question on front drive shafts on the CRs

T

TxDiesel007

Uncommon CR problemed
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
1,648
Just curious..

was having a very low shudder in my 3500 for a few days... Finally got under there and jacked up the front end on it, and all was well.. All front is new, Moog, and NAPA parts to boot, as well as brand new BFG 10 ply AT tires.. Muds werent available and needed tires in a pinch...

what was wrong was the front drive shaft... I could move that sucker up and down about 1/2 inch minimum or more... I went about to remove it, and checked the cardon joints, and neither the front, or the rear one seemed to have any "play" or slight stick or jump to it...

moreso, with the shaft off the truck... i was not able to get the shaft to bend the same way with it even on a vise... wtf?

solution to me is obvious, the slip yoke has gone bad.. has play or something in it..


almost 600 bucks for a new one at quad4x4.. but they have the slip yokes and parts there as well...

just wonderin, is it worth my effort to fix it? or should i just bite the bullet and get a new one.. OR.. what upgrades are available to me?

deer seasons comin up, and 4x4 gets used, so i may as well fix this and fix it right.. dont wanna be in a sandy or muddy place with the front shaft in the bed of the truck...

thanks!
 
Check out doghousediesel.com they have a few choices with front shafts.
 
Rich at Doghouse Diesel sells nice upgraded shafts. I had issues with the OEM shafts from boosted launchs etc. I replaced the front and rear from Rich and it has been smooth vibration free ride since. Pricing was better than the OEM replacement shafts and a good guy to deal with. This was done on my 05 qcsb.

Chris.
 
Freezingsystems said:
Rich at Doghouse Diesel sells nice upgraded shafts. I had issues with the OEM shafts from boosted launchs etc. I replaced the front and rear from Rich and it has been smooth vibration free ride since. Pricing was better than the OEM replacement shafts and a good guy to deal with. This was done on my 05 qcsb.

Chris.
Click to expand...

What kind of vibration did you have? I have been chasing one myself
 
Mine was anoying vibrations from 45 thru 60mph. Not real noticeable at low speeds and smoothed out some at high speed. The light vibration is enough to hate your truck. I nailed the vibration down to the factory rear shaft that has the rubber balancer/isolator built into it. Mine was mushroomed out and crumbling apart. I replaced all the universal's on my old shafts to see if it would go away and they were taking a beating on the street and track. Replaced both shafts and it went away. The rear replacement was a aluminum 5" and so much lighter. The front was steel 3.5" and 1380's. Only con i had was fabricating new drive shaft loops for both front and rear due to the new girth. Now I feel confidant blowing the tires off at high speeds. LOL.

Chris.
 
Mine comes on about 60 and smooths out some around 75. It a really fast vibration so I know it's a driveline issue. The rear shaft has new joints so I may try taking the isolator off and see what happens.
 
you say the joints were good in the double cardan, but what about the center ball/needle bearing?

Just the slightest bit of movement in the ball/bearing throws the CV out of alignment and they vibrate like crazy (when they are really hammered out youll swear its going to jump out and break your legs!)
 
$600 for a new one?! Holy eff the stealership here they cost $330.
Mine is laying in my driveway, just gonna get it rebuilt or check out doghousediesel
 
you literally get what you pay for anymore and a drive shaft isn't something to look for the cheapest price on IMO.

this shaft is a middle of the road build but, more than I'll ever need. It wasn't cheap by any means but, it's not something I'll worry about again.

Rich's shafts are very well built and definitely worth the cost too.

shaft2.jpg
 
^ That is a man who has given a drive shaft or two some SERIOUS hell. - Whatever worked for him will definitely work for you.

That bottom shaft is in too few pieces for it to be his. LOL
 
triton said:
you literally get what you pay for anymore and a drive shaft isn't something to look for the cheapest price on IMO.

this shaft is a middle of the road build but, more than I'll ever need. It wasn't cheap by any means but, it's not something I'll worry about again.

Rich's shafts are very well built and definitely worth the cost too.

shