Help a new 1st gen owner rebuild his cummins E350 van

rebar

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Iv got Geno's shop manual on CD and started removing the front end and intake last night.. But wondering if I would be better to remove the head from the inside of the van.

Had to flatten all four tires just to drive the van in the garage, and with only 15 psi back in, the van's barely touching the door. Not sure what Im going to do if and when the block comes out and the suspension tries to push the van higher. Can I strap, compress, the suspension down to prevent that?

Anyway, even if I don't get many answers here.. This thread will show what it took me to rebuild a 1990 IC 12 valve in a 95 E350 cargo.

I'm hoping my blow-by is caused by a head gasket failure, so maybe we wont see a complete rebuild.. But more than likely, I destroyed a piston or cylinder lugging a 8000 lb toyhauler to Colorado in fifth. I had 4 inch's of throttle left most of the time driving, but my post egt's jumped up to 900 real quick and I used the egt's to maintain 65 mph.

Lots of pics to come. If this rebuild is successful, the van will be converted to 4x4 on 35's, new paint etc..

Does this forum require a minimum of posts before picture links work? Or did I pick the wrong type of link?

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It looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. I doubt your blow-by is caused by the head gasket. Seemed to run fine in the in the videos so maybe you will only have to hone and re-ring the pistons. Might as well just get a rebuild kit and do it right once. When I blew the motor in my 89; it ran way worse and I lost nearly all the oil. I'm pretty sure I didn't damage any cylinders because the guy who bought the motor sent me a text thanking me a few months later.

the pictures work when I click the links.

You could probably chain the suspension down with some binders or get some heavy duty straps. I'd put the whole thing on jackstands with the wheels off and as close to the floor as you can get it once you get the motor ready to come out.
 
I'm willing to bet the pyro probe placement caused all your problems. It really needs to be in the manifold, not 12" behind the turbo. You also need either less fuel or a better intake, exhaust, and turbo to achieve your towing goals.
 
I'm willing to bet the pyro probe placement caused all your problems. It really needs to be in the manifold, not 12" behind the turbo. You also need either less fuel or a better intake, exhaust, and turbo to achieve your towing goals.

Agreed.. But as far as better intake, exhaust, and turbo..(not doing less fuel) I not sure how to best achieve that.. My H1C is good, no oil in the intake and I cant feel any play at all, spins nice.. so it stays. Intercooler/rubber couplers looked good and clean but old. No obvious intake leaks. I read one situation where a guy enlarged his exhaust, but made egt's even higher. ?

Water/meth injection is the only way Iv come up with to control egt's, but I doubt water/meth would cool down my egt's enough for me to safely use 5th towing.. Not sure. But when pulling, it seemed like when I got over the hump of 75 mph after the sun went down, the rpms kept the egt's reasonable. Maybe water/meth would be enough?


[ame]http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/Van/035DC685-330C-4A0C-93D1-6F48F4F59345-253-0000001B797ED617_zps683cb699.jpg[/ame]

Iv been wondering if I could fit a compound setup if I remove my A/C and install a roof A/C.
Do any twin setups use one H1C in combination with another turbo?

[ame]http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/Van/EAD4B72D-425D-4EC6-9F7B-7F61A5A8FB50-253-0000000DF1786816_zps21526a6d.jpg[/ame]

And now looking at my VE pump.. I wonder weather a P-pump would fit.

[ame]http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/Van/71D315DD-8B3D-42A3-8ED0-04E0880690BD-253-0000001B8154DFC6_zps34223981.jpg[/ame]
[ame]http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/re-rod/Van/A010CE74-10D1-4038-A91B-62BB6369178F-253-0000001B85B51A07_zpsc64b96aa.jpg[/ame]
 
Slap a 60mm compressor,16 cm housing, some pump tuning and go from there. With my setup I can run whatever speed I want but what ends up limiting me is coolant and transmission temps in really hot weather. My cooling system cant dissipate the heat from 1200f continuous egt and the transmission cant take the torque in 5th.
 
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Slap a 60mm compressor,16 cm housing, some pump tuning and go from there. With my setup I can run whatever speed I want but what ends up limiting me is coolant and transmission temps in really hot weather. My cooling system cant dissipate the heat from 1200f continuous egt and the transmission cant take the torque in 5th.

Thanks.

So which turbo are you talking about exactly White?

I was told to replace my H1C with a HX35. But my H1C is so close to the engine tunnel in the van I'm wondering if the waste gate would hit. The turbo and manifold had to come out together because I couldn't get the turbo off the studs because lack of space.

[ame="http://s640.photobucket.com/user/re-rod/media/Van/035DC685-330C-4A0C-93D1-6F48F4F59345-253-0000001B797ED617_zps683cb699.jpg.html"]035DC685-330C-4A0C-93D1-6F48F4F59345-253-0000001B797ED617_zps683cb699.jpg Photo by re-rod | Photobucket[/ame]
 
I think the 12cm housing on the hx would be a choking point at highway speed if you have 4.56 gears(think that's what I read). The 56mm comp wheel isn't much of an up grade either. I would also fab up a better intake elbow. The stock 1st gen one is a joke IMO.
 
OK. Iv got a question about checking the timing before I remove anything..

Iv located, pushed TDC pin in and pulled out..

But I was told the IP has a cap you can remove and see a blade on the shaft.

Where is that on my VE pump? I removed the lock screw, but see a smooth shaft. No blade or mark.

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