Let's talk shop heat

I use my out side wood stove, witch heats the water base boards in the house and does a blower in the garage. And the coldest month burns a cord of wood
 
Radiant heat will heat everything, which helps when opening and closing shop doors. If you just have "forced air heaters" most of the heat will escape when the doors are opened momentarily.
 
A question for the guys with overhead radiant heat. How is the cost to run it for a month. Also if I turn up the heat in the morning, how long until everything is up to temp.
 
We are looking at installing radiant tube heat in a 40x60 shop with 20 foot ceilings. A cold winter day/night here in NJ we will see 10-20degrees.

The shop is not the best of insulated but it has spray foam insulation inside and out. The door up and down is not an issue. I think if it opens a couple times a day it would be a lot. From what every one is saying the recovery time is there because all the objects are warm as opposed to just the air. Which I completely agree with.

My next question is I'm trying to size a tube or two to what will work best.

With the calculators provided online it seems to tell that ill need 450,000 btu to get it up to temp then 120,000 - 150,000 to keep it at about a 10 degree heat drop per hour with ambient air temp of about 25 degree (this is saw when I was at the shop)

I was thinking a 200k would be plenty to keep the shop warm. But I don't want to go to small or too big.

What's every body using for size of heater? Size of shop and avg winter temps? Insulation (good, avg, poor)
 
Ive never cared for overhead radiant heat. We have it in one shop and I hate working in there. Especially if you have something like a combine that you are working on the top of, it will sweat you out of there yet the shop itself is still cold. If the building is insulated enough, any forced air heater will work and keep everything warm.
 
floor heat is the way to fly. its fairly cheap to install if pouring a slab and is very efficient compared to forced air heat or overhead radiant. it may take a long while to heat the shop up, but it uses the slab as a heat battery to keep everything else warm..
 
Ive never cared for overhead radiant heat. We have it in one shop and I hate working in there. Especially if you have something like a combine that you are working on the top of, it will sweat you out of there yet the shop itself is still cold. If the building is insulated enough, any forced air heater will work and keep everything warm.

Luckily for me I don't see us working on many combines if any. The ceilings are high enough to mount a radiant heat unit to cover the whole shop. And I agree a forced hot air is easy and convenient but I'm looking for the most cost effective to keep that overall warmth not just a blast of hot air, shut it off and it cold again in an hour.
 
floor heat is the way to fly. its fairly cheap to install if pouring a slab and is very efficient compared to forced air heat or overhead radiant. it may take a long while to heat the shop up, but it uses the slab as a heat battery to keep everything else warm..

Agreed radiant heat in the floor all the way, unfortunately the shop we are in has 10in poured slab and they never installed the radiant heat tubing. So we will have to suffice with another source of warmth.
 
We are looking at installing radiant tube heat in a 40x60 shop with 20 foot ceilings. A cold winter day/night here in NJ we will see 10-20degrees.

The shop is not the best of insulated but it has spray foam insulation inside and out. The door up and down is not an issue. I think if it opens a couple times a day it would be a lot. From what every one is saying the recovery time is there because all the objects are warm as opposed to just the air. Which I completely agree with.

My next question is I'm trying to size a tube or two to what will work best.

With the calculators provided online it seems to tell that ill need 450,000 btu to get it up to temp then 120,000 - 150,000 to keep it at about a 10 degree heat drop per hour with ambient air temp of about 25 degree (this is saw when I was at the shop)

I was thinking a 200k would be plenty to keep the shop warm. But I don't want to go to small or too big.

What's every body using for size of heater? Size of shop and avg winter temps? Insulation (good, avg, poor)

Evening bump

Sent from my Toilet Explorer
 
We have decided to go forced induction. I had forgot about a old greenhouse heater that we have stored in the back of our barn. I am going to go through it, update it to electronic ignition and a thermostat. I may also open up the gas vents slightly to burn a bit hotter.
 
We are looking at installing radiant tube heat in a 40x60 shop with 20 foot ceilings. A cold winter day/night here in NJ we will see 10-20degrees.

The shop is not the best of insulated but it has spray foam insulation inside and out. The door up and down is not an issue. I think if it opens a couple times a day it would be a lot. From what every one is saying the recovery time is there because all the objects are warm as opposed to just the air. Which I completely agree with.

My next question is I'm trying to size a tube or two to what will work best.

With the calculators provided online it seems to tell that ill need 450,000 btu to get it up to temp then 120,000 - 150,000 to keep it at about a 10 degree heat drop per hour with ambient air temp of about 25 degree (this is saw when I was at the shop)

I was thinking a 200k would be plenty to keep the shop warm. But I don't want to go to small or too big.

What's every body using for size of heater? Size of shop and avg winter temps? Insulation (good, avg, poor)

Morning bump

Sent from my Toilet Explorer
 
Our shop is 80x100x20' with 14 roll up doors. Doors are 14' tall and 12' wide. We have two 50' long radiant tube heaters. They are fired with natural gas and are both 175k btu. They are Detroit Radiant brand. We set them at 60-65 during the day and 40-45 at night. They heat up quickly in the morning and we actually turn them down in the 50s sometimes bc they get too hot to work under. I'm unsure on operating cost bc we haven't had a full month of cold weather yet.
 
I use clean burning coal for heat.....

1459301_10152102894925850_1552126597_n.jpg


20131117_214548_zps44ba695e.jpg


My building is well insulated and is right under 4000sqft, I didnt build it so floor heat wasnt an option. When I get a good fire going, and chuck it full of coal it will burn for about 4 hrs untouched and put off serious heat. It will heat about half the building to 60-65* with outside temps 15-20*. Just be aware, my stove jacket stays about 700*........don't touch it. A shop the size of the OP's, my stove would make you sweat, pick one up on CL and go on.
 
I use clean burning coal for heat.....

1459301_10152102894925850_1552126597_n.jpg


20131117_214548_zps44ba695e.jpg


My building is well insulated and is right under 4000sqft, I didnt build it so floor heat wasnt an option. When I get a good fire going, and chuck it full of coal it will burn for about 4 hrs untouched and put off serious heat. It will heat about half the building to 60-65* with outside temps 15-20*. Just be aware, my stove jacket stays about 700*........don't touch it. A shop the size of the OP's, my stove would make you sweat, pick one up on CL and go on.

That little thing will heat 2000sq feet to 60-65 ?

What do you mean by OP and CL?
 
Also watching this. I need something for our 45 x 45 x 20 shop. Currently using a 170,000 BTU ready heater fired with off road diesel. It heats up good, but costly and stinky. Thinking about setting a propane tank outside and getting about 40' of radiant tube heat. Any brands to avoid? Any to recommend?

Insulated shop with one 20' x 10' insulated overhead door. R13 between perlin and tin.
 
Also watching this. I need something for our 45 x 45 x 20 shop. Currently using a 170,000 BTU ready heater fired with off road diesel. It heats up good, but costly and stinky. Thinking about setting a propane tank outside and getting about 40' of radiant tube heat. Any brands to avoid? Any to recommend?

Insulated shop with one 20' x 10' insulated overhead door. R13 between perlin and tin.

Running into the same thing, we run a 175k diesel space heater but by the end of 8hr you stink and you have a headache. Let alone it eat 50$ a day in fuel. From what I have been researching, it seems like a single 250k strip would be sufficient for a shop our size. Then again we don't quite have the insulation you do.
 
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