help...rear power locks are dead...

C

cquestad

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Oct 17, 2007
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I have a new master switch panel in the drivers door and new power control module under the hood...but my rear door power locks are still dead? Drivers side went first...then the other a few months later...truck is an 04 with 200k.

Tired of buying crap....so you think its a lock solienod?

Thanks
 
I would wonder if you would have to do some programming..

but aside from that, door locks typically all go out at the same time.
 
take drivers door panel off, unplug connectors to electrical switch in arm rest, check for evidence of a bad connection visually, look for signs of darkening. These things are notorious for having trouble, only one ground for everything and as it gets loose, it creates a mess and poor flow. Fix? electrical parts cleaner spray and bend the tabs that hold the wire inwards to make a better connection.
 
Just went through this with my truck. Ended up being the wires in the door jam. Out of the 7 or 8 wires that went through that door jam, 3 were completely broken apart, and 2 were on their way to breaking apart (wire was exposed where the bending had been taking place).

Pulled it apart, soldered and heat shrunk everything, and it's been fine since. I'm sure it won't take long for the soldered joints to fail, though, and I'll be replacing the harness next time.
 
I put a tester on the plug at th acuator....no readjing on anywire for lock....a reading for unlock around 10 volts on the brown wire....hmmmmm.

The weird thing is that if I lock the door manually....it will not unlock at the switch?

How does the harness at the door come out of the b pillar or door? It was a sob to reach in and unplug the actuator.
 
cquestad said:
I put a tester on the plug at th acuator....no readjing on anywire for lock....a reading for unlock around 10 volts on the brown wire....hmmmmm.

The weird thing is that if I lock the door manually....it will not unlock at the switch?

How does the harness at the door come out of the b pillar or door? It was a sob to reach in and unplug the actuator.
Click to expand...

Remove the B-Pillar trim, disconnect the chassis harness at the B-Pillar, and you'll find a couple of tabs that need to be depressed for the connector to come out of the B-Pillar itself. Then, disconnect everything from the electronics inside the door (you have to remove the door panel and plastic to get in there, obviously), and the harness bulk-head slides inside the door, and comes out the opening where you were reaching inside.

Kind of a pain to reach everything. But certainly not the worst I've ever dealt with.

And the voltage readings were the same on my truck. I would get a voltage signal for unlock, but not for lock. However, the same thing happened on mine. Even locking it manually, the solenoid wouldn't unlock it with the fob. Kind of weird, but I chalked it up to my lack of understanding on how the solenoid electronics may function.
 
This was the case on my 2003, and a 2004 I looked at. My buddies 03 also has the issue. Hope ya get her ironed out!
 
Wires for both? Uggggg....think I might take 12v to the wire close to the acuator to see if I can make it work prior to ripping the entire harness out. Might as well add some mid bass to the doors while I have them apart.
 
sheesh, this crap happened to me today, guess Ill be busy tomorrow, too dark to work on it now. son of a ....
 
well I got lucky, just as I was starting to tear into this repair I decided to check fuses and relays one last time, # 9 half inch square shaped 40 amp fuse blown, swapped with the fuel heater one since I deleted that whole stock filter setup and whatya know, power windows........ phew. might rain overnight buy no worries now.
 
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