Warpig
12V killer
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2007
- Messages
- 1,067
24v P-Pump conversion
Obviously you need a good pump, and pump brackets. The brackets bolt into the block without modification. The 24v ECM needs to be relocated as it is in the way of the P-7100. We moved mine back, and bolted it up using existing bolts on the tappet cover. If you mount the ECM there you will have to cut the 24V stock lift pump bracket so it sits flush. Do not remove the bracket because it blocks the port for the OEM 12v lift pump. If you plan on using a 12v stock lift pump, find another spot for the ECM. You need p-pump conversion lines from your pump to the injector crossover tubes. Stock 24v and stock 12v lines will not work. Pump gear, "new style" 12v timing gear case (either 12v or 24v cover works) and gaskets (cam has to be removed to remove gear case). The new 12v gear case is notched to keep the KDP in place. The gear case has to be modified slightly for 01 and 02's so you can mount the camshaft position sensor. Shops such as Haisley Machine or Scheid Diesel sell the adapter for the CPS. An aftermarket cam is recommended that can be bolted to the cam gear after the cam gear is pressed on (press off 24v cam gear, press on same gear to new camshaft). Pressure from stout pumps and even stock pumps have caused cam gears to back off the cam and cause forward to back play. This slop will knock out the rear cam cover in the block. The P-7100 also has to have an oil supply. Shops such as Haisley Machine sell the line with proper fittings. If you plan on turning some rpm's with your new pump you will need aftermarket HD valve springs. Your 24v injectors will work with the p-pump but not ideally. You either need to buy injectors specifically for the conversion, or send out a set to be modified. The injector pop off pressure needs to be set for the p-pump, among other things. Unless you plan on using a 12v lift pump, you need to address the fuel supply. A minimum of 30 psi to the p-7100 is recommended. You will also need to modify the fuel return. You can cut the 24v return hard line about 5-6 inches from the “T” where the injection pump return meets the return from the head. -6 AN hose will slip over this line, and can then be clamped. The stock intake horn will work with a 1" spacer to clear the lines. The spacer can be found at Haisley Machine, and comes with their conversion line set. 12v throttle cable, and throttle valve cable is also needed. I've read of guys using their existing cables and modifying the p-pump linkage to accept the 24v APPS (TPS). I used a 12v TPS and a 12v TPS plug was spliced in. You will also need a shutoff solenoid and relay. I've read of guys using a manual shutoff cable fed into the cab. Expect some small setbacks during this conversion, take your time, and have fun.
Hopefully this will answer most of the questions asked by folks wanting to do the conversion.
Tim
Obviously you need a good pump, and pump brackets. The brackets bolt into the block without modification. The 24v ECM needs to be relocated as it is in the way of the P-7100. We moved mine back, and bolted it up using existing bolts on the tappet cover. If you mount the ECM there you will have to cut the 24V stock lift pump bracket so it sits flush. Do not remove the bracket because it blocks the port for the OEM 12v lift pump. If you plan on using a 12v stock lift pump, find another spot for the ECM. You need p-pump conversion lines from your pump to the injector crossover tubes. Stock 24v and stock 12v lines will not work. Pump gear, "new style" 12v timing gear case (either 12v or 24v cover works) and gaskets (cam has to be removed to remove gear case). The new 12v gear case is notched to keep the KDP in place. The gear case has to be modified slightly for 01 and 02's so you can mount the camshaft position sensor. Shops such as Haisley Machine or Scheid Diesel sell the adapter for the CPS. An aftermarket cam is recommended that can be bolted to the cam gear after the cam gear is pressed on (press off 24v cam gear, press on same gear to new camshaft). Pressure from stout pumps and even stock pumps have caused cam gears to back off the cam and cause forward to back play. This slop will knock out the rear cam cover in the block. The P-7100 also has to have an oil supply. Shops such as Haisley Machine sell the line with proper fittings. If you plan on turning some rpm's with your new pump you will need aftermarket HD valve springs. Your 24v injectors will work with the p-pump but not ideally. You either need to buy injectors specifically for the conversion, or send out a set to be modified. The injector pop off pressure needs to be set for the p-pump, among other things. Unless you plan on using a 12v lift pump, you need to address the fuel supply. A minimum of 30 psi to the p-7100 is recommended. You will also need to modify the fuel return. You can cut the 24v return hard line about 5-6 inches from the “T” where the injection pump return meets the return from the head. -6 AN hose will slip over this line, and can then be clamped. The stock intake horn will work with a 1" spacer to clear the lines. The spacer can be found at Haisley Machine, and comes with their conversion line set. 12v throttle cable, and throttle valve cable is also needed. I've read of guys using their existing cables and modifying the p-pump linkage to accept the 24v APPS (TPS). I used a 12v TPS and a 12v TPS plug was spliced in. You will also need a shutoff solenoid and relay. I've read of guys using a manual shutoff cable fed into the cab. Expect some small setbacks during this conversion, take your time, and have fun.
Hopefully this will answer most of the questions asked by folks wanting to do the conversion.
Tim
