Performance Advise needed for p7100 swap

S

SuperiorRam

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well i have enough experience with the ve pump and have had more than a few years of reading here and other sites but want your knowledge. I'm swapping the little ve off the "mustard bucket" and swapping a p7100 on.
a little info on the truck its a 1/2 ton short box 83 dodge. engine set behind front axle centerline, weighing 4000 pounds, 31/18.50/15 mickey thompsons, 3.07 dana 60, 47rh manual vb, stock 89 block lower end (big bowl pistons), 95 head fire ringed ported on exhaust side, water to air on head, 72/74/.90 w/ race cover (have 1.10 also) custom 2" header, 5x.018 sticks (145* i hope) (built by weston i was told), fass lift pump, 215 pump maxed and balanced by seth at dpe flows 525 (no plate) 450 full forward. this is a summer toy only it has no wipers, heater or creature comforts at all

Question 1 i just got the pump back and it's pinned at 13* and i want to know what youd set the timing at?

2 dumb question but want to validate i will turn the engine counter clockwise while lookin at the balancer to advance timing?

3 i have never messed with a p pump at all and so the pin lock can you walk me through what to do with it once the engine is turned back? as in tightening the nut on the gear then remove the pin ( where is it at) (where does it go)

thank you for your time

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What size turbo are you running? What elevation? and do you have studs?
 
Sorry I haven't been on in a little. I would recommend 20*. That is really a good happy medium area. It'll keep your spool good too. Forget the pin method because that's only good to set your truck at 13* when your motor is TDC.

Make sure you take the pin out and put it back in backwards so you don't break it off. Stab your pump with out timing being a concern and tighten the nut to 100ftlbs or so (just enough to turn the pump over to your desired plunger lift). Now turn your motor over (you can do this clockwise or counter clockwise) till you know your plunger is at zero lift. Set your zero or keep track of what your zero is. Now find your desired plunger lift on you #1 barrel. In your case the lift will be about 6.9mm from "zero" If your zero is 5.7mm you will want 12.6mm of lift. If your turning your motor over by the fan clutch like I did you will be looking for 6.9mm on the downsweep of your guage. If you are barring the motor over or turning it in the proper direction 6.9mm will be on your upsweep of the guage. Just in case you didn't know you look for lift on your #1 plunger on your ip. You will find this by removing your dv holder and dv. Once you hit your desired lift you will have someone holding the motor from turning over and you will break the nut free and pull the gear. Now you will find TDC, once found stop. Now you will want to spray some brake cleaner on the shaft and gear face where the washer and nut seat. After with compressed air, blow the brake cleaner away. This is to avoid timing gear slipping on a slippery shaft. Then with a clean nut and washer torque to 155ftlbs. I went to 160 just to lessen my chances of slipping. Your timing is now set.

Another thing is that 215 pumps have goofy plungers that with too much rack travel go into retard. So leave the stock rack plug in. Might be worth a call to seth to make sure your pump doesn't have too much rack travel to have your timing go into retard. If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
 
Seth was talking to leave the pin in and roll the engine back the few degrees with a degree wheel which seems easy for the novice (me). I'd like to do that this time so I'd turn it counterclockwise while looking at the front? I was kinda thinking 20 or 20 + degrees to work with the timing notches. It does have the Mack plug installed by Seth so I have to image it's done right... In which case go a few more degrees for good measure?
 
I ended up at 27-28-ish on both my trucks, scared to run more.....

Edit: BTW, your truck is awesome!
 
Humm sounds tempting
And thank you it's just a old st Louis county truck with a bluebird engine lol
 
Gained 50rwhp from going 21 to 28...but it sounds horrible lol.
 
So I'm thinking 23* and I talked with a friend to validate my questions listed above

Anyone want to give a hp estimate? What have you done with a similar setup?
 
Mine is set at 23.5 and sounds good. I have been thinking on going to 27 just for fun and see.
 
I was at 29 and it was definitely a little chattery. Sounded like a cold pissed off vp haha. I'm at 20 now and didn't see a difference in spool or low end power for that matter. Only thing was a little more boost from my primary, no more bad idle haze, and idled like butter.
 
The pump turns the exact same way as the motor. So looking at the front end from the outside or at your radiator support your crank and pump should turn should turn clockwise. So I imagine turning the crank or barring motor over say -10* (counter clockwise) then stab the pump will put you somewhere near 23*
 
I have my timing set at 27* and like it. I used to be at 18 then 20 then 23. 27* is definitely noticeable in power when revving out past 3k... Doesn't feel like power falls off before shifts anymore


I like to go fast
 
When I do the redneck timing I put the cut in the harmonic balancer up by the crank sensor. I'm thinking .084 thousands on the crank is one degree. Three degrees would be around a quarter inch on the balancer. The groove is one half inch wide or there abouts.

What is that motor out of? I'd like to find a thermostat housing like that.
 
89 bluebird bus you'd have to get the inlet, outlet, alt, alt bracket, tensioner pretty much everything like mine
 
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