Help With Rotating Assembly

EverydayDiesel

EverydayDiesel

I drink diesel
Joined
Feb 12, 2016
Messages
196
Hello,

I had a head gasket go south and I decided to upgrade the rods while the truck was down. Carrillo rods with carr bolts just showed up in the mail and I plan on getting new bearings, hamilton 188/220 cam, new oil pump, rings, coated pistons and a girdle at the minimum.

I have no experience working on rotating assemblies so I feel I am at least entitled to some dumb questions. So for those of you that have experience doing this please chime in.

The truck has 121,000 miles on it.

Should I
Plan A
1. Replace the rods only
2. Have the head flattened
3. Have head o-ringed

Plan B
1. Dissemble the block and have it checked
2. Top of block flattened
3. Bottom of head flattened
4. Have head o-ringed

Plan C
1. I am open to suggestions


Here is the block as it sits
20161010_161950.jpg


I am open to any advice/experience you can give me.

Are plasti-gages ok to use for this build?
Should I buy a fowler cylinder bore gauge?

Build goals.
1. Daily Driver
2. 8-900 RELIABLE horse power
3. 4000 rpm, its a daily driver street truck so I have no need to spin the crap out of the motor

Thanks in advance on any advice you can give me.
 
I would go with B.
I would also have end caps on new rods ground for clearance, .015 on
each side.
 
Isn't "plan b" birth control? I definitely vote plan b for you. I would want the block honed with a deck plate, even tough it's not really necessary with your low miles.
 
will a machine shop 'blue print' everything and tell me what size bearings to buy? The more I read about all the different micrometers the less I really want to get into that.
 
EverydayDiesel said:
will a machine shop 'blue print' everything and tell me what size bearings to buy? The more I read about all the different micrometers the less I really want to get into that.
Click to expand...

Yes any decent machine shop can blueprint the engine for you
 
Do you Cummins guys recommend balancing the rotating assembly like we in the Dmax world do? If so, thats one thing I would add to any of those three lists....
 
TheBac said:
Do you Cummins guys recommend balancing the rotating assembly like we in the Dmax world do? If so, thats one thing I would add to any of those three lists....
Click to expand...
I've wondered how much effort is put in to this. I know we had the European guy cut his crank throws completely off. I think maybe he passed away.

Sent from my Moto X using Tapatalk
 
TheBac said:
Do you Cummins guys recommend balancing the rotating assembly like we in the Dmax world do? If so, thats one thing I would add to any of those three lists....
Click to expand...

It is not as critical because the cummins is inline. I will still have mine done because I have the mentality of do it once, do it right.
 
The Cummins is a fairly off balance engine in stock form. Especially in the 12V world. There are mixed matched rods in many of these engines, and I've seen Cummins Reman engines with different bore sizes mixed. Considering the fact that these tanks were engineered to make peak power under 2000 rpm. Who cares.

That being said. Balance it out. It makes a difference.
 
Snedge said:
The Cummins is a fairly off balance engine in stock form. Especially in the 12V world. There are mixed matched rods in many of these engines, and I've seen Cummins Reman engines with different bore sizes mixed. Considering the fact that these tanks were engineered to make peak power under 2000 rpm. Who cares.

That being said. Balance it out. It makes a difference.
Click to expand...

Thats kinda what I figured. Since EDD is probably not going to keep it under 2000rpm, I thought it would be a good idea. I very much respect your opinion.
 
Where and how do you go about getting an rotating assembly balanced?? I am familiar with getting all the weights the same in the Pistons and rods and stuff, but not balanced rotating assembly.
 
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