info on a sqhd

R

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They Call Me Boner
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Jun 26, 2006
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as the title says, does anybody have any pics of one or info on what they look like. just want to make sure what one looks like before i go for a drive and find out its not one. thanks
 
It is hard to tell just by looking. There are several sizes that look the same. Best thing to do is find numbers on the housing and chunk then look them up.

This is what they look like for a general idea but like I said most big rears look allot alike.
0d580e00.jpg
 
I'd also like to know how to identify one. How can you tell the difference between a SQHD, a F106 or a F172? Were they all rated for 22k lbs or only the SQHD?
 
The F106 and the H172 will both have those numbers on the tag. The 106 is much smaller then the 172 and SQHD which are very similar in size with air brakes. 172 will be a 6 lug like the 106 and the SQHD is 10 lug and is the back axle of alot of tandom road tractor
 
SQ are rated @ 38,000 lbs , I know were 2 are if interested dunno if they have aluminum hubs and center tho
 
DISTURBED said:
The F106 and the H172 will both have those numbers on the tag. The 106 is much smaller then the 172 and SQHD which are very similar in size with air brakes. 172 will be a 6 lug like the 106 and the SQHD is 10 lug and is the back axle of alot of tandom road tractor
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Can any stock 6 lug hubs be fitted to the SQHD or is that a custom part?
 
j-rod said:
Can any stock 6 lug hubs be fitted to the SQHD or is that a custom part?
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not to my knowledge the bearings in the SQHD hubs are alot bigger then any of the others which results in more rotating resistance. Thats why most cut the spindals off for the 106 spindals and hubs
 
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GOT-Torque said:
if you are going to go thru all the work of putting a big rear under the truck, should a guy just go straight to the sqhd or is there an advantage to the f106? weight savings?

I think I found a sqhd, it's 10 lug and rated for 23000 lbs per the numbers (S23-190) on it.

I'd like to have it end up looking like one of these:

http://trbmachine.com/TRB_Machine/4_X_4_Rear_Ends.html

however, SCS has some nice parts for the F106's too...

http://scsgearbox.com/default2.asp?active_page_id=105
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Depends, weight is a big difference the H172/SQHD is 200lbs+ heavier then the 106 in stock form unless you spend big money to lighten them up. It also depends on the type tracks and the power you are making. Alot of guys are still running the 106. Some have problems some dont, alot of the ITPA trucks eat R&P in the 106 but if you hook on a sandy type tracks then the 106 will live just fine but if are making "BIG" power on power tracks then you may have some trouble. I took the 106 out of my truck for the 172 because i went through a couple R&P and center sections but it has upset the truck because i had to take 200 off the nose. this winter we are going to a different spring/shock setup to try to free the truck up a bit, so there is alot to look at when welding these in big rears in. If i had to do it over i may have left the 106 in for this season. The problem i had is i didnt know anybody that had swapped the 106 for a 172 so we went into it blind thinking it would be just a easy transition, welding it in was the easy part chasing why it upset the truck is the hard part but think we found out why.
 
If I would have known what I do now....I would have built a SQHD or 172 Semi-Floater sheet metal rear end for our tube truck. Could have saved HUGE amounts of weight and the difference in the price of the axles compared to having to buy aluminum hubs to get the Full-floater down to weight would have been quite a bit cheaper!

Maybe on the next truck.......
 
DISTURBED said:
Depends, weight is a big difference the H172/SQHD is 200lbs+ heavier then the 106 in stock form unless you spend big money to lighten them up. It also depends on the type tracks and the power you are making. Alot of guys are still running the 106. Some have problems some dont, alot of the ITPA trucks eat R&P in the 106 but if you hook on a sandy type tracks then the 106 will live just fine but if are making "BIG" power on power tracks then you may have some trouble. I took the 106 out of my truck for the 172 because i went through a couple R&P and center sections but it has upset the truck because i had to take 200 off the nose. this winter we are going to a different spring/shock setup to try to free the truck up a bit, so there is alot to look at when welding these in big rears in. If i had to do it over i may have left the 106 in for this season. The problem i had is i didnt know anybody that had swapped the 106 for a 172 so we went into it blind thinking it would be just a easy transition, welding it in was the easy part chasing why it upset the truck is the hard part but think we found out why.
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Jeremy, did you cut the ends of the 172 axle housing off and weld on the new hub sections (like in the TRB machine link I posted) or did it stay stock dimensions? Just wondering what form it was in that added the 200 lbs. thanks
 
GOT-Torque said:
Jeremy, did you cut the ends of the 172 axle housing off and weld on the new hub sections (like in the TRB machine link I posted) or did it stay stock dimensions? Just wondering what form it was in that added the 200 lbs. thanks
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No I didn't cut the ends off mine it is in stock form minus the brakes of course
 
GOT-Torque said:
Jeremy, did you cut the ends of the 172 axle housing off and weld on the new hub sections (like in the TRB machine link I posted) or did it stay stock dimensions? Just wondering what form it was in that added the 200 lbs. thanks
Click to expand...


The TRB axle like pictured isn't running hub...its a semi-floater axle just like all half ton axles such as a Ford 9inch or a 10-bolt chevy. By doing this Tod at TRB is saving tons of weight (two spindles, big heavy hubs) going with full billet spool is saving major weight compared to the stock carrier and spider gears. This all comes at one major price though....call him up and ask him how much he charges...be prepaired to fall off your chair...I did!!!

RyanB
 
I know I looked at a spool for mine it was $1800 just for the spool. If you have unlimited funds I would go with a sheet metal rear they are the same weight as a 106 with the SQHD pig but then you have to buy the custom axles. That's why mine is all stock I didn't have the money to drop 5k in a rear. TRB's axle looks good but the one that is posted above is going to be to short and I wonder how it will hold up if you lengthen it out to were you would need it to run duals at 8000 pounds or if they offer a different design for the diesels
 
I'm planning to Call Todd back and discuss some prices on a few options. I know it isn't going to be cheap,and I'll post up what I find out.
 
ouch my wallet hurts...

axle kit with weld on pieces $3000
cut/machine/weld kit onto housing $500
billet spool $2000
find a used housing $400? estimate
cast third member $300? estimate
aluminum third member $1500? estimate
gear set $200? total guess
setup cost if he does it $?

So overall you are looking at 3000+2000+500+400+300+200

$ 6400 w/ cast
$ 7200 w/ alum

plus setup cost
 
GOT-Torque said:
ouch my wallet hurts...

axle kit with weld on pieces $3000
cut/machine/weld kit onto housing $500
billet spool $2000
find a used housing $400? estimate
cast third member $300? estimate
aluminum third member $1500? estimate
gear set $200? total guess
setup cost if he does it $?

So overall you are looking at 3000+2000+500+400+300+200

$ 6400 w/ cast
$ 7200 w/ alum

plus setup cost
Click to expand...

Yup, not cheap!!! If you can do most of the work your self (and find someone to build you axle shafts and figure out the semi-floater thing your self...you will save a TON of $$$!!!!! (most custom axles for a full floating housing are 1200-1500$ and that includes driver plates in the same material as the shafts (I would think that if you can find someone to build you a set of shafts for the semi floater it would be similar priced to the full floater with driver plates).

There are other options out there for a spool....you just have to look and look hard!!!!!!

That price on gears sounds pretty low. Proformance Pro's have them for $350 and then you are still going to need the bearing and setup kit.

One thing that I am unsure of....does the 172 and the SQHD have the cast pinion support like the F106..because if so you are going to want to upgrade to a billet piece to keep the pinion from wanting to come out the front of the 3rd member, especially under high torque and bounce situations!

In the end...I guess it comes down to the abuse your going to put on it and how much you want to spend. For our truck running at 6200lbs and less than ideal tracks...an F106 is more than enough but not stock! We have ours fully built with a sheet metal housing, BIG shafts, spool, billet pinion support, rockwell gears (we got a killer deal on a set of brand new rockwell gears and only paid $50 more than the off-shore aftermarket gears). and we are at $2750...(that is about $2500 cheaper that what other places told us we would spend for a fully built sheet metal axle. Doing it our selves and sourcing our own parts has deffinatly saved some $.

Ryan
 
Both the SQHD and 172 have the cast pinion support but are built and designed heavier then the 106 and won't be a problem. So you won't need to change it. At $6000+ I would go with a sheet metal rear over what TRB is building. When I spoke to Barker last year they wanted $5500 out the door for a SQHD sheet metal rear. Something else you can do to a sheet metal rear or any big rear for that matter to cut some weight is foam the inside of it so you don't need to use as much oil which will save 20-30 lbs
 
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