Let's talk trailers.....again.

The guy I've been getting tires from the last few yrs said he doesn't use trailer tires anyone, just regular E rated truck tires. Said they hold up way better, and may have been cheaper too. Kinda what I plan to do whenever my trailer is due for tires.
 
I run ST235/80R16's on mine. They are rated for more weight than an LT235/85R16. I think it is around 300-400 more per tire. Multiply that by 8 and it adds up.
 
I run ST235/80R16's on mine. They are rated for more weight than an LT235/85R16. I think it is around 300-400 more per tire. Multiply that by 8 and it adds up.
I've found "trailer rated" tires to be a disappointment.
They don't wear or hold up nearly as well (for me) as a good, solid radial tire does on a trailer.

Also, when you dually up tires, you lose a certain percentage of rating, per tire.
For example a 235/85/R16 is single rated at 3042 pounds per tire, but dual they are only rated at 2778 pounds per tire.

You also need to look at wheels and their weight rating, a 3000 pound tire rating is worthless on a wheel only rated for 2350 pounds.
Also, be extra careful when purchasing aluminum wheels for a trailer, because there are some very, very poor choices available out there.

A trailer is a truck with no engine, it needs the same respect and MORE care than the truck does, especially where wheels, tires and brakes are concerned.

Mark.
 
I had 16" dodge chrome/steel wheels on my trailer. Used to have no issue finding 235/85R16 take off from duallys. Ran those with great luck. I would think sticking a 17" wheel and getting 17" takes offs would be a decent way to tire up a trailer now.
 
Hyd dove is worth every penny!!!! But that's if you want to spend that money.

Hyd over Elect brakes are nice. If you get them, make sure it comes with an adapter box to be able to hook to newer trucks with built in brake controllers. I had to put one on my 2007 LoadMax.

I'm not a fan of the extra wide ramps. 1) They seem pretty heavy if a spring breaks. 2) When hauling my mini or backhoe, the bucket/boom fits between the ramps without having to get off and flip ramps up.

My current trailer is a 2013 Becker 23+5. It's about the perfect length. I used to overload my 40' trailer..... if it fits, it ships....

Look into a Becker. I've been really happy with mine. Wiring is a sealed. Tows great. I think it cost about $7500 for a tandem dual trailer. $.02
 
To the op,
Pay attention to axle placement. A bunch of the equipment-type trailers have the axles pushed pretty far back.

I like hydraulic jacks, and a solar panel to keep the battery charged.

I'm assuming you'd rather have them slightly forward to allow the trailer to take some of the weight?

Shaw, where did you get the Becker? Did they have plenty of trailers in stock? What brand axles?
 
I'm assuming you'd rather have them slightly forward to allow the trailer to take some of the weight?

Shaw, where did you get the Becker? Did they have plenty of trailers in stock? What brand axles?

http://www.beckercustomtrailers.com/in-stock/1053

link to the site. I just called. I think he charged me $200 to take it to Shipshewana, IN. I figured it was worth that to not have to go through Chicago on the way to Wisconsin.

I would not hesitate to buy another. For what some people are buying used ones for, I've thought of updating mine...
 
...I'm assuming you'd rather have them slightly forward to allow the trailer to take some of the weight?...

If I have one, I like a longer trailer with a fair forward bias, both for load carrying, to help the truck tow better and for maneuverability in tighter places.
The bad side is that sometimes the length behind the rear axle (back sweep or rear sweep) will get you in trouble, if you've never done a jackknife turn and you're too close to objects.

Ate a cinder block wall once and took out a 1/4 panel on a parked car another time. :doh:
Fortunately it was way back when I was running for hire and had all the high dollar insurances to pay for it.
They were both rookie mistakes, but were also valuable learning experiences. :hehe:

Mark.
 
Anything can be modified to work.
You and Bruce Jenner think alike. :hehe:

Bruce%20Thumbs%20Up_1.jpg
 
The bad side is that sometimes the length behind the rear axle (back sweep or rear sweep) will get you in trouble, if you've never done a jackknife turn and you're too close to objects.

I consider myself capable of maneuvering any trailer forward or backward with ease.....that being said....ask my mailbox if it liked my neighbors 40ft inline bale trailer with umpteen feet of rear sweep.

You and Bruce Jenner think alike. :hehe:

You, Sir, always find a way to get a great ol' big F U out of me, don't ya? :hehe:
 
I might add that i hope you plan to price new trailers. Buying a used trailer these days is pretty silly. Every used trailer worth a damn on c list I found last month was the same price or more than a dam new one. Not sure how the used trailer industry got so out of control.

One more thing to pay close attention to is tires. It sounds simple but our biggest headache on our trailers from new were tires. The tires most manufacturers put on from the factory are COMPLETE garbage. I cannot count the number of tires we have laying around with almost new tread that broke the belts.

We ended up going to good year unisteel g614 tires on everything. They are pricey but they are a dam good trailer tire.

No ****. My first trailer down here was 6500, and it was 6yrs old. I should have just spend another couple and grabbed Jory's before he could. Only thing I wish this current PJ had was hydraulics to lift the ramps, so I could get little baby cars on easier.
 
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No ****. My first trailer down here was 6500, and it was 6yrs old. I should have just spend another couple and grabbed Jory's before he could.

I wished you would have....then I wouldn't have a box of all new brakes and seals in the shop waiting to go on because the cheap ass Alko hub seals leak.
 
Inner or outer seal jory
Also the fill port have a slot to vent?
 
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