Hot Lash, Cold Lash, and Valve Growth/Lash Changes???

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
This is a subject i've been interested on as of late given some reports of quicker spool by tightenin the exhaust lash which would add some duration and lift to the valve lift profile. I've been told that lash decreases in a diesel as they warm due to the valves getting hot. This idea is further reinforced by cummins requiring more lash on the exhaust valve which should in theory expand more given it's subject to more heat assuming the intake and exhaust valves are the same material.

For my own curiousity I checked my hot lash vs. my cold lash a few days ago and plan to follow up with additional checks on the rear cylinders (4 and 6) of the motor. This is what I found quoted from a reply I posted in Hammilton's sponsor section of this forum:

"I spot checked number one immediately after a 30 minute drive at 70 mph with multiple runs to 15 psi boost and 1100 max egts (did let truck cool down to 350 or so before shutting off as always). Intake was surprisingly about .002" tighter than the .009" I set it at cold and the exhaust was surprisingly looser at about .002" more than .020" I set it at cold. This suggests to me (would spot check other cylinders before drawing a conclusion) that tightening down the exhaust .010" on a stock cam would be fine."

This was the inverse of what I expected. A few possibilities exist for this observation and one variable I want to rule out is variation across other cylinders. As stated I plan to check more cylinders.

Now, check this out. This is Crane Cam's suggestion for adjusting their provided hot lash spec to cold lash:

CraneCams

Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash
When installing a new cam, the engine will be cold but the lash specifications are for a hot engine. What are you to do? There is a correction factor that can be used to get close. We mentioned that the alloy of the engine parts can be affected by thermal expansion in different ways, therefore the amount of correction factor to the lash setting depends on whether the cylinder heads and block is made out of cast iron or aluminum. You can take the ?hot? setting given to you in the catalog or cam specification card and alter it by the following amount to get a ?cold? lash setting.


Iron Block Iron Heads Add .002"
Iron Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .006"
Aluminum Block Aluminum Heads Subtract .012"

They suggest Iron block and head combinations shrink only a tiny .002" when hot according to the above table. They support the idea that lash shrinks in an iron head/block combination although my findings showed differently (subject to change with additional checks on additional cylinders).

I'm curious, has anyone else bothered to check cold vs. hot lash on their motors?

If we're truly talking such small differences than does anyone have any idea on why they require so much more exhaust lash? Are the factory cam's lash ramps big and slow to promote long valve train life which by tightening the lash past recommended would serve to introduce tons of ultra low lift duration? Do the valves contract and expand alot quicker than my hot lash test revealed?

Thoughts?
 
I have done a lot of testing on the dyno with different grinds and different lash settings. Although it is hotter than hell, I have changed lash settings after 6 or 8 hard pulls on the dyno with no time to cool off. I have seen up to 4 thousandths less lash on the exhaust. I have been told on the newer CR exhaust valves, the alloy was picked not for it's high temperature strength but for it's high temperature stability as it refers to keeping it's shape whereas other alloys "grow" a bit more.
 
I have done a lot of testing on the dyno with different grinds and different lash settings. Although it is hotter than hell, I have changed lash settings after 6 or 8 hard pulls on the dyno with no time to cool off. I have seen up to 4 thousandths less lash on the exhaust. I have been told on the newer CR exhaust valves, the alloy was picked not for it's high temperature strength but for it's high temperature stability as it refers to keeping it's shape whereas other alloys "grow" a bit more.

Zach, I was hoping you'd chime in! Thanks.

Any idea regarding the large lash figures the factory wants you to run on factory exhaust lobes? Think it has anything to do with the fact that it isn't exactly a race motor in cummins' eyes and is meant to stay at that lash (within the acceptable range) for 150k?
 
I will likely pull my valve covers tonight, measure a few more cylinders while still hot, and tighten atleast the exhaust down some if not the intake as well before work tomorrow morning.
 
Maybe it depends on the engine, but I know we had a 855 cummins that had tight valve, and it was enough to miss when it was cold, as the engine expanded...(think tall block) there was enough lash and the miss would go away.
 
This could be usefull.

I have not thought about this untill now, I know the ex and in valves are made of differant materials. I am now running all Ex valves since I had valve seats put in. Should I be running a differant lash since im using the ex valves instead of intake valves?
 
This could be usefull.

