Prostreet driveshaft

[Motoracer057]

You have no idea wth you are talking about

When you grow up, and find out how things are made and built, then open your mouth in this thread.
Which should be when you come back and apologize, till then pipe down, your lack of understanding, reading and knowledge have let your 5th grade level shine thru clearly....

Wow, some people continue to amaze. I know you are an ignorant, arrogant prick, and that is enough in my books to call you out. So either pull them big boy pants up and deal with it or cry some more. Good talk, see ya out there.

 

[Supershafts]

I will never argue with you about drive shafts because guessing by your "handle" you deal with drive shafts everyday as part of your business and I assume you know a great deal about drive shafts.

I do not work in the transmission business, however, I have intimate firsthand knowledge working with 47rh and 47re transmissions and I'm 100% certain that RH output shafts are stronger period!

The intermediate shaft is roughly the same for 727, A518, A618 47rh, re, 48re with only minor differences in hole sizes. There are no differences between 2wd and 4wd intermediate shafts. So no, the intermediate shaft of a 2wd is not different than the intermediate shaft of of 4x4 transmission.

Also, you assumed that the RH output shaft is the same diameter, that is incorrect, the RH shafts are larger in diameter.

The RH output shaft, both 2wd and 4x4 versions have a mechanical governor with weights that mount around and through the shaft. The RE shafts are solid for the most part and do not have a governor assembly mounted to them. This is why I believe (not a known fact) RH shafts are larger in diameter.

The 4x4 shafts in both RE and RH versions are shorter than their 2wd counterparts. Whether or not the longer 2wd version is stronger or weaker is debatable because most 2wd's do not have enough traction to put the same load on the output shaft that a 4x4 tranny is exposed to from the added traction and load of a powered front axle.

It is a known fact that 4x4 RH output shafts are much stronger than 4x4 RE output shafts. I'm not aware of anyone that has put both shafts side by side in a stress test apparatus, I just know of lots of broken stock RE output shafts in the 450+ HP range and very few broken stock RH output shafts with almost zero in the 700 minus HP range. In fact, it wasn't till about 14 months ago that a billet 47rh output shaft was available because there wasn't a need for them.

Everyone has pride, and when it get's hurt, I'll be first to admit It's hard to swallow but at this point, swallow your pride and stick with your specialty (drive shafts).

I know they made little changes between them as for electronics and difference in stl and al and adding clutches , however i haven't had a H output with a E next to eachother, but after going back and fourth over which is better and knowing the designer says they didn't re-engineer, that means they didn't make new inputs/inters/outers and go thru all the engineering tests to make a rating they are applied with, which are the same.

So i have to take his word, which is what i believe, otherwise i wouldn't have offered they are the same, however i'll be more then happy to have this discussion with him.
Just as when i asked him about concerns with my 68 and that turned into a long discussion of why they only added more clutches to the 1st thru 3rd and took the short cut...

I'll make sure to ask about this and find out why this is, i have no experience with a broken output, I have seen twist and things can break from many circumstances.

This isn't a pride issue, i just happen to know a engineer and I take his word.

Wow, some people continue to amaze. I know you are an ignorant, arrogant prick, and that is enough in my books to call you out. So either pull them big boy pants up and deal with it or cry some more. Good talk, see ya out there.

Im not ignorant, and the arrogant prick would be you...

But, You don't get it....

re-read what the op asked and see if you can answer that question

Just curious what's been holding up and what works well for a rear d-shaft on a prostreet truck ~4500lbs w/ 9"

You can answer that properly?

Or you would be the jerk off that is responsible for this -
NMCA drag racer Barbara Nesbitt injured after a drivetrain failure - National Women in Motorsports | Examiner.com

Like i said when you get a clue apologize

You can not answer his question....

pro street 4500 lbs and a 9" Are you retarded and drunk?
I gave him questions, the same questions i give everyone, because i don't do things like the above link.
If that's ignorant, you are a real DH, and if thats arrogant prick, well this arrogant prick won't get you AFU....

.

 

[DieselWrencher]

You can not answer his question....

pro street 4500 lbs and a 9" Are you retarded and drunk?

.

You know I was just sitting back watching you post thinking you may not be a bad guy. Until that post. So how the hell can a 9" live in a rock crawler with huge tires weighing in at what ever, but not in a pro street truck weighing in at 4500lbs with diesel power? Seems to me they are living and they will hold with the correct parts in them. And I'm sure this is why the OP asked the question. Maybe he should just call a real drive shaft shop and get his answer. :nail:

 

[AHall]

Hope he's not calling me retarded and drunk. That might piss me off a little.
I think there is some good info in weight, class, and rearend. Retarded would be asking about a driveshaft in a truck.
Regardless I've posted more info and haven't received useful information from you.

