Locking converter in first?

Gasoline Sucks

Gasoline Sucks

slow 12v
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
967
Im going to the local 1/8th mile track and I have a couple questions. I have a race VB I can lock the converter in first gear. My problem is timing the lockup with the green light. It takes about 1-2 seconds from when i hit the switch to when the converter locks.

Should I be trying to time it to lock on green or as close to green as I can? I would have to flip the switch on one of the yellow lights or 60ft will be over before it locks. I have a buddy with a 4x4 6.0 RC with short bed conversion. Hes only got a tune intake and exhaust but I want to make sure I have him covered.

Thanks in advance for any pointers
 
You do not want to hit lock up until AT THE LEAST second gear!!! First gear lock up is a damn good way, to grenade and transmission!!
 
ReaLy? Why do they mod the vb so it will lock in first? It's billet in and output. I've been locking in first for years but usually pretty soft launch on the street though.

I hate when it stacks the converter lock with the second gear shift really bogs down. I have a stock stall converter so the rpm drop is substantial.

I know it can't be easy on parts trying to get a 6300lb truck moving but locked sure feels way better unless it spins.
 
Last edited:
I lock in 1st. I hit the switch as soon as I launch, and it comes on at about where I want it to. That being said, I've got a slow truck compared to most here. I know a lot of people don't have the time to lock in 1st and hit the switch as soon as they hit second gear (so it locks right after they start to build RPMs again).

I haven't seen anyone grenade one from locking in first. I thought you were safe as long as you were actually in first manual and not in drive.
 
I've heard 1-2 shift locked tends to be hard on even billet inputs
 
I was told to lock it as soon as I can. I'm going to get cal tracks or traction bars too
 
What's the deal with not launching in drive? At rudys, I launched in drive at 20 lbs and locked the tc in first gear.



Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 
I said I locked in first, but it may have run through first with my 4.10 gear it may have actually been second.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 
I'm guessing power level has a lot to do with it. But I know on my old 7.3 with the 4R I used to lock my converter up as soon as I launched. That was at around 750ish to 800rwhp and on 37's.

.
 
Imo have the vb setup to lock in 2nd. Put it in drive flip the lock up switch launch and have the valve body lock in second. Seems to be the most consistent setup.
 
I believe thats the most consistent. Your not fumbling for the switch while launching makes sense to me. Theres no way im gonna pull it apart to change it, I just dont race enough. Ill put lockup on the horn button or some kind of full throttle switch before i pull the vb.

Im guessing its a 400hp truck at 6300# with me in it. I was hoping it would help me slide into a better 60ft locking in first. Might just burn the tires off though.
 
I always lock in first with my manual VB, v10 stall converter. It sometimes breaks all 4 loose:hehe: I'm around 7800lbs but only 650ish HP though.
 
Gasoline Sucks said:
I believe thats the most consistent. Your not fumbling for the switch while launching makes sense to me. Theres no way im gonna pull it apart to change it, I just dont race enough. Ill put lockup on the horn button or some kind of full throttle switch before i pull the vb.

Im guessing its a 400hp truck at 6300# with me in it. I was hoping it would help me slide into a better 60ft locking in first. Might just burn the tires off though.
Click to expand...

If it were me i would launch in drive have my hand on the switch and lock it as soon as it shifts into second. What do you do with the truck? I bet you would make alot more than 400 with a little more timing.
 
40ray said:
If it were me i would launch in drive have my hand on the switch and lock it as soon as it shifts into second.
Click to expand...

This is what I do. Have my switch close so I am not reaching for the switch. However with the new tires on the truck and compounds I am gonna have to relearn. Tires do not bite as well as I hoped.
 
12vCumminsFTW said:
I always lock in first with my manual VB, v10 stall converter. It sometimes breaks all 4 loose:hehe: I'm around 7800lbs but only 650ish HP though.
Click to expand...

Thats probably impressive but has to be hard on parts.:bow:

I think part of my traction problem is the rear shocks look factory. I had too much tounge weight yesterday and it felt like I might as well not have rear shocks.:doh:

40ray said:
If it were me i would launch in drive have my hand on the switch and lock it as soon as it shifts into second. What do you do with the truck? I bet you would make alot more than 400 with a little more timing.
Click to expand...

I will do that. I plan to zip tie my tv cable wide open for track.

I do marine repair and regularly haul boats. I do plan to bump timing to 24-26 and finish my dual feed from the sump to the front of the pump. Yesterday I pulled this pile 300+ miles yesterday. Tows better then a stock truck considering i have a pretty loose afc and the converter lockup is very violent over 20psi (watch out for that scared the hell out of the old lady).

[ame="http://s408.photobucket.com/user/hondacr8288/media/Ram%202500/1E76507A-2212-40C0-869F-32F10770F527_zpsyamfo4oi.jpg.html"]1E76507A-2212-40C0-869F-32F10770F527_zpsyamfo4oi.jpg Photo by hondacr8288 | Photobucket[/ame]
 
Last edited:
Breaking things is more about when you lock up in first, vs locking up in first.

We have been 152mph@6000lbs locking in first with no driveline breakage...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top