My new shop

Floor heat

I have installed 2 systems at farm I work at and the biggest is a 80x100 with two zones shop part keep 65 and office is keep 70ish.We do it with tankless boiler from Menard's and hydrosmart panels. Boiler is on natural gas and is a 250k unit and it has no issues. Supplyhouse.com has manifolds and supplies at good prices also and not hard to hookup just takes time.
 
That could be. Would make sense.
Chris

Well that's not the case. They said the boiler is around $4800 but is only 1 of many parts that is needed to finish the job. Wont itemize it out for me. The manifolds are already connected to the tubing. So what else is there other then 2 switches to control the 2 zones, 2 thermostats and some tubing to connect it all?
 
Circulation pumps, Gas line to boiler, power to boiler, Any automatic controls they might have in mind...

There can still be a lot, but $10K seems steep.

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Here's the plumbing for our original 2 zone setup. Two pumps controlled by thermostats, also has manual off switches. That should be basically the same as what you'll be needing.

Also, depending on whether they would be running water in the system, or glycol, that can add cost. If it will be a water system, they will need to be a makeup line for the water supply, if it's glycol it will be a sealed system with just a pressure tank.


I could also grab some pics of the big setup in the new shop if you like.
Chris
 
It is glycol. I'm going to check around and see what other companies say since I have the boiler info now and see how it compares
 
i literally just completed my 60x100 shop with a 30x30 office space connected on the side. 6900 sq ft total. two zones one for office and one for shop.

I did my homework on this talking to many engineers, hvac technicians , and parties that have had it for many years. ill say one thing stay away from tankless water heaters...
You need to keep in mind the effiecency, capacity, flow rate, tubing spacing and size of tubing. Boiler LP or NG is the best way to go, and make sure they are modulating. That is a huge advantage 80% of the new boilers out there are but when looking at menards ones some were not. Capacity, and temp pull plays a big part in sizing your boiler along with what your trying to achieve temp wise and maintain.

Most large companies have programs that will run a pull test for what your trying to achieve, and usually is a free service and also will design the tubing layout.

Just my experience and system, this saved me about 4K. I laid all the tubing myself, following a designed plan. I used foil backed insulation underneath with it rapping up the bam board on the side to not allow heat escape and soak to the outside. Insulation is key obviously, creatherm boards are very nice and allow you snap in the tubing rather than tying it to a wire mesh grid, but its rather expensive anywhere from 1.25-2.00 dollar a sq ft.

I opted for manifolds that could control flow to each loop, REHAU is a good one, each run will need to stay within range of equi-distance, but is hard to achieve sometimes. This way longer and shorter runs you can achieve the proper flow rates to achieve proper efficiency to each loop. I have two 9 circuit manifolds in the shop and a 3 circuit manifold in the office space.
I hired in a company to complete the boiler hookup, pressure test, manifolds, gas lines etc.

Went with 5/8" tubing on 12" centers, connected to a 155,000 btu Wells Mclain boiler, max draw at 0* was 114,000 btu but with nights reaching less than 0* sometimes in ohio, the assurance was worth it having the extra capacity. Between Wells Mclain and Traingle tube are your two top and most popular boilers i found.

I have a lot of the paper work i would be happy to share on the load pull calculations and all that, along with the over all cost. I have $9500 in the boiler, installation, pumps, copper lines, gas lines etc... $3500 in tubing, $2600 in insulation and $900 in the wire mesh to tie the tubing too. I think a complete job with them doing it all was roughly 20-21k. so i saved a lot by doing some installation myself.

I hope my experience helps, its def worth the money for sure i feel, but after talking to enough people the boiler is the heart of the operation. Really spend the time in research and money there is what i found. A lot of guys in my local area have done it twice and switched to a boiler.

I can post pics if that may help also..

Thanks
-Clinton
 
HOLY CRAP! I can't believe how much can be spent on these systems. I guess that's a huge shop, though. I bet they are nice, when all said and done
 
Been busy in the evenings and weekends working on the shop. Got it all framed in for the interior tin to be installed on and working on the joints that were cut to help with cracking. We are filling the joints with sikaflex 1csl. If no one has ever done this. It phucking sucks! It literally like watching paint dry only its watching this chit go down into the cut joints.
 

