Head Stud Questions

CLINT_FX4_TxBoy

CLINT_FX4_TxBoy

New to the Dark Side
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
592
I was wondering if I could get a few responses on how hard a head stud install is and how much insurance it offers to keep from blowing a head gasket if im only going to run a tuner and plan on speeding quite a bit...Haha
 
It deppends on how you want to do it. Pull the Cab. Pull the Motor. or Do it with the motor in. By far the easiest is to pull the cab. Studs help out a bunch keeping the head in place. But they won't help you if you are doing sustained high speed runs. The motor will eventually overheat and when that happens it won't matter what you did to it.
 
Doug by sustained high speed runs. you mean sustained high temps during the run correct? I am pretty sure that I popped the oil cooler running down I-75 at about 120 or 130 for a few miles chasing a cutie in a civic. my egts were never over like 1250 or so. Do you think that will be a prob with the studs and egr delete? its pretty common for me to do this a few times a week. I have 40s with the stock 3.73s and rpms are quite low at 100 or so. is it the sustained egts that you were meaning? I thought 1300 or less should be okay? thanks!
 
Well the thing is, I hear that a head gasket replacement was $4,000 due to the fact it took so many man hours because they had to take the cab off to get to it. Therefore I was hoping that head studs would be a cheap type of insurance from running into this problem but if i had to get the cab taken off to have them installed wouldnt that be kinda pointless. Maybe i heard wrong on the price or why that was the price. I was also told that most Head Gaskets blow on stock trucks before 100,000 or something like that and im at 140,000m currently and no ford dealership replaced it while it was under warranty. As far as I know the stock one is still on and good to go. She was a fleet truck and I felt I got her pretty cheap, not to mention its a diesel so the miles didnt bother me. Plus I dont know many people who at the age of 19 have a truck like mine. What can I say I'm in love! Haha
 
sorry to hijack your thread but..you going to school at tx state?
 
BIG JUICE said:
Doug by sustained high speed runs. you mean sustained high temps during the run correct? I am pretty sure that I popped the oil cooler running down I-75 at about 120 or 130 for a few miles chasing a cutie in a civic. my egts were never over like 1250 or so. Do you think that will be a prob with the studs and egr delete? its pretty common for me to do this a few times a week. I have 40s with the stock 3.73s and rpms are quite low at 100 or so. is it the sustained egts that you were meaning? I thought 1300 or less should be okay? thanks!
Click to expand...

Oil and coolant temps. You will see coolant and oil start going up and up. Once the coolant starts getting hot, it can't get rid of the oil heat from the cooler. They both start moving up together. Being in it to win it at 130 for 10 minutes and you will be replacing something.
 
A big oil to air would help out, but I wonder how fast you can pull heat from the coolant as well. 4,000rpm lots of things start getting really warm in there.
 
hell man I'm prob only at like 3000 or so at well over 100. I guess all that heat just starts building up like you say. I'm still interested in adding an additional oil cooler. I'd rather give you my $ doug then them guys at delite
 
I would imagine without the hot egr gases being cooking the coolant the oil cooler supplemented by an additional air to oil cooler would get quite a bit of heat out of the oil.

does anybody know how to get the oil temp reading for my quadzilla monitor? I would like to keep an eye on them before the egr cooler delete next week and after
 
The Commander will do EOT but you have to wire it to the sensor just you did for the coolant temp. You just swap the coolant temp wire over to the oil sensor, it can't read both at the same time.
 
Well, that just sucks. I would have figured that it could accept a couple of different inputs. I can't even hook up a fuel pressure sender. Because they don't have one that works yet! I tried to get the old sender and that didn't work as no one had one. So I'm still wondering why this fancy thing can't do everything it should? I would like to watch these oil and coolant temps at the same time. if I get an autometer do I need a sender for the oil temp or just connect to the leads already there?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top