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SHughes

SHughes

Too much is never enough!
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Messages
9,272
My question is multi-faceted.

Little background...47RE with a full-manual valve body in a classic truck, so no computer.

1. Looking at different ways wiring Over Drive and Lock Up. I will run a micro switch on the shifter so neither will engage unless it is in third gear and will disengage once the shifter is moved from the "D" position.

2. Wondering if wiring both to engage at the same time is an issue?
a. What is the normal delay between hitting OD and LU engaging in a factory truck? And would engaging both at the same time cause any issues?
b. What if they were run in series?

3. Or could I have it engage LU once it's shifted to third (via the switch on the shifter) then OD on a button. Would that be detrimental to transmission shafts? Which is part of why I will have the switch on the shifter...I don't want to break things by using LU in 2nd gear. LOL

I'm really just trying to find a way to run both off of a single button.

:nail::nail::nail:
 
If I ran a manual vb I'd have the od setup on a step on floor switch like some old high beam dimmers and the lockup on the shifter. I had a 1st gen with a gear venders setup that way and liked it a lot.

This answers nothing just throwing it out there.
 
estrada5.9 said:
If I ran a manual vb I'd have the od setup on a step on floor switch like some old high beam dimmers and the lockup on the shifter. I had a 1st gen with a gear venders setup that way and liked it a lot.
Click to expand...

I like this idea and if you have an automatic transmission your left foot is bored anyways...
 
estrada5.9 said:
If I ran a manual vb I'd have the od setup on a step on floor switch like some old high beam dimmers and the lockup on the shifter. I had a 1st gen with a gear venders setup that way and liked it a lot.

This answers nothing just throwing it out there.
Click to expand...
At least you're honest :)

Hobbs switches for each, tune the pressures and run the ground through the foot switch. Foot switch disables.
Not sure that works on a manual VB because pressure is no longer proportional.

Arduino and some transistors......
 
If both come on at the same time, you'll want to make sure you're up in the rpm's before they do. At 50mph OD and LU drop my rpms below 1500 from over 2000, with 4.10's, so if you're geared higher it would be even more dramatic.

I also don't LU first except at the track, because you have to let the rpms climb high before you engage OD because of the drastic rpm drop. Also, engaging OD while locked is very harsh, at least on mine.

I hate the foot switch idea if you ever plan on having to shift kinda fast. You'll be pissed the first time you go to engage the foot switch, miss it, and rev out the tach and have to back off the throttle.

I usually just leave OD switched on all the time, and it will only actually engage when in 3rd gear. LU is all I switch on and off all the time, which is usually only over 40mph out of town.

OD take 1-1.5 seconds to actually engage for me. Depends on rpm/line pressure/temp etc.... Lock up is instant as soon as I flip the switch.
 
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SHughes said:
My question is multi-faceted.

Little background...47RE with a full-manual valve body in a classic truck, so no computer.

1. Looking at different ways wiring Over Drive and Lock Up. I will run a micro switch on the shifter so neither will engage unless it is in third gear and will disengage once the shifter is moved from the "D" position.

2. Wondering if wiring both to engage at the same time is an issue?
a. What is the normal delay between hitting OD and LU engaging in a factory truck? And would engaging both at the same time cause any issues?
b. What if they were run in series?

3. Or could I have it engage LU once it's shifted to third (via the switch on the shifter) then OD on a button. Would that be detrimental to transmission shafts? Which is part of why I will have the switch on the shifter...I don't want to break things by using LU in 2nd gear. LOL

I'm really just trying to find a way to run both off of a single button.

:nail::nail::nail:
Click to expand...

Factory, OD came on whenever you weren't under heavy throttle or at a certain rpm and it needs to upshift. Lockup came on over 45mph, unless under heavy throttle, or it needs to upshift.
 
Hobbs switches set up to lu at 40, od at 52 , cancel switches and VB that locks in 2nd . Truck will accel faster light and heavy throttle.
 
Does the governor pressure stay proportional to wheel speed on a manual valve body?
 
turboram said:
Hobbs switches set up to lu at 40, od at 52 , cancel switches and VB that locks in 2nd . Truck will accel faster light and heavy throttle.
Click to expand...







biggy238 said:
Does the governor pressure stay proportional to wheel speed on a manual valve body?
Click to expand...

