Help, Making Traction Bars

[mzcummins]

Hey guys, I need traction bars but cant see spending $500 + on them, my buddy made some for his d-max for a little over $100 so we are going to fab up some for me, was wanting to get your input and maybe see some pics of homemade or aftermarket, also if I could get what you used, lenght, thickness, etc.

Thanks, Matt

 

[DIRT PRO]

Call me when you get time I can tell you how to make "budget bars" they are a breeze to make as long as you can weld. They work just as good as the $500 units, I make them for garmons diesel on a regurlar basis and yet to have a complaint.
Matt

 

[morkable]

Matt, could you provide that info to me also... maybe a couple of pics? I am looking for a drag bar, I dont want the real long length, as I dont want to lift any weight off of the front for drag racing

kevin

 

[mzcummins]

Thanks, I will give you a call in the A.M. to get some info

Thanks Again, Matt

 

[DIRT PRO]

Not a problem i will get some pics posted up asap

 

[DIRT PRO]

Well im tring to get these pics posted up, but how do i insert a picture in the post?

 

[DIRT PRO]

Bump

 

[morkable]

the best way is to get a photobucket account, it is free www.photobucket.com post them on there, and then put the link in here

Kevin

 

[DIRT PRO]

http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww76/DirtPro77/Dec17_0001.jpg this is where to mount the front of the bar on the rear of the front spring hanger
http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww76/DirtPro77/Dec17_0002.jpg this is where you mount the rear of the bar on top of the "u" bolt cap
http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww76/DirtPro77/Dec17_0003.jpg front hanger without bar in place
You will need to make tabs that will sandwich the bars heim joints and weld them to their respective locations, you can use alum. rods with sperical heim joints as long as they are 3/4'' or bigger (more expensive) or you can go to your local tractor suppply and get the 3rd member adjuster (top link on a bush hog) these are a lesser quality but they are plenty strong enough and thy can be baught for around $30.00 for the complete unit. with either one you choose keep the bar level with the chassis so there isnt any binding if the suspension is articulated. If this dosent answer all your questions dont hesitate to call!
Matt

 

[Johan]

 

[cumminsbomber21]

doesnt mounting the link on top of the spring kind of defeat the purpose? it would help with keeping the front half of the spring in shape but it wont do much for axlewrap. for best results mount the bar on the bottom of the axle with a long link going up to the frame.

 

[DIRT PRO]

Like I said this is the "budget bar" is not your perfect setup, But if the top dosent move much how can the bottom its better than stock

 

[Baylor5.9]

contact Farmboy fabrications on here he is a site sponsor. He makes some nice bars.

 

[Mr.Diesel]

Like I said this is the "budget bar" is not your perfect setup, But if the top dosent move much how can the bottom its better than stock

Exactly...there is always a compramise. The lower it's mounted on the axle the better to controll wrap. But more angle means more suspension 'bind' (which pullers probably don't mind). Mount em low and long, but then you get into more $$ for steel when they get 6+ feet long. It's all what you want for your own truck in the end. Here is a pic of ULTRA budget bars, really just for the looks...they are mounted under the axle to the u bolt plates, and are 5' long...