Question on changing the oil pan

hummin cummins

hummin cummins

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Dec 17, 2006
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How easy is it to change the oil pan with the motor in the truck? Can I just loosen the motor mounts and raise the motor and get it out? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks
 
I'm doing one this week in the truck. Guy hit a limb so hard it dented the pan and now the rod makes contact.
 
hummin cummins said:
Thanks, mine rusted out. I couldn't believe it.
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Yeah, if you just unbolt the motor mounts, you can raise the engine a good 8 inches or so using a block of wood on the balancer and a floor jack. Not too bad of a job.
 
I've only done one and it sucked. I was scared the engine was going to fall and cut my arm off. I had to reach in and removed the pickup tube before the oil pan would clear.
 
I didn't think you would have to remove the pick up tube to get it out. So does it have to come off as well?
 
hummin cummins said:
I didn't think you would have to remove the pick up tube to get it out. So does it have to come off as well?
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Not when i did it it didn't have to. I forgot to mention i also removed the fan and shroud for clearance on raising the engine up, but it went up enough to remove the pan with no issues.
 
ctdiesel99 said:
Not when i did it it didn't have to. I forgot to mention i also removed the fan and shroud for clearance on raising the engine up, but it went up enough to remove the pan with no issues.
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Just so I'm clear, will it go up enough without removing the fan and shroud? Or will I have to remove the pick up tube if I don't remove them?
 
Well I got it done today. It was relatively easy, we loosened the motor mounts and the transmission mount and raised everything about 2 inches. The pan came right out, it took 2 hours start to finish.
 
hummin cummins said:
Well I got it done today. It was relatively easy, we loosened the motor mounts and the transmission mount and raised everything about 2 inches. The pan came right out, it took 2 hours start to finish.
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Sweet, glad you didn't run into any snags.
 
I have changed my oil pan gasket twice since reinstalling my rebuilt 12V in my 97.

The first time we over torqued the pan bolts....no doubt in my mind.

The second one I made sure the pan and block were clean, put a small dab of silicone where the timing case and rear main seal housing's meet the block, and torqued each pan bolt to 17 ft/lbs (Cummins specs are 18 ft/lbs). STILL leaked!! At $20 bucks a gasket it SUCKS! :soap: but I'm determined to get this new engine leak free!
 
not too bad of a job on a lift...just unbolt the motor mounts, which are 18's, and you'll need a wobble socket...get a pogo stick under the crank pulley then just lower the truck...then there's about 20 or so 10 mm bolts holding the pan on...
 
I'm thinking VERY hard about using right stuff the next time!


Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
 
I used a Fel Pro on both tries


Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
 
Got Smoke? said:
I used a Fel Pro on both tries


Sent from the command position of my dinosaur.
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I'm thinking the OEM gasket is thicker and if you over torqued them the first time did you check to see if they bolt holes were flat with the pan surface.
 
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