how to remove the rotors on my 96 2wd 3500 dodge

DiEsElFeInE

DiEsElFeInE

Bleeding Diesel!
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
166
need to do a brake job on my truck. rotors,pads and calipers. cant really figure out the easiet way to remove the rotors.


anyone help me out with this?



thnx
 
Remove wheel bearings, remove wheel studs, remove rotor from hub.
 
the part that has the castle nut on it does it have splines on it, behind the nut? i dont know how to remove the rotors. just need to know how the get the hub off the splindle? looks to me like the rotor goes on behind the splindle?
 
Remove castle nut, and the four bolts going into the hub from the backside and and the hub will come out.
 
ok so thats the only way to remove the rotor i have to remove them four bolts?

thnx by the way for the quick responses :)
 
so when i remove the four 12 point bolts it will just come apart? be easy to figure out from there?
 
I forgot to mention the part where you beat the living hell out of it to get the hub out of the spindle. If the hub is stuck badly I use a long wheelstud, screwed into the hub, and air-hammer it out.
 
Yeah you need a case of beer too.
He forgot to say about the part where you beat the living hell out of the studs to get them out of the rotar the beat them into the new one.
Its fun
 
R.C.inc. said:
Yeah you need a case of beer too.
He forgot to say about the part where you beat the living hell out of the studs to get them out of the rotar the beat them into the new one.
Its fun
Click to expand...

Actually I did forget that part, I use a snap-on stud installer to pull the wheelstuds back into the hub unit. Works way better than trying to pound them in with a punch and hammer.
 
For his, it should be take off the caliper, remove the castle nut under the dust cap, and slide the works off. 2wd doesn't use unit bearings like the 4x4s (unless its a cab and chassis). Hub and rotor are all one piece, and the studs shouldn't have to come out.
 
You just beat me on that one. The 2WD 3500 trucks have a rotor-hub assembly. A bit pricey to replace.
 
Tate said:
For his, it should be take off the caliper, remove the castle nut under the dust cap, and slide the works off. 2wd doesn't use unit bearings like the 4x4s (unless its a cab and chassis). Hub and rotor are all one piece, and the studs shouldn't have to come out.
Click to expand...

golfersmith said:
You just beat me on that one. The 2WD 3500 trucks have a rotor-hub assembly. A bit pricey to replace.
Click to expand...

Its basically got a SFA just without a pumpkin, just like a 4x4 or C&C. Maybe its a dually thing
 
White Knight said:
Its basically got a SFA just without a pumpkin, just like a 4x4 or C&C. Maybe its a dually thing
Click to expand...

That would be a cab and chassis thing. My 98 3500 is a IFS with the one piece rotor/hub assembly. In 2k, they went to the unit bearing and bolt on adapter setup on the 2wd pickups, but its still an IFS.
 
Tate said:
That would be a cab and chassis thing. My 98 3500 is a IFS with the one piece rotor/hub assembly. In 2k, they went to the unit bearing and bolt on adapter setup on the 2wd pickups, but its still an IFS.
Click to expand...

x2 my 98 3500 2x4 is also IFS
 
my pops helped me with it turns out to be a piece of cake when the guy helping you knows a lot.

i replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, calipers, and pads on both sides cost me $900. @ NAPA with our business discount.

didnt know it was going to cost that much.

but now i have a new front end. LOL
 
I buy lots of stuff from NAPA. They don't offer the drilled rotors for our 3500 trucks. Looking at the ART units and their price is not too bad and they are cryo also.
 
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