Oring block/head

J

johnfak

New member
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
253
Guys
If I pull the head to upgrade head have a couple of questions given that the block and the head are both supposedly orringed (Previous Owner).

1) Can i re-feed the wire and seat myself without to much drama ? Mainly the bock as the new head will be orringed as well and will have shop do it.

2) How do I measure and determine correct wire size and protusion.

3) Any problems with removal of ARP studs to take head off. They have been in there for a while - assuming not as most of the force is on the clamping force of the nut .. just dont want to strip or break $1000 (ARP 625) studs.

4) While head is off. Anyway to determine if the block or head has been decked previously.

thx
 
Meaning ..... just leave it if it's not cracked/split and seated ok ?


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Yes I inspect wire Most time it's fine .. Removing and installing new wire is very time consuming .. Not needed unless damaged ..if your wire is good wire .. Normal 008-.012 protrusion
 
Last edited:
Thx
If not marked any way to measure .....

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Large set of mics, measure a stock head from gasket surface to another machined surface in valve cover pocket like the pedestal mounting surface. But who knows what the factory tolerance of that dimension is.
 
I had to change the wire out in my head because it was crushed, it comes out very easy when you slightly heat just the wire with a very small tip on a torch


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