Here's the part numbers of what was selected for my setup:
Forged Dynalite Caliper – Part No: 120-6818
Brake Pad Part No: 150-8850K
Steel Rotor – Part No: 160-3202
MasterCylinder No: 260-6765
They actually recommended a thicker rotor to help dissipate the heat, but since I wasn't planning on using it to slow down at the end of the track, the thinner rotor was a better fit.
Also, obviously, the brake pads will differ if a different thickness rotor is selected. The caliper listed above can handle a plethora of different pads to accommodate experimentation with different rotors, but depending on how thin you go, it may require a spacer to be installed in between the caliper and the pad.
I was planning on running two calipers and controlling the pinion brake off of a third pedal, so depending on what you decide to do there you may or may not need an additional master cylinder. My truck still sees a decent amount of street use, so I didn't want the pinion brake operational during normal driving, hence the third pedal and the additional master cylinder.
Also, I should add that when I bolted a 27 inch tall slick on my truck it wouldn't build any boost without doing a burnout. Even with getting them sticky, 12 psi, at the dragstrip, and the drums as tight as I could get them, it would spin the tires immediately. Then I bolted the 31.5 inch tall 420s on it and it would build 15 psi before spinning. So keep in mind that tire diameter does play a role in braking force.