If so, then this seems like a good way to make OD an automatic function, which is fine for me.

Then LU could be completely manual.

The gap between more and enough never changes.
 
biggy238 said:
Does the governor pressure stay proportional to wheel speed on a manual valve body?
Click to expand...

Depends on how it's setup, now that there are constant pressures and fancy pumps. But usually it's relative to input shaft rpm and however you have the vb built.
 
What rear end ratio? My fear is that if you are running higher like 3.55 and any taller than factory tire, and you hit OD/LU under 55mph, you will bark the turbo/s every time under light throttle.
 
Mike...if I simply wired OD to engage once shifted to third, with or without a Hobs switch, would it engae after 1-2 seconds and then not disengage unless shifted away from third??

The gap between more and enough never changes.
 
madmikeismad said:
What rear end ratio? My fear is that if you are running higher like 3.55 and any taller than factory tire, and you hit OD/LU under 55mph, you will bark the turbo/s every time under light throttle.
Click to expand...

It will have 2.80 Gears soon. And much smaller tires....probably not more than 29"
 
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madmikeismad said:
Depends on how it's setup, now that there are constant pressures and fancy pumps. But usually it's relative to input shaft rpm and however you have the vb built.
Click to expand...

hmm, I'll have to check with Goerend.
 
SHughes said:
My question is multi-faceted.

Little background...47RE with a full-manual valve body in a classic truck, so no computer.

1. Looking at different ways wiring Over Drive and Lock Up. I will run a micro switch on the shifter so neither will engage unless it is in third gear and will disengage once the shifter is moved from the "D" position.

2. Wondering if wiring both to engage at the same time is an issue?
a. What is the normal delay between hitting OD and LU engaging in a factory truck? And would engaging both at the same time cause any issues?
b. What if they were run in series?

3. Or could I have it engage LU once it's shifted to third (via the switch on the shifter) then OD on a button. Would that be detrimental to transmission shafts? Which is part of why I will have the switch on the shifter...I don't want to break things by using LU in 2nd gear. LOL

I'm really just trying to find a way to run both off of a single button.

:nail::nail::nail:
Click to expand...

2. Yes, possibly. Engaging both at the same time when the convertor is not near the flash RPM will result in a large RPM drop.

3. I drove around on a transmission tune like this for awhile. It shifted 2-3 and lockup at the same time. Most people driving it noticed and thought it was stacking shifts. It didn't seem to affect driveability at all. You should definitely have 3-2 downshift unlocked, mine will slide tires when I don't.

Also remember that you must disable lockup to shift out of overdrive. After energizing the O/D solenoid, the trans will stay in O/D even with the O/D solenoid disenergized until the lockup is disenergized too.
 
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SHughes said:
Mike...if I simply wired OD to engage once shifted to third, with or without a Hobs switch, would it engae after 1-2 seconds and then not disengage unless shifted away from third??

The gap between more and enough never changes.
Click to expand...

Correct. Lockup will act the same way. Thats why I leave them both on a switch, so I can switch them off in an emergency. But I normally leave OD on constantly, and lockup manually at 50mph. Unless I'm just grandma driving and not building boost and higher rpm's, then I lockup at 35mph.
 
joefarmer said:
3. I drove around on a transmission tune like this for awhile. It shifted 2-3 and lockup at the same time. Most people driving it noticed and thought it was stacking shifts. It didn't seem to affect driveability at all. You should definitely have 3-2 downshift unlocked, mine will slide tires when I don't.
Click to expand...

Now you have me really wanting to do like I said before in response to Mike...I could/should have OD engage via a micro switch once the shifter is in 3rd gear (drive) and then LU on a button...both would disengage once the shifter was moved...but with out a pressure switch, would OD ever disengage at lower speeds?

joefarmer said:
Also remember that you must disable lockup to shift out of overdrive. After energizing the O/D solenoid, the trans will stay in O/D even with the O/D solenoid disenergized until the lockup is disenergized too.
Click to expand...

Another thing I forgot to mention in the OP was that I am thinking of making LU dependent upon OD being engaged, and therefore would disengage both at the same time if needed.
 
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