I have not thought about this untill now, I know the ex and in valves are made of differant materials. I am now running all Ex valves since I had valve seats put in. Should I be running a differant lash since im using the ex valves instead of intake valves?

Good question! Given my small example I don't think so but those with more experience with expansion rates of the different valves would be better to ask.

I think the best way to tell in your case would be to do just what I did, check what your lash is doing cold vs. hot then draw your conclusions.
 
Maybe it depends on the engine, but I know we had a 855 cummins that had tight valve, and it was enough to miss when it was cold, as the engine expanded...(think tall block) there was enough lash and the miss would go away.

Makes perfect sense. My valve train experience has been mostly with an aluminum block/head ls1 so I was always used to expansion as the motor gets to running temps which is similar to what you've given an example of.
 
I will likely pull my valve covers tonight, measure a few more cylinders while still hot, and tighten atleast the exhaust down some if not the intake as well before work tomorrow morning.

Pulled all the valve covers tonight and checked lash. Virtually no change (within .002" on all valves). Going to tighten up tomorrow and thinking .006"/.011" int/exh.
 
I have been running at .008 and .018 instead of .010 and .020 for a good while now. Not sure that it helps much, but as long as the valves arent slapping the pistons, I dont figure it could hurt.

Eric
 
I have done a lot of testing on the dyno with different grinds and different lash settings. Although it is hotter than hell, I have changed lash settings after 6 or 8 hard pulls on the dyno with no time to cool off. I have seen up to 4 thousandths less lash on the exhaust. I have been told on the newer CR exhaust valves, the alloy was picked not for it's high temperature strength but for it's high temperature stability as it refers to keeping it's shape whereas other alloys "grow" a bit more.

I don't think their stability is very good either. It may not have grown but, it sure stretched ! It's an exhaust valve and lash was .10/.20. Helix II cam with your springs. Not pointing fingers... just relaying what I have. I think heat got to it.

valve.jpg
 
I guess Im gonna have to try it myself.


NickTF is seeing .002 more on EX
Zack is seeing .004 less on EX


Im gonna set all at .010 and see what happens. I've been running .010 with the EX valves on the intake side.
 
The exhaust valves' larger & wider lash spec helps ensure that they seat well no matter the operating temperature - seat contact dwell is the primary path of heat transfer to the cylinder head.
 
The exhaust valves' larger & wider lash spec helps ensure that they seat well no matter the operating temperature - seat contact dwell is the primary path of heat transfer to the cylinder head.

Ok, I completely understand what you mean about making sure they "seat well". What I don't understand is what you're getting at in pointing out "seat contact dwell is the primary path of heat transfer to the cylinder head"? Could you elaborate? Just trying to understand!
 
So your saying the Ex valve needs to stay closed longer to transfer heat from the valve to the head.

What if we take that dwell time and cut it in half? Valve Failure?
 
Ok, I completely understand what you mean about making sure they "seat well". What I don't understand is what you're getting at in pointing out "seat contact dwell is the primary path of heat transfer to the cylinder head"? Could you elaborate? Just trying to understand!

Tighter lash increases effective lobe duration, which reduces valve seat dwell.

So your saying the Ex valve needs to stay closed longer to transfer MORE heat from the valve to the head.

What if we take that dwell time and cut it in half? Valve Failure?

Fixed it for ya! :)

Reducing dwell period and/or increasing heat soak both lead towards earlier valve damage/failure (main reason excessive timing is hard on them).

Valve heads have a non-linear thermal duty cycle.
 
Tighter lash increases effective lobe duration, which reduces valve seat dwell.



Fixed it for ya! :)

Reducing dwell period and/or increasing heat soak both lead towards earlier valve damage/failure (main reason excessive timing is hard on them).

Valve heads have a non-linear thermal duty cycle.

I see. Thing is though all aftermarket cams likely decrease seat dwell time so is this reduction significant enough to lead to an early valve failure?
 
Well tightened everything down to .007/.011 last night and on the way to work this morning can't say I really noticed a difference of much. I need to drive it more, got wot, and have some more time but just on the 30 minute drive in this morning not much difference. Possibly more power in lock up at 40mph to 48 or so but it could be a placebo effect (I did something and surely it is working better lol).
 
Actually the truck does seem to be a bit stronger through the rev range. Turbo swings quicker from 10 + psi and the bottom end is a bit stronger. Overall considering it's free i'd recommend tightening the lash up a bit. It's not night and day but it's noticeable.
 
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