Passenger side hub.. 80 bucks?

Sometimes those discount places get a stock of good stuff, sometimes not.
In general I use the age old adage of "You get what you pay for".
If it's cheap, it may be because it's made cheap, however, sometimes high quality parts end up being closed out for pennies on the dollar.

It's a crap shoot, but personally, with a 2 year warranty, it's worth $80 to me to sate my curious side, especially since I drive a lot of miles in 2 years.

Mark.
 
Doesn't say the brand, call and ask if it's Timken. If not, I wouldn't buy it.
 
I think vatozone is about the only place that still carries timken... readily available anyways
 
and be careful with cheaply priced hubs... I learned the hard way, One bad out of the box, one lasted a few months... I traded up for the better grade and not an issue since.

I also remove the ABS sensor and shoot a little grease in there...
 
I don't need one at the moment, but was just looking around to see if prices had changed. I know I'll need one sometime in the near future.

I rotated my tires the other day and noticed that my passenger side upper ball joint was starting to die and that's what got me thinking about hub prices. I did order XRF Ball Joints today and should be here next Monday. I put these on my drivers side a few years ago and they have been great so far.

I haven't made up my mind if I'm going to change the ball joints out myself yet or not. Any tips or tricks? I had someone change out the driver's side for me.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
I haven't made up my mind if I'm going to change the ball joints out myself yet or not. Any tips or tricks? I had someone change out the driver's side for me.
Click to expand...

Get a good Ball joint removal set and a big hammer!
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
I don't need one at the moment, but was just looking around to see if prices had changed. I know I'll need one sometime in the near future.

I rotated my tires the other day and noticed that my passenger side upper ball joint was starting to die and that's what got me thinking about hub prices. I did order XRF Ball Joints today and should be here next Monday. I put these on my drivers side a few years ago and they have been great so far.

I haven't made up my mind if I'm going to change the ball joints out myself yet or not. Any tips or tricks? I had someone change out the driver's side for me.
Click to expand...


Did them all on a buddies common rail in maybe 2 hours max. We used a harbor freight ball joint tool. Put a bunch of pressure on ball joint with the tool and tap the sides around the ball joint with a hammer. It will come out eventually. They really aren't all that bad of a job once you've done a couple trucks.
 
zfaylor said:
Did them all on a buddies common rail in maybe 2 hours max. We used a harbor freight ball joint tool. Put a bunch of pressure on ball joint with the tool and tap the sides around the ball joint with a hammer. It will come out eventually. They really aren't all that bad of a job once you've done a couple trucks.
Click to expand...

Since this would be my first time it should be a PITA then.. :lolly:
 
Just did ball joints, wheel bearings, and tie rods on my truck. Counting a few trips to the store for sockets, arguing with a stubborn pitman arm for an hour, and breaks for food, was about a 12hr job. Wheel bearings I got from rock auto for $160-180/ea and they are timken.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Since this would be my first time it should be a PITA then.. :lolly:
Click to expand...

Nah you'll be fine man. Slower is faster with this stuff. Strip something or break something and you're down a lottttttt longer. It's straight forward. As mentioned above get a good bammer stick, ball joint press, and I spray everything with panther piss a couple days before.
 
The best advice for install is a lot of anti seize on the wheel bearing mating surfaces. If you ever have to replace them again, you will be glad you did.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Am I missing something? 99 with ABS and 4x4 for $80 and a 2 year warranty?

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/1ASHF00112/380866/1999
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We also carry the Timken wheel bearings. Here's a link to them on our website. If you torque the axle nut down using a torque wrench, and torque it to the recommended FT LBS, you should be fine even with the economy ones.

Prices include FREE SHIPPING on all orders in the lower 48 states.

http://www.1aauto.com/1999-dodge-ram-2500-truck-front-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/y-mo-c/1999-1464-66?utm_source=competitiondiesel&utm_medium=Forum&utm_campaign=1ATony

Tony
 
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