Lets talk brakes!

RockinRam96

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Sep 15, 2011
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I'm hoping this will turn into a discussion about what owners have experienced with their 94-97 Dodge trucks. I have owned two 96 Dodge trucks, one being a half ton and one being a 3/4 ton diesel. I have loved most everything about both of them other than the brakes.

So, my current issue with my 96 3/4 ton diesel. In the fall of 2012 before I put my truck away I drained all the fluid and put brand new DOT 3 synthetic fluid in the brake system. This spring (2013) when I got my truck out of storage I decided I'd do brakes on the front end. Partly because I needed them but mostly because I was hoping that my pedal would stiffen up and I'd get better braking response. I noticed my passenger side pads were worn more than my drivers side, thinking that my caliper was setting up I checked it thoroughly, with no sign of it setting up. From previous experience with my half ton, I decided to change out the rubber hose. After replacing new pads, rotors and rubber brake lines and after bleeding all four corners I still had a spongy pedal.

The brake job took place back in April and about a month ago my ABS light came on. When this happened my pedal go much more spongy. I took the ABS fuse out and the pedal got a little stiffer and a little better response.

I guess, I'm hoping this thread will help me solve my issues and allow others to share what they have experienced, with potential solutions. Last, this discussion could turn into which shoes, pads and rotors everyone likes and why.
 
Watching. I am doing upgraded myself. Brake line stainless braided hoses and upgraded rear drums
 
the trick is tr grease the moving parts, and keep the black rubber things in the caliper bolt area..
If yours are moving out or gone, new ones are cheap. Thats what keeps the caliper squared up.
New pads, on a fresh rotor, should work like new and last like yours sid up until now..
 
pedal feel is largely produced by the rear brakes adjustment combined with master cylinder "take-up".
A good upgrade is Chevy rear wheel cylinders from a 1 ton. Both for better feel and increased braking force applied to the rear wheels.

x2 on the caliper pins etc
semi loaded caliper from parts store are relatively cheap, comes with bracket and pins and all new hardware and somewhat shiny.

bed or burnish your brakes in by doing a dozen or so medium to hard slow downs from 55 to 35ish with a bit of cool time between stops.

this will match the pads/ shoes/ surface to the rotor/drumand create a better feel as well.
 
All good responses so far.

I do lube my caliper bolts up pretty good every time I take any of it apart and put it back together. However about a two weeks ago my caliper bolts completely backed out and allowed the caliper to move around all willy nilly. Not quite sure the reason, the opposite side was put together the same exact way.

As far as pads, shoes and rotors, I use Napa. Napa rotors are the heaviest and cheapest I've found, yet. Haven't made up my mind on pads just yet. I put semi metallic on the last time I changed them. May try ceramic next.
 
I put some metallic pads on my dads truck, they are noisey but do stop better than the ceramic he had.
 
If its still soft... you got a leak... check the wheel cyl. Hard lines could bee an issues as well, they were for me. I got a real good price from summit on a ss pre-bent kit.
 
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