Lb7: Should I install head studs?

All the pistons on the drivers side had the carbon cleaned off like this, coolant right?
IMAG0169.jpg
 
I just gotta pimp Alligator Performance a little, I
called them yesterday at 5pm and ordered my
parts, just got home and the head studs are
already here!!!!!
 
No need to pull the motor. We've got a crew cab in the shop this week, it has a 3" body lift and I didn't feel like bending over the front to work on it. 2 hrs later the cab was in the air. ;)
 
1pieceatatime. said:
Man, you have to pull the motor to get the head studs in? I wish i had known that when i installed my head studs..... How ever did i get them in?:bang
Click to expand...
you can jack the cab up on each side, but it's not fun, ex employee tried it once and it's dang near impossible to torque stuff right that way. Cab off or engine out is best.

LReiff said:
No need to pull the motor. We've got a crew cab in the shop this week, it has a 3" body lift and I didn't feel like bending over the front to work on it. 2 hrs later the cab was in the air. ;)
Click to expand...
Best idea ever isn't it? Makes life SO much easier with the body off!
 
Im not sure why you would have to jack the cab up or pull the engine to install studs, I fired it up this morning at 6 after working all night and it all went together smooth, you gotta set the rear studs on the drivers side in the head before installing it but that's all.
 
I think I bent a valve from turning the engine over setting the lash and one pushrod fell out of place and it got tight. Ordering a s366 Monday since its coming back apart.
 
P.S. Lifting the cab eliminates alot of chance for error. You've got alot more room to work, standing beside the motor puts one in a better frame of mind than leaning over the front.
Steps to lift body...3hrs to complete, 3hrs to reverse.
1) drain coolant
2) position the truck in the lift area so cab can be raised
3) remove fan drive belt
4) remove fan, fan shroud, disconnect upper rad hose and trans cooler lines from rad, remove TCM
4) remove LH fender liner, remove steering shaft center bolt and uncouple the shaft, remove lower clamp on LH boost pipe
6) remove RH fender liner, remove block heater power cord from truck body, remove lower clamp on RH boost tube, disconnect lower rad coolant hose
7) disconnect & remove both batteries, disconnect coolant reservoir hose
8) unbolt A/C compressor and lay it upside down in the RH battery tray. DO NOT disconnect any A/C hoses or drain the A/C system!
9) This is a delicate step, take your time, it's all plug and play, no wires need cut! disassemble the power distribution module and unplug all harnesses that go to the engine and chassis, disconnect the ECM, disconnect A/C-coolant harness from RH side of engine bay and move to LH side, disconnect alt. harness and remove to LH side, lay all the harnesses down on LH front tire making sure no connections between the body and chassis exist.
10) disconnect trans shift cable and park brake cable from chassis at the forward most connection near the left front cab mount
11) disconnect master cylinder rod from brake pedal and 4 bolts from master cylinder assy. pull assy out of fire wall and lay it down on LH front tire DO NOT disconnect any PS or brake lines.
12) remove grill, remove front bumper, remove 4 bolts from front trans cooler mount brackets and leave the cooler assy hang down
13) remove all cab mount bolts, lift cab watching for anything that might get caught
14) have fun working on a duramax motor!

Grand total time to remove body, send heads out to be reconditioned, install head studs, replace injectors, change engine oil & filter, replace fuel filter, reinstall body and top fill with coolant - 25 hours or less.
 
Last edited:
I had the heads off in under 5 and back on in 11....... no way its worth pulling the cab, especially with my sub wiring and gauges and dsp5 switch I would have to fool with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top