HELP: Truck Wont Start After Pretty Big Upgrades

[EverydayDiesel]

Hello,

I put the following things on the truck.
1. GDP intake horn
2. Hamliton springs
3. Hamilton push rods
4. ARP 625 studs
5. Firepunk compounds.

Originally I went to start the truck and it would run but sounded strange, like the timing was off. I then realized that I forgot to plug in the air temp sensor and (what I think) is the maf.

After plugging in those two sensors and cranking again, the truck ran better and sounded better for about 2-3 seconds and then stumbled and died.

Then I used efi live to remove the factory VGT since it was the only code that I had.

I cleared the codes and tried again but the same result. The motor is shaking alot and puffs of grey smoke is coming out of the tail pipe. The motor turns over but the engine never fires. After it is done I go back to the tail pipe and I can see white smoke coming out.

Please help!

 

[YoungDiesel27]

Check valve lash?

 

[EverydayDiesel]

I adjusted for .010 / .020
but the weird thing is that I had to back off every one of the rockers when I adjusted them. I thought it was because of the new springs making things taller? The push rods were the same length as factory.

I also had to remove the injectors to install the new springs. I made very sure that each of the injector holes were orientated towards the feed tube and that the feed tube 'clicked' into place. tube nuts were torqued to 37 flbs except for the back one that I had to guestimate

 

[crpower]

Did you log anything (via EFI) while its idling weird?

 

[EverydayDiesel]

It wont idle anymore, it just sits there and cranks but never fires.



well I went out to check the valves and i found this which is very strange. The oil is brand new rotella.

This is very strange, I just replaced one bolt at a time when I did the studs. I never took the head gasket off.
At the moment I dont have antifreeze in the radiator, I just filled it with water to check for leaks.

I also did a fleece coolant bypass on this truck also

 

[mikmaze]

water line hooked to supply oil to turbo>?

 

[EverydayDiesel]

Both of these should be oil right?

 

[BRE]

Re do the tubes the right way... just torquing them to spec isn't correct. I'll almost promise you, they aren't seated correctly.

 

[EverydayDiesel]

Re do the tubes the right way... just torquing them to spec isn't correct. I'll almost promise you, they aren't seated correctly.

Are you talking about the injector feed tube nuts? Will this cause the milky white oil? I torqued the injector feed tube nuts down to 37lbs

 

[BRE]

Are you talking about the injector feed tube nuts? Will this cause the milky white oil? I torqued the injector feed tube nuts down to 37lbs

The oil I wouldn't think so... the correct way to tighten the feed tubes is like a 4 step process that involves having the injector loose as well.

 

[EverydayDiesel]

well right now I am trying to figure out why
1. it was running for a few seconds, then stopped
2. now it fires but wont crank
3. why do I have this milky stuff in the oil?

i did not have a hg problem before i installed all this stuff.

 

[BRE]

I'm trying to tell you your only running for a few seconds, is very possible to be the connecting tubes not seated correctly.

 

[EverydayDiesel]

when I put in the injectors, i made sure the hole was towards the driverside/rear. I also made sure that each of the injector tubes 'popped' into place with the black piece pointed up. Then i torqued the nuts down to 37 lbs. I think the milky oil is a big clue to what is going on. I just changed the oil just minutes before this happened.

 

[BRE]

Ok let me put this as simple as I can, so not to repeat myself anymore. YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG!!!!

 

[EverydayDiesel]

thanks for telling me i am doing it wrong. how do i do it right?

and can the oil be milky from not following this?
a. Install fuel injector hold down clamp (mounting flange) bolts. Be sure the clamp is
perpendicular to the injector body. Do a preliminary tightening of these bolts to
44 in/lbs torque. This preliminary tightening insures the fuel injector is
seated and centered.
b. After tightening, relieve bolt torque, but leave both bolts threaded in place.
c. Install crossover tube and retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 11 ft/lbs torque.
d. Alternately tighten injector hold down bolts to 71 in/lbs torque.
e. Do a final tightening of the crossover tube nut. Tighten to 37 ft/lbs torque.

 

[f6jbob]

T & C Diesel has a step by step description for removing-replacing injectors. Take a peek and see if thats how you did it.:Cheer:

 

[EverydayDiesel]

T & C Diesel has a step by step description for removing-replacing injectors. Take a peek and see if thats how you did it.:Cheer:

thank you for the reply.

no i just installed the injector, then feed tube and made sure that they popped into place, then torqued the feed tube nuts to 37lbs.
i could go back and redo the injectors if we thought this was the cause of the oil being milky. if it is not possible then i am afraid that I have bigger problems and will pull the motor to do rods. (not the timing that I want but.....at this point what choice do i have)

 

[homewrecker]

Ok let me put this as simple as I can, so not to repeat myself anymore. YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG!!!!

I think he is more concerned about the chocolate milk oil! And I don't blame him


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EverydayDiesel]

I think he is more concerned about the chocolate milk oil! And I don't blame him


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

right, maybe the injectors are wrong but i think there might be a bigger issue here. Can tightening head studs cause a gasket to fail?

this is how I did the head studs ( i never remove the head)

one at a time in sequence to factory spec
then in sequence I did 15+ increments one at a time in sequence until they were all 160.
then once they were all 160 I loosened them one at a time, (one by one) in sequence, and retorqued them to 160 for a total of 3 passes

i never had more then a single bolt/stud out or loose at any given time.

 

[ndaniels]

right, maybe the injectors are wrong but i think there might be a bigger issue here. Can tightening head studs cause a gasket to fail?

this is how I did the head studs ( i never remove the head)

one at a time in sequence to factory spec
then in sequence I did 15+ increments one at a time in sequence until they were all 160.
then once they were all 160 I loosened them one at a time, (one by one) in sequence, and retorqued them to 160 for a total of 3 passes

i never had more then a single bolt/stud out or loose at any given time.

That's how I did mine, except I re-torqued them 4 times total. I can't see a problem there.

Edit: also I had the same thing with pushrods- they have to be just a hair longer than factory because I had to back off rockers as well to get lash set correctly. Oh, and I set them the same as you.