He531v

T

the dark one

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Dec 7, 2012
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Theres plenty written on here about the smaller Holset VGTs, but how about the larger variants...

My application is a dedicted competition puller; 6.6L, mechanical fuelling, 5k redline, single charger. I have a HE531V which I am going to use, and wondered if anyone had and experience or thoughts?

My main concern is suspending such a heavy lump (25kg) on an exhaust manifold!

Also, Im thinking about simple, reliable control, and am going to use a wastegate actuator controlled by intake boost. The initial position will be closed, and boost will open the vanes right up. I cant decide whether to set the actuator low (c.1bar) so that it opens quickly, or high (c. 3bar) so that it opens progressively... I would put screw stops at each end of the travel to give me the option to limit the vane transition.

My main aim is that the engine builds boost sooner,.so that I can lower the stall speed of my centrifugal clutch and keep the power flowing when she's dragged to her knees at the top end....
 
iirc 531 was a 71 ish inducer, that was gonna be my last resort if i couldnt get a 451, which ended up being a 400 with a 66 wheel on it :D

some guys do the spring method which has problems of barking the turbo from slamming shut, some do a wastegate which has tuning issues without some form of stop for closed and open.
 
why would you go by boost pressure btw, if you went by drive pressure the engine load will be monitored, you wont be getting boost in the higher load lower rpm range because the vanes are choking your motor. the engine needs to be your reference not your target boost.
 
BramanteCummins said:
why would you go by boost pressure btw, if you went by drive pressure the engine load will be monitored, you wont be getting boost in the higher load lower rpm range because the vanes are choking your motor. the engine needs to be your reference not your target boost.
Click to expand...


Now then... Its funny you should say that, as Ive been reading a bit about drive pressures on here, and wondered if this suggestion would come up....

In this case, would I set it so that the vanes were fully open at something like10-20% greater than target boost pressure? I suppose this would prevent the vanes slamming shut as the drive pressure would dampen them closing?

I like this idea :)

Thankyou
 
^^correct, it all depends on your setup. just toy with it till it works the way to want. as for the slamming shut im gonna run a dual port air cylinder and a valve to restrict air flow, itll slow the movement of air this slowing the cylinder and vanes.
 
A guy on here had a 551 on his CR controlled with a fleece controller but I don't know his name.
 
The 531 has a dinky compressor wheel....kinda thinking you'd want something more like the 551 at 71mm.
 
You ARE right, to be concerened about hanging that much more wieght off the manifold, but it wouldn't be that hard to fab an additional bracket that helps support the weight of the turbo, from either above or below the bigger turbo, depending on your set-up.
 
Im going to answer these out of order, but what the hey ;)

531 is what I have...

Fleece is good for tying into stock stuff, but I want a robust mechanical solution, as electronic controllers are not allowed...

I like the comment about never allowing it to go to 100%; thats given me food for thought...

Id considered suspending the turbo off its own cantilever, and running a light weight manifold to it...
 
Get a double acting cylinder run boost to one port and drive to the other port. You will have to put a spring in it so it will return the vanes to close position. My wastegate actuator isn't holding up on my 351 and if you use it put drive pressure to it. Look up Bimba air cylinders to see what I'm talking about and just buy the cheapest brand you can find.
 
Im wondering...

The actuator on mine has a very stiff return spring, but the actual vane movement requires little force to move...

When operating, how much force is required to move the vanes in and out? Some of the actuators Ive been seeing used on 351s, look large enough to lift the turbo up, let alone open the vanes...
 
the dark one said:
The actuator on mine has a very stiff return spring, but the actual vane movement requires little force to move.
Click to expand...

The pneumatic actuator uses the truck's 120psi air brake system modulated by an ECM controlled valve.
P1010928.jpg
 
wildman6bt said:
Get a double acting cylinder run boost to one port and drive to the other port. You will have to put a spring in it so it will return the vanes to close position. My wastegate actuator isn't holding up on my 351 and if you use it put drive pressure to it. Look up Bimba air cylinders to see what I'm talking about and just buy the cheapest brand you can find.
Click to expand...


I've always like this way as it seems it gives a more steady load controlled setup.

But is it possible to use the air cylinder setup and still be able to use the Exhaust brake function?

If so, how?
 
An electric linear actuator. Just set it to literally push to arm closed, you'd need to come up with a way to make a closed position that will give out with X amount of pressure applied to it
 
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