LPOP ?

Grason

Livin the dream
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Messages
745
My dad started having issues the other day with his oil pressure gauge not reading when he first started his truck. He would turn it off and turn it back on and then it would read just fine. I figured the oil pressure sensor was going bad so we were planning on replacing wed. I got a call from him Tuesday saying it would not run for long, It would pop off and run for 1-5 seconds then die. I went ahead and replaced the oil pressure sensor with no luck. I pulled the oil filter, depressed the spring flow back valve thingy and he cranked it over, there was no oil filling up the housing. Talking with a buddy, he pointed me towards the LPOP, we went ahead and tore it down. I cannot get the outer gear off to save my life. I tried magnets and a pick. Is there a trick someone has to get the outer gear or both gears out so I can inspect it for cracks? and if the LPOP is good, what else could be causing this issue??



any help is greatly appreciated!!



Thanks
Grason
 
after thinking about it some more, what is behind the ring gear on the pump? and can it score to the point where it won't build pressure?





Thanks
Grason
 
Well we got the gears out and it appears some needle bearings went through the gear set and chewed them all to hell. Has anyone seen this or know what it could be?




Grason
 
well thats awesome, this sounds like it will be a fun repair.
 
Sounds like a good time for an inline conversion because motor has to come out any way. If your lucks like mine it will be on the back 4 cyl. requiring the rear engine plate to come off. At any rate have to tear it down to retrieve any other debris.
 
Sounds like a good time for an inline conversion because motor has to come out any way. If your lucks like mine it will be on the back 4 cyl. requiring the rear engine plate to come off. At any rate have to tear it down to retrieve any other debris.

Yeah, we are going to tear it all the way down. What is an inline conversion?
 
We made some progress. We removed the front end pieces and I got the turbo off for today.


Here are some pics for the heck of it


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We got it torn down yesterday and found our bad lifter....


Thanks to my buddy Jason's service truck, it was a good bit easier to get the engine out.
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Might need to check the front case, they can get scored and cause the LPOP to drop pressure. Since the gears are chewed up there might be some damage done to the case. Also if you are not going with a Cummins swap you will want to look into upgrading/deleting the problem areas EGR, Oil Cooler, Studs etc.
 
Might need to check the front case, they can get scored and cause the LPOP to drop pressure. Since the gears are chewed up there might be some damage done to the case. Also if you are not going with a Cummins swap you will want to look into upgrading/deleting the problem areas EGR, Oil Cooler, Studs etc.

I already made the wanted ad for the front cover, We already did an EGR delete, and we plan on studs when we reassemble it. What can we do to the oil cooler to make it last longer? it just got replaced about 2 months ago. We are also planning on adding a coolant filter.
 
I have heard some good things about bulletproofs oil cooler. But I think if you delete the EGR the factory cooler will do fine. I would flush it out before you put the motor back together though.
 
I have one torn apart as well due to metal in the LPOP. I still have not found the source. Lifters are fine.
 
Roger, thanks for the heads up. We are just trying to eliminate as many weak links as possible. Is the oil rail dummy plug the thing that goes bad and causes it to crank for a while before it fires? If so, do they make an aftermarket one which is less prone to crapping out?


Thanks
Grason
 
Can anyone tell me what I have to look for to see if I need 18mm or 20mm head gaskets?
 
The head alignment dowels are what you measure. The 18mm is a straight, split dowel ring. 20mm are a solid, stepped ring. Block will have 18mm dowel bore, head will be 18 or 20 mm dowel bore.
 
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