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Some more progress as well as alot of aggravation. Got all the joints in the main shop caulked and looking good. Went and bought the commercial grade sealer called J35 which is $300 for 5 gallons with the color pack. Originally was told it was a light gray color which I wanted but turned out its clear. So the place I bought it at sold me color packs to put in the sealer to make it light gray and said just to roll it on. Spent all evening Wed scrubbing and mopping the floor and started applying the colored sealer Thursday evening only to have it air bubble and not go down. Tried 6 different rollers and all do the same thing!!:bang
 

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What did you use to clean the floor before you put the sealer on with the color?

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Wonder if it wasn't 100% dry are shop floor did something like that in spots

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Wonder if it wasn't 100% dry are shop floor did something like that in spots

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

This is doing it on the entire floor. Even today 3 days after I washed it, its still doing the exact same thing. I'm believe that this sealer wasn't meant to be mixed with color and the place I got it from messed up
 
Looks good overall Jeremy. Should give you plenty of room to work on your truck and recoup some money through customer stuff haha.
 
Some more progress as well as alot of aggravation. Got all the joints in the main shop caulked and looking good. Went and bought the commercial grade sealer called J35 which is $300 for 5 gallons with the color pack. Originally was told it was a light gray color which I wanted but turned out its clear. So the place I bought it at sold me color packs to put in the sealer to make it light gray and said just to roll it on. Spent all evening Wed scrubbing and mopping the floor and started applying the colored sealer Thursday evening only to have it air bubble and not go down. Tried 6 different rollers and all do the same thing!!:bang

What were the exact products you were using?
What was the ambient temp?
What was the floor temp?
How old is the concrete?

I'd be ticked, but I'd still want to know what caused it.
 
What were the exact products you were using?
What was the ambient temp?
What was the floor temp?
How old is the concrete?

I'd be ticked, but I'd still want to know what caused it.

Dayton commercial J35 sealer, Euclide color pack I think was the name. Ambient temperature was around 60* not sure on the floor temp. Concrete is well over a month old. The can says it can be applied 7 days after the concrete is poured. I'm pretty pissed to say the least. More then likely it will need to be sanded off and something else applied
 
Dayton commercial J35 sealer, Euclide color pack I think was the name. Ambient temperature was around 60* not sure on the floor temp. Concrete is well over a month old. The can says it can be applied 7 days after the concrete is poured. I'm pretty pissed to say the least. More then likely it will need to be sanded off and something else applied

Forgot to ask. Any idea on the humidity levels?

I'll ask one of my friends that does this stuff for a living since nothing stands out to me. I'm pissed and it's not even my floor. Flippin hate doing things twice.
 
Forgot to ask. Any idea on the humidity levels?

I'll ask one of my friends that does this stuff for a living since nothing stands out to me. I'm pissed and it's not even my floor. Flippin hate doing things twice.

Humidity wasn't bad. Concrete was dry, no condensation or anything on the surface. I have been talking to the guy that poured the floor and he is baffled. It says on the can it can be sprayed or rolled on. So I'm at a loss except for the color and sealer not getting along. I did spill some on the floor and it didn't bubble but it did kind of separate. It Sat there for a minute and ran the roller over it and it picked the color up but left a wet spot. Pic is of one of the spots
 

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My friend is traveling right now. He did say that in his experience bubbling is to many mills applied in a single coat. Also mentioned that he didn't like the Dayton J35 for shop space. Too slick when wet or snowy, and not as durable as he would like to see. He didn't have any experience with the color pack so some research will be needed on that.
 
My friend is traveling right now. He did say that in his experience bubbling is to many mills applied in a single coat. Also mentioned that he didn't like the Dayton J35 for shop space. Too slick when wet or snowy, and not as durable as he would like to see. He didn't have any experience with the color pack so some research will be needed on that.

I tried every roller from 3/4 nap to 3/8 and even a foam roller and all did the same thing. I'm going to the place I bought it from in the morning
 
I tried every roller from 3/4 nap to 3/8 and even a foam roller and all did the same thing. I'm going to the place I bought it from in the morning

I can't find anybody tinting the J35. From what I found on Euclid they basically say their color packs are for their products only. Starting to look like they gave you some bad advice. If that is the case they should come out to remove the coating, and cover the cost of of the 5 gallons of wasted material.

"Do not use Color Packs in products other than those listed on this technical data sheet."

http://euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/TechData/Euclid_Universal_Color_Packs.pdf
 
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