 

[lorendiesel5.9]

You guys do realize "supershafts" is from Long Island, NY. He can't help himself cause everybody in or around New York City and Long Island are self-centered egotistical cut-you-off-flip-you-the-bird-and-then-run-you-over people.

 

[Supershafts]

You know I was just sitting back watching you post thinking you may not be a bad guy. Until that post. So how the hell can a 9" live in a rock crawler with huge tires weighing in at what ever, but not in a pro street truck weighing in at 4500lbs with diesel power? Seems to me they are living and they will hold with the correct parts in them. And I'm sure this is why the OP asked the question. Maybe he should just call a real drive shaft shop and get his answer. :nail:

A rock crawler see's what exactly ?
gas pedal is hit, truck moves slowly and crawls over rocks...
You really want to compare that to drag racing....
Re-read his post and tell me, like the other guy now we have 2, how you can give him any REAL answer.... How do you give someone an answer

Here tell me what i should do, my truck is 6800 lbs , 1480 series.. 11.5" rear

Here is another.
My car is 3900 lbs 1350 series, 9.75" rear

I can't wait to see your answers, im beginning to see a very similar problem here.....

Hope he's not calling me retarded and drunk. That might piss me off a little.
I think there is some good info in weight, class, and rearend. Retarded would be asking about a driveshaft in a truck.
Regardless I've posted more info and haven't received useful information from you.

Wow as this post goes on and on.

Were you quoted ?

You posted absolutely no info in which to give you a real answer on anything

There is no good info with just weight and rear end and class
Did you not read to the 4th post ?

You guys do realize "supershafts" is from Long Island, NY. He can't help himself cause everybody in or around New York City and Long Island are self-centered egotistical cut-you-off-flip-you-the-bird-and-then-run-you-over people.

Really, seems everyone else can't read, maybe that's why you get that kind of hand gestures from people..

Again re-read here, i didn't start making stupid comments and acting like an ass and looking for others to "cheer" "support" the stupidity.

You don't want real answers, i won't answer you. Simple as that.

 

[Motoracer057]

I know they made little changes between them as for electronics and difference in stl and al and adding clutches , however i haven't had a H output with a E next to eachother, but after going back and fourth over which is better and knowing the designer says they didn't re-engineer, that means they didn't make new inputs/inters/outers and go thru all the engineering tests to make a rating they are applied with, which are the same.

So i have to take his word, which is what i believe, otherwise i wouldn't have offered they are the same, however i'll be more then happy to have this discussion with him.
Just as when i asked him about concerns with my 68 and that turned into a long discussion of why they only added more clutches to the 1st thru 3rd and took the short cut...

I'll make sure to ask about this and find out why this is, i have no experience with a broken output, I have seen twist and things can break from many circumstances.

This isn't a pride issue, i just happen to know a engineer and I take his word.




Im not ignorant, and the arrogant prick would be you...

But, You don't get it....

re-read what the op asked and see if you can answer that question



You can answer that properly?

Or you would be the jerk off that is responsible for this -
NMCA drag racer Barbara Nesbitt injured after a drivetrain failure - National Women in Motorsports | Examiner.com

Like i said when you get a clue apologize

You can not answer his question....

pro street 4500 lbs and a 9" Are you retarded and drunk?
I gave him questions, the same questions i give everyone, because i don't do things like the above link.
If that's ignorant, you are a real DH, and if thats arrogant prick, well this arrogant prick won't get you AFU....

.

I dont know that much about how to make driveshafts and from the looks of things neither do you. You just like trying to sound intelligent. Do everyone a favor and stoo posting bs.

 

[Signature600]

You know I was just sitting back watching you post thinking you may not be a bad guy. Until that post. So how the hell can a 9" live in a rock crawler with huge tires weighing in at what ever, but not in a pro street truck weighing in at 4500lbs with diesel power? Seems to me they are living and they will hold with the correct parts in them. And I'm sure this is why the OP asked the question. Maybe he should just call a real drive shaft shop and get his answer. :nail:

Everyone told me that a good 9" would live fine if I spent enough on it....I went with an AAM 11.5 that's just been narrowed a lot Just cheaper, and still has the strength I need....only downsides are weight and gear options, but I think I can make up for those!


A 9" will live with the right parts....of course Supershafts is smarter than me, so he'll argue that too

Chris

 

[lorendiesel5.9]

Really, seems everyone else can't read, maybe that's why you get that kind of hand gestures from people..

