Pulling EGT numbers

Don't worry, the piston kinda looks like Play-Doh after that happens...
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brandon.
 
joefarmer said:
Don't worry, the piston kinda looks like Play-Doh after that happens...
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OMG LOL. You guys will be my own "how it works" manual on diesels won't you. I ask how something works or what happens, and next thing I know, there's pictures, commentary and info from a very intelligent peanut gallery LMAO.
Thanks... I don't need a play-doh dodge though... Guess I'd better watch those EGT's
 
RedPuller said:
:umno:Oh yeah, it's so easy to hide those steel braided lines going right into the manifold......:rolleyes:
Sorry, Forrest I am not a cheater, I like to attempt to win within the rules as one should do. Nothing against you but true sportsmans play within the rules and win within the rules.

Joe
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Smokey just turned over in his grave... or was he the one that asked to be burried upside down so everyone could kiss his :shake: ;)
 
I dont get to 1600* when pulling, but there is a big difference between heat soak and heat burst. Myself and another diesel head had a long discussion about this saturday at the pulls.

1600* or even 1800* is not the end of the world when going only 300 feet or a 1/4 mile, and not as dangerous as one would think. There are exceptions tho like the guys spraying nitrous that melt pistons in an 1/8 mile.

Pulling your trailer up dead man's pass or some crazy 9% grade thats 7-8 miles long and holding a sustained 1200* or higher temp is what can wipe out a piston much easier.
 
getblown5.9 said:
I dont get to 1600* when pulling, but there is a big difference between heat soak and heat burst. Myself and another diesel head had a long discussion about this saturday at the pulls.

1600* or even 1800* is not the end of the world when going only 300 feet or a 1/4 mile, and not as dangerous as one would think. There are exceptions tho like the guys spraying nitrous that melt pistons in an 1/8 mile.

Pulling your trailer up dead man's pass or some crazy 9% grade thats 7-8 miles long and holding a sustained 1200* or higher temp is what can wipe out a piston much easier.
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I definately agree, as it does take time during a quick sled pull for the crown temp to reach a dangerous point where it would melt down and let go. I can only imagine what my cylinder walls are feeling towards the end of the track.:eek:
I guess I can put more timing to it starting the burn earlier and see how it reacts.

Joe
 
if you have fire rings and studs go to 26-28*, it will cool you off, add with that some EDM's setup for high timing. we ran custom injectors with full cut DV's on an S4 last year and only saw 1600*. this was on a 180 pump.
 
Smokem said:
There are a lot of elements to take into consideration when advancing the timing and keeping the spray pattern in the bowl.
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I know, that is what I am trying to figure out. Going to possibly try advancing the timing to 22-24* just not sure where yet.
The head is o-ring'd and i have ARP studs, just curious how much timing advance that set-up can take.

Joe
 
feelmecummin said:
go to 26-28*, it will cool you off, add with that some EDM's setup for high timing.
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get a set of custom's made. I know woodsrat sells custom EDM's.
 
my one and only hook so far touched 1400 degrees, but that track put hardly any load on the truck, only mid 40psi for boost
 
Pangela---like stated above you don't need to worry for the sled pulling or drag racing--just hammer it and go---chris
 
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