Just purchased a 2012 6.7 for a 94 crew cab. P-pump or?

Morse

Morse

Diesel
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Apr 30, 2006
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I just purchased a 2012 6.7 with 12,000 miles from a member here for my 94 crew cab project. I'm receiving everything to make it run. I was wondering if anyone can describe the most affordable way to p-pump it. I've read it's possible to modify the timing cover off a 12 valve instead of purchasing an aftermarket piece. This would be a huge advantage for me. Turbomatt1 here on the forum has many stock 12 valve parts if they can be used. I've made big power with a 5.9 CR and a 12 valve, but is efi out yet for the 2012's? I'll probably just go with headstuds, 12 valve rods, and a decent single either way.
All help is very appreciated. Please show any pictures if you have them.
 
Morse said:
I just purchased a 2012 6.7 with 12,000 miles from a member here for my 94 crew cab project. I'm receiving everything to make it run. I was wondering if anyone can describe the most affordable way to p-pump it. I've read it's possible to modify the timing cover off a 12 valve instead of purchasing an aftermarket piece. This would be a huge advantage for me. Turbomatt1 here on the forum has many stock 12 valve parts if they can be used. I've made big power with a 5.9 CR and a 12 valve, but is efi out yet for the 2012's? I'll probably just go with headstuds, 12 valve rods, and a decent single either way.
All help is very appreciated. Please show any pictures if you have them.
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RonA would be the man to talk with. Belive he had the first P'd 6.7
 
I've already contacted him. He bought the cover. His build was pricey. I understand most are, though I want to save where I can.
 
I had one almost done then sold the engine. I still have everything to do it, cover, gearcase, lines, injectors, intake manifold etc if you are interested. You have to machine the intake though if you use a 6.7 head.
 
No EFILive for a 2012. Unless you went with different year electronics


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You can mod the front cover, just need to pay attention to the gear lash. Redrilled the front cover to line up with the CR oil pan as well. I had a guy do mine, I ran it for 3 years as a puller with no issues.
 
Its pretty simple to do just redrill the block for the 12v gear housing
 
khales said:
Its pretty simple to do just redrill the block for the 12v gear housing
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Wouldn't the ppump placement be an issue with the head or can you grind some material away? Or do you have to mill it off, and build something fun?
 
CorneliusRox said:
Wouldn't the ppump placement be an issue with the head or can you grind some material away? Or do you have to mill it off, and build something fun?
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For mine I used a ZZfab intake, but yes on a stock 6.7 head intake shelf is in the way.
 
Also Ron was not the first. Just the first well know here. His ran damn well


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CorneliusRox said:
Wouldn't the ppump placement be an issue with the head or can you grind some material away? Or do you have to mill it off, and build something fun?
Click to expand...

Yeah the pump hits the head bad. It is curved out toward the pump the entire length of the intake where as a 12/24 valve head has indents for the p pump. Also with the Scheid cover I used it hits a couple bolt bosses on the block that have to be ground off. Ron A said the Keating cover didn't hit the bolt bosses to the best of his memory, so they must design it with the pump out a little further.
 
So would a 24 valve head be a better choice than running the 6.7 head? Would the spray angles still be correct?
 
I m considering the move away from CR because once a good p pump is installed, you have all the fuel needed along with the capability to tune it without the use of electronics. Also, the truck it's going in is kind of rare. It would be nice to make the engine more unique as well. In all reality, I've been a hp junky for many years. Now though, it seems like anyone can post crazy numbers with the swipe of a card. Kind of takes some of the fun out of it. If this truck ends up p pumped, I'm sure I'll opt to go with more hp at the wheels. If I go CR, I just don't want to mess with much. It will probably be left near stock. For that matter, Jodo's VE conversion would be cool as well. It's unique, efficient, could be set around 350-400, and just looks clean.
I also need to pick a trans. I have an nv4500, but my wife prefers an auto. I made a deal for a 47rh, t-case, etc yesterday. Pick it up Saturday. I also tried to buy the the 68 that was attached to the motor yesterday for a plug and play installation, but he had sold it. That would have made my mind up as far as hp. It would be low...
 
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Morse said:
So would a 24 valve head be a better choice than running the 6.7 head? Would the spray angles still be correct?
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Well, I think that's like throwing away extra flow. I'd use the 6.7 head and get a hold of keating. Everything I have seen from them has been top notch, and the owner has no problem making time to talk to you, so call him up and see.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Well, I think that's like throwing away extra flow. I'd use the 6.7 head and get a hold of keating. Everything I have seen from them has been top notch, and the owner has no problem making time to talk to you, so call him up and see.
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Or just cut the shelf off of a 6.7 head, go to a ZZ style shelf intake.
 
zstroken said:
I was thinking the intake would be cheaper than the front cover, I could be wrong though.
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Gotcha. Yeah, I don't know, I bet they'd be pretty close, but an intake would actually give you some performance. I think it's around $300 to have the shelf milled, and around $1000 for an intake (or you could build one and I think intake plates to build your own are around $300).
 
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