve some too! But in all seriousness Aero needs the bulk of it... I stole the idea from him when he tried it on his tuner car.

aborgardt said:
I noticed now. Hopefully it does get out. It would be nice to have electroncs to work these things so we dont have to 'make' it work. Lots of companies are saying there is no market....lol.....we will make the market......
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It would be nice indeed to have the electronics work. But, I think the aftermarket is looking at it from the standpoint that these turbos are actually troublesome about sticking. Hence why we can pick them up so cheap...
 
Sounds good, might not need the return spring as the wastegate actuator has an internal spring to return the rod to original position
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
:hehe: HEY I deserve some too! But in all seriousness Aero needs the bulk of it... I stole the idea from him when he tried it on his tuner car.



It would be nice indeed to have the electronics work. But, I think the aftermarket is looking at it from the standpoint that these turbos are actually troublesome about sticking. Hence why we can pick them up so cheap...
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if the sticking issues with these turbos is like the 6.0s VGT then i dont see it as too much of a problem. it is pretty easy to clean the vanes to clear up sticking issues on a 6.0. with as much easier as it is to get a turbo out on a cummins, i think it will still be worth it.

Garrett
 
aborgardt said:
I have been thinking too. Im thinking simple. A waste gate actuator to push the lever to move the veins, controlled off of drive pressure. A 'LIGHT' spring to pull it back. A round metal rod ground to a wedge ran through a cylinder (to keep it straight) controlled by a two way actuator (door lock motor) to either restrict the lever from coming all the way back to EB or pulling it out of the way to allow the lever to come all the way back. Mount everything to an aluminum plate that would fasten to the place that the original electronics were. Maybe hold the electronics off the plate on brass standoffs to keep everything cooler? What you guys think?
Click to expand...

I've been thinking much the same thing.... Though Trapper came up with something interesting.

Trapper said:
Ya I was mixed up but I had a brain storm this time. Have my wastegate on the other side, and put it on a piviot that can be actuated for the exhaust brake?
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Use a solenoid to pivot the actuator mount changing how much it closes the housing. Or better yet a linear actuator of sorts that can be programmed for several different "steps" :poke:
 
SSpeeDEMONSS said:
if the sticking issues with these turbos is like the 6.0s VGT then i dont see it as too much of a problem. it is pretty easy to clean the vanes to clear up sticking issues on a 6.0. with as much easier as it is to get a turbo out on a cummins, i think it will still be worth it.

Garrett
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I've noticed two things that make them stick. One: the arm moving up and down making it harder to move back and forth. Two: the exhaust housing likes to try and rotate ever so slightly which binds the vanes. <- fixed vanes that slide in and out of a guide so if they're off just a little bit it binds.

Two simple solutions. One: a pin on the bottom side of the electronics box that runs the vanes that is precision machined to keep the arm from moving up and down. Two: a simple locating pin.

EDIT: At this rate of discussion we almost should have went into chat :hehe: But it is better to share with the class :poke:
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
I've noticed two things that make them stick. One: the arm moving up and down making it harder to move back and forth. Two: the exhaust housing likes to try and rotate ever so slightly which binds the vanes. <- fixed vanes that slide in and out of a guide so if they're off just a little bit it binds.

Two simple solutions. One: a pin on the bottom side of the electronics box that runs the vanes that is precision machined to keep the arm from moving up and down. Two: a simple locating pin.

EDIT: At this rate of discussion we almost should have went into chat :hehe: But it is better to share with the class :poke:
Click to expand...

the 6.0 VGT has a locating pin on the exhaust housing. theres only one way for it to go together.

as for the first problem, im sure that can get fixed too.

Garrett
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
:
It would be nice indeed to have the electronics work. But, I think the aftermarket is looking at it from the standpoint that these turbos are actually troublesome about sticking. Hence why we can pick them up so cheap...
Click to expand...

I think the troubles are not the turbo, but all the emissions and DPF and stuff.... lots of people saying they have no problems once the emissions are removed. But i dont know because i refuse to buy something that is not tried and true......
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Use a solenoid to pivot the actuator mount changing how much it closes the housing. Or better yet a linear actuator of sorts that can be programmed for several different "steps" :poke:
Click to expand...

Thought of something similar. a rheostat or 2 (drive pressure and one for apps) controlling a linear actuator. but to much work...lol
 
Yea, lets use a ACME threded rod attached to a traveling block on the pivot arm, attach the threded rod to a motor and hook it up for feedback with a magnetic encoder...... Then program all that with a processor with full PID control.....

LOL

I thought we were trying to get away from all this junk....

Remember the KISS method.... Keep is SIMPLE stupid
 
:lolly::hehe:

Thats why i through it out the window doing about 80. Ill never be able to find it again.....:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:
 
Here is a thought I had.
Couldn't you have the three way valve wired to a switch that would run drive pressure to the side that had boost pressure. That way you could use drive pressure asissted by a spring or vacumn to hold the vanes closed for the EB function. You would still have to have a spring return or other means to close the vanes down when you let off the throttle though.
 
kazairl said:
Here is a thought I had.
Couldn't you have the three way valve wired to a switch that would run drive pressure to the side that had boost pressure. That way you could use drive pressure asissted by a spring or vacumn to hold the vanes closed for the EB function. You would still have to have a spring return or other means to close the vanes down when you let off the throttle though.
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I might be wrong here but i dont think you have any drive pressure without boost pressure and vise versa. drive and boost pressure should be 1:1. That said, if you wanted to use drive pressure to perform that function, you would be able to use boost.

Someone correct me if im wrong please.

Keep the ideas rollin though.
 
OK,

I have found a little single acting cyl to act as the stop for the exhaust brake mode. Almost all single acting cyl's are pneumatic open, spring closure.

I will take the sucker apart and put the spring on the other side of the piston, making it a spring open, vacuum retraction.

Spring pushes against the lever holding it off the exhaust brake mode, and hit it with some vacuum to suck the rod in, activating the brake. The spring in the vacuum cyl must be stronger than the spring in the other cyl. I will accomplish this with a longer lever for the exhaust brake cyl.

clear as mud?
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
:hehe: HEY I deserve some too! But in all seriousness Aero needs the bulk of it... I stole the idea from him when he tried it on his tuner car.
Click to expand...

Hey! I don't know when all you guys started toying with VGTs but y'all are late to the scene...me and a friend pulled an all-nighter about 4 years ago and installed a HE431V on his '98 12 valve and it's been on ever since and works well...so now I'm just gonna give up! :bow: Good luck guys...keep toying around maybe someone will soon build a controller! :Cheer:
 
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