Help cutting front coils

Front is on the ground. Bilstein 5100’s on the way. Just painted the tower deletes. I’m real satisfied with the height. Just gotta get my new 285’s on the 3rd gen wheels.

U bolts, 1” blocks and caltracs on the way for the rear. Eliminating all but top two leafs.

I drug the Dana 60 about 30’ across my yard to the shop and bout died. That sob is heavy.

Here’s some pics so far.
 

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I’m completely unimpressed with the Mac Auto control arms. First of all the ones listed for a 94-99 came with 14mm bolt holes top and bottom. The sleeves on the uppers are half the thickness of OE. I said to hell with returning them and drilled the upper mounts out to 9/16 after buying a 90° attachment. (Drill won’t fit next to cab mount).

Bought aftermarket grade 10.9 bolts from another company. They are undersized. So the bolts fit loose in the bushings and even looser in the frame/axle. I tried some grade 8 9/16 bolts and they fit much better.

To add, I was burning up $15 carbide sawzall blades trying to cut the bolts out before the swap (all were seized). Finally got a 7” cut off wheel, took the guard off my angle grinder and looked at my fingers like it was the last time. The cut off wheel made quick work of it.

Hopefully it handles well and holds an alignment with the grade 8 bolts fitting better. Going to antiseize the hell out of them.
 
Looks good! About the same height as my stock 2wd, easy to get into.

Thanks and you ain’t lying. My interior is actually pretty nice in this truck so I’m excited to not mess my seat up.

Mostly excited to see how it rides. It was horrible before.
 
Any updates on this? Getting ready to chop mine down and also plan on going with 285s
 
Front rides excellent now. No bottoming out. Gotta put some more caster in the arms, but otherwise I’m happy with it.

Caltracs should be here Monday. This weekend I’m going to drop the fuel tank and remove the leaf springs. Going to run 2 long leafs, 1” block and Caltracs.

I can’t remember the measurements off hand but I think 5” lower in the rear and it should sit level.

Rear ends on these trucks have a 3/4” center pin. Blocks were not easy to find and if you buy off the average website you gonna get some shit that says it will fit and it will not be correct. I’ll list the website I used later on.
 
If I didn’t mention it, I used bilstein 5100 up front and the yellow and blue bilstein in the rear. They are supposedly valved lighter and I think that should work well out back. I used 2wd length shocks from Genos.
 
Nothing special to show right now but I’ll post some of what I got going for now. Working alone today but trying to get it done. Tank dropped, leaf springs removed and reduced to two leaf. Turned some 1/2 x 2 bolts into center pins. After the ribs come off the smoker I’m going to see how I go about removing the front bushing in the springs to put the solid bushing in for the caltracs.

I must say, I am astounded at how easy this thing came apart. If you’ve ever removed a bolt from a leaf spring bushing that’s been in for 20+ years you know it takes heat and a saw usually.
 

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Them ribs look mighty fine. Be interested to see how your driveline does that low
 
So the previous owner swapped in a D80 and didn’t shorten the driveshaft. Didn’t use d80 top or bottom plates with the u bolts either. Shaft got shortened 2.5” (1” needed for D80 to begin with and another 1.5” should be plenty of room for the 4 5/8” lower in the rear. It should be the same height as a 2wd in the rear.

I found some D80 top plates on eBay and the caltracs take care of the bottom.
 
I’m having deja vu. Literally just did this with my Jeep haha.

I did not want to take the springs off and take them to work to press the bushing out so I used a torch to soften it up then use a drill and bit to get it out. Maybe I can a big c clamp or ball joint tool to get the solid bushing in.
 

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Picked up my driveshaft today but I haven’t had a chance to test fit it.

Here’s the difference between the top plates. D80 vs D70. So swapping these axles was planned as a gear change from 4.10’s to 3.55’s, but I have decided to keep the Dana 80 in the rear and just Regear it. Will be getting rid of the lunchbox locker and going factory LSD with some new 3.55 r&p.
 

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Picked up my driveshaft today but I haven’t had a chance to test fit it.

Here’s the difference between the top plates. D80 vs D70. So swapping these axles was planned as a gear change from 4.10’s to 3.55’s, but I have decided to keep the Dana 80 in the rear and just Regear it. Will be getting rid of the lunchbox locker and going factory LSD with some new 3.55 r&p.

A good ol' lunchbox locker will work its tail off and just about keep up with the big boys. I ran a lockrite in a D60 high pinion turning 40's. It was always there when called upon.
 
Oh it works no doubt. It just doesn’t unlock for shit so chews tires up And getting on and off the throttle while taking a curve on the highway is just weird. The main reason is having the carrier break and me needing a new carrier for 3.55’s. Otherwise I’d just swap the gears.
 
Got this thing buttoned up over the weekend. It was all fairly simple other than putting the fuel tank back in by myself. Every time I would lean a certain direction all the fuel would slosh to that side and jerk a knot in my ass.

I used a ball joint press to get the aluminum bushings in the front eye of the leaf spring. It rides quiet and smooth and no longer needs 4x4 to make it up my driveway. I’m riding on mismatch tires until I can make it to the store to get my new 285s put on. I’ll post some good before and after pics then.
 

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Had to throw a butt pic in for the fat boys haha
 

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