Q's about buying(i know i know)

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Fordidipower

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soory to make another "buying a 12v" *bdh* thread but i have some questions that i can t really find the answers too. im coming over here from the ford idi world and i havent bought a cummins yet but possibly could be and i have buying blind. so heres what i have so far

blowby- take off valve cover see what comes out
frame cracks- sterring bx and behind the cab
pump- make sure no weak power band areas
and all other usual stuff

questions are

is there any common issues to be aware of?

are the injectors and pumps in these have a 100k mile life like the rotary pumps and injectors in my ford? also any other good checks to do? rust isnt going to be a prob cuz im in az. and perpose of the truck is DD for a year and after that whatever

thanks guys and sorry for the stupid post:rockwoot:
 
To check blow by I wouldn't suggest taking the valve over off. Here's a much easier and simpler answer. Take the cap off of the oil fill neck on the Front cover and see if there's a noticible stream of smoke coming out. There will be some no matter what. It's just that way. But make sure it's not a crazy abnormal amount. I'm sure someone else on here would have an idea on what's an acceptable amount. Make sure the tranny shifts good and that it doesn't seem to be slipping an excessive amount. As for injection pumps and injectors, there's not much to them and they'll last for a long long time. If these trucks are taken care of then it's not uncommon to see a couple hundred thousand miles on the same set of injectors and the same injection pump. Just make sure there's no leakage around the pump that might suggest it needs to be rebuilt. Good luck bud.
 
Killer dowl pin needs to be tabbed ASAP. If not already done. Blow by was a big concern of mine too. Different oils will have different characteristics. I run rotellas triple protection and don't seem to have the blow by I used to. If it's a auto ask how often the trans was serviced? And what was done at each service? Fluid? Filter? Band adjustment? Dont be afraid to ask questions.
 
thanks guys keep the advice comming. and ya i dont know why i said valve cover but oil cap is what i ment. i would like to stay away from auto tannys not cuz they are bad i just like manual better.
 
Looking into a dodge specific issues, the motor is really your last concern. If it has been an all stock motor or close to an all stock motor, I wouldn't be afraid to buy something with 300,000+. I bought a stock 96 with 260,000 on it 2 years ago and not had motor/ trans related problems. But if your concerned just look for the normal signs of excessive diesel wear. My biggest suggestion it to make sure you, your self start the truck cold. I don't mean that it has to be below freezing, just pop the hood check things over and make sure the truck hasn't been stated and run before you got to look at it. IMHO, a cold start for a diesel tells a lot about the motor.

Other than that check the usually things, oil in water, transmission fluid color (if buying an auto), loose steering, abnormal tire wear. Also how well the interior has been taken care of. If someone has taken good care of the interior, chances are they've taken good care of the whole truck.

Good luck on your search.
 
The trucks are notorious for electrical gremlins.

Rot or rust above the windshield

If anything be handy. You are going to have to fab or make do as these trucks don't have the aftermarket support like newer trucks.

They ride rough no matter what.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Ok so let me ask this: if you could would you buy one again? Cuz I have a 86 ford f260 with a 6.9 banks turbo and a zf5. And it is a sick truck. I've always had new vehicles but always wanted to build my own. That's why I wanted the ford but I've always wanted a 1st gen. There are a couple decent one buy me and I feel good about them. So is it worth giving up my ford? That what I trying to decide. Ill always sale a car for the right price especially if it allows me to get something "better" I don't mind the ride harshness.
 
Yes it's worth it ! Love mine wouldn't,t trade it for a newer truck. Buddy of mine has turbo 6.9 like mine much better. Love my first gen
 
Is the head cracking due to the larger injectors a realistic problem on these or is it a bad luck type deal? Also the electrical problems are they like big things or just switches that fail fast
 
oldestof11 said:
They ride rough no matter what.
Click to expand...

Not with a kelderman air ride;) I just put one on my truck and it rided better than my wife's '10 Jeep Grand Cherokee!



If you do end up getting a manual transmission, make sure you fill it a quart over full. It will really increase the life of it.
 
stackx2 said:
it rided,,,,,, [/QUOTE

No John, it rode. Not to be confused with road, rouuuds, rooo-aaaddddds. Lol

But yes I can vouch for John. His truck rides great in the back end.

Now if only we could fix the front on these trucks!!!!
Click to expand...
 
Ok well I'm going to get one. Which one is still up in the air. I think loo keep it stock for a bit but eventually I want to do typical pump stuff but a holest vgt is in the near future
 
Fordidipower said:
Is the head cracking due to the larger injectors a realistic problem on these or is it a bad luck type deal? Also the electrical problems are they like big things or just switches that fail fast
Click to expand...

The heads are more prone to cracking on non intercooler trucks. The injector tips were bigger and just didn't leave enough meat between them and the valve seats. The electrical problems are usually caused by old, failing fusible links and the fact that the head light switch has to much load on it. That's a simple fix with putting the head lights on relays.
 
1st gens rule! Let me know if you need help with power.
 
So the heads crack but is that detrimental? Also I'd like to thank you gents for the replies. I'm coming from an awesome forum and I think I'll be happy here. Ill report back when I get my new truck! Thanks again
 
Guess it depends on what you call detrimental. I've seen pictures of them cracked from the outside all the way into the head inside the combustion chamber. That's going to cause definite loss of compression and power on that cylinder.
 
Negative.

I've heard of meteors hitting the side of the block and windowing it. It happens.

Cracks from injector bore to valve seat is not uncommon but also not a big deal.

Good luck on your search for the perfect rig.
 
if you do find an automatic to buy, check detent cable firmness also. when too firm the throttle linkage will only be allowed to move to 3/4 when the pedal is to the floor. makes it seem like a huge power loss but not an expensive fix at all. other than that theres tamper proof caps and covers all over a VE pump so itll be hard to be lied to about whether or not its been turned up before
 
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