Again re-read here, i didn't start making stupid comments and acting like an ass and looking for others to "cheer" "support" the stupidity.

You don't want real answers, i won't answer you. Simple as that.

Re-read your first post in this thread and then go back and read your posts in other threads. You acted like an ass in those threads your going to immediately get treated like one in this thread-- simple logic.

 

[DieselWrencher]

Everyone told me that a good 9" would live fine if I spent enough on it....I went with an AAM 11.5 that's just been narrowed a lot Just cheaper, and still has the strength I need....only downsides are weight and gear options, but I think I can make up for those!


A 9" will live with the right parts....of course Supershafts is smarter than me, so he'll argue that too

Chris

That's exactly why I kept the 9" in my car. If it were a truck, I probably would still built a 9" too. But narrowing a D80 or AAM would be a lot cheaper.

 

[DieselWrencher]

A rock crawler see's what exactly ?
gas pedal is hit, truck moves slowly and crawls over rocks...
You really want to compare that to drag racing....

You're fukin stoned if you think rock crawlers put around and never see any serious abuse. Have you ever watched them crawl rock walls? LOL Yep no abuse or power needed there.

 

[Signature600]

That's exactly why I kept the 9" in my car. If it were a truck, I probably would still built a 9" too. But narrowing a D80 or AAM would be a lot cheaper.

Yep, full spool, new gears, all new bearings and seals, and having a machine shop narrow it has cost me a total of $1400, plus the $600 I paid for the axle. About half what I had budgeted for the 9"

Chris

 

[Tate]

You're fukin stoned if you think rock crawlers put around and never see any serious abuse. Have you ever watched them crawl rock walls? LOL Yep no abuse or power needed there.

Not to mention the gear reduction differences out of the t-case/tranny. 20:1 vs. the 3:1 in racer. A bit more torque being applied to parts.

 

[DieselWrencher]

Chris, I probably spent that in just my center section assembly. LOL

 

[24VChevy]

My Diff was real cheap, narrowed 14 bolt full floater with a yukon spool, moser custom axles and wilwood brakes. Tuff too. Narrowed it down and welded 9 inch ends on it. Works great, but it is fat.....

Malcolm

 

[AHall]

After some research and some helpful pm's I was planning on a strange nod housing, comp axles, 40spl spool, al support, pro gears, etc. In theory it's overkill but with a trans brake it'll need all the help it can get. Trying to stay light or I'd run a 14bolt.

 

[DieselWrencher]

If you want light, that's the way I'd go.

 

[Signature600]

Chris, I probably spent that in just my center section assembly. LOL

I didn't include the brakes in that, because I'd have to buy those either way....but the way the guy put the rear back together after cutting almost 26" out of it was kinda cool...machined sleeves to fit the inside taper on the walls so he could get 100% penetration on his welds....I think it ended up being about 120% with the sleeve in there

The guy weld tungsten and stainless for a living....his weld are pretty awesome!

After some research and some helpful pm's I was planning on a strange nod housing, comp axles, 40spl spool, al support, pro gears, etc. In theory it's overkill but with a trans brake it'll need all the help it can get. Trying to stay light or I'd run a 14bolt.

If you want light, that's the way I'd go.

Yeah, these big axles aren't light, but for the money, I can make a few more ponies to make up for it. Fuel is cheaper that lightweight parts

Chris

 

[Supershafts]

Re-read your first post in this thread and then go back and read your posts in other threads. You acted like an ass in those threads your going to immediately get treated like one in this thread-- simple logic.

Tell you what, you re-read it

What are you looking for exactly.....

You can't make a driveshaft work with.....

4500 lbs and a 9" that is useless info...

You need to give specific info to make a shaft that is going to work with the vehicle and use its going to see.

1. length
2. transmission / 1st gear ratio
3. hp
4. weight
5. rpm

Now you can get an answer and options...

 

[Supershafts]

I dont know that much about how to make driveshafts and from the looks of things neither do you. You just like trying to sound intelligent. Do everyone a favor and stoo posting bs.

lol ok, you do the same

You're fukin stoned if you think rock crawlers put around and never see any serious abuse. Have you ever watched them crawl rock walls? LOL Yep no abuse or power needed there.

aside from the loading and unloading abuse, you still think it's the same...

So a rock crawler would be the same, and see the same as a shaft in a drag vehicle...

Are you sure? positive? Why not put a 2" shaft in your truck and let me know how that works out for you.

So intelligent around here.... oh so intelligent.

None of you tried answering the simple questions i wonder why...