Perfect Cummins combo???

WILD_PHIL

WILD_PHIL

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Guys over the years I have seen a chit load of Cummins combos. From the P-Pumped 24v to a 12v with a 24v head with a CR crank, all kinds of different combos. I would like to get some feed back on what you all think is the best combo. Is s p-pumped 24v worth the head ache of the swap, or is that a good option for a guy that had a VP and wants to repower it with a different pump? I have also read that the 12v bottom end is stronger than a 24v, but the 24v head flows more air?

Honestly I will not be chasing 1000hp numbers. Just looking for a solid build that makes sense and will handle extra power over the years. I know about the power adders and supporting mods. IE air, fuels, studs, and such. I am wondering about the internals that can be pieced together from other Cummins motors. Hopes this makes sense. Thanks for the advice in advance.

Learning about TDI's.
 
I think that all comes down to opinion and what you really want out of the truck. I have a p-pumped 24v and to me yes it was way worth the money and headache to swap. The p7100 pump is a tank and has been way more reliable than the 3 vps I had prior.

I talked to Haisley Machine a while back about pulling engine applications and they said they prefer 24v and CR blocks because the 12v blocks will crack at high horsepower (probably 12-1500hp) which you said you don't want to shoot for even 1000 so I don't think you have to worry about that.

I've found that some people claim they can get more air flow out of an 06-07 CR head on a VP truck over a VP head with the same amout of headwork done.

One thing you're going to have to realize on the forums is that everyone has an opinion, and everyones opinion could be correct for what they want out of their truck. Before you start trying to piece together your build I'd really consider in the end, what do you want this truck to do? Also do research on the people telling you what to do to see if they even have what they say done, or just heard it somewhere and think its correct (Good advice given to me from someone).

I am not sure if any of that helped your question or not, I am sure more knowledgeable people than I will be replying to this.
 
01Zip24v said:
I think that all comes down to opinion and what you really want out of the truck. I have a p-pumped 24v and to me yes it was way worth the money and headache to swap. The p7100 pump is a tank and has been way more reliable than the 3 vps I had prior.

I talked to Haisley Machine a while back about pulling engine applications and they said they prefer 24v and CR blocks because the 12v blocks will crack at high horsepower (probably 12-1500hp) which you said you don't want to shoot for even 1000 so I don't think you have to worry about that.

I've found that some people claim they can get more air flow out of an 06-07 CR head on a VP truck over a VP head with the same amout of headwork done.

One thing you're going to have to realize on the forums is that everyone has an opinion, and everyones opinion could be correct for what they want out of their truck. Before you start trying to piece together your build I'd really consider in the end, what do you want this truck to do? Also do research on the people telling you what to do to see if they even have what they say done, or just heard it somewhere and think its correct (Good advice given to me from someone).

I am not sure if any of that helped your question or not, I am sure more knowledgeable people than I will be replying to this.
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Some 12v blocks are stronger than others.
 
See I was just the opposite, I wish I had never done the P-pump swap, drivability, fuel economy, cold starting, all suffered greatly, the only thing that improved was top end power. If I had just put another vp on it I'd probably still be driving it instead of the 7.3 I now have.

As for the original question I'd say that's highly dependent on what you're going to do with it, daily driver? Tow rig? Hot rod?
 
cetanefreek said:
See I was just the opposite, I wish I had never done the P-pump swap, drivability, fuel economy, cold starting, all suffered greatly, the only thing that improved was top end power. If I had just put another vp on it I'd probably still be driving it instead of the 7.3 I now have.

As for the original question I'd say that's highly dependent on what you're going to do with it, daily driver? Tow rig? Hot rod?
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That goes in to what I said greatly, two people that had similar setup. I love mine, he didn't like his ... its all opinion and what you want in the end.:thankyou2:
 
Build a 600-800rwhp 12 valve and call it a day.
 
Thanks gentlemen. Great feed back and points to consider. I will be buying back a car I had in high school. Its a 65 Dodge Custom 880. It has a 383BB and a 727TF. I believe the car would love a Cummins. With that car I might actually go for big numbers because I will keep that car for the rest of my life. I know application has a lot to do with build plans so this question is hard to answer.

Let him bear the palm who has won it
 
I'm driving around at 601rwhp on my 95 with a 160hp pump, the "worst" of them....and I'd recommend the combo to anyone. The 160 pumps have less smoke than others it seems, if that matters to you.

edit: p-pump 24vs arent cheap to build, spend your money elsewhere.
 
Thats the benefit of not having any of the parts, I can buy what I need for the build. I have a few complete 12v VEs sitting at the shop. I can pick up a pump and put it on one of the motors I know are good. Only difference between the p pumped motors and VE are the fuel set up right? IE pump lines and sticks? Minimal smoke is certainly an expectation for any of my builds, but smoke just means you need more air, so couldnt I put compounds on?

Let him bear the palm who has won it

On edit: I will be putting huge injectors and turbos on the motor.
 
You need a front cover and gear too if you're swapping to a p-pump. Non-intercooled VE's also have badass pistons and 14mm main studs.
 
JQmile said:
You need a front cover and gear too if you're swapping to a p-pump. Non-intercooled VE's also have badass pistons and 14mm main studs.
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What makes the pistons better? I did not know that. I have been told non IC 12v injectors flow more fuel, any truth to that?

Let him bear the palm who has won it
 
STORM block, 215 P7100, CR head.

Not cheap nor readily available, but at least none of it is needed.
 
SHughes said:
STORM block, 215 P7100, CR head.

Not cheap nor readily available, but at least none of it is needed.
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Just curious, why a 215 pump instead of a 180 pump? It was my understanding that they had the same cam but the 180 doesn't have the timing notches, seems like it would be better to me. Unless you were running nitrous I guess.
 
The 215 will flow much more fuel due to the timing notches, and lets face it 4* isn't that terrible...
 
SHughes said:
STORM block, 215 P7100, CR head.

Not cheap nor readily available, but at least none of it is needed.
Click to expand...

Wanna tell me how you did it (Have a link to a build?)? There's an 04.5 head for sale locally. I have the other parts. The better flowing head would be nice if it wasn't a HUGE pain in the ass.. I already need to buy new pistons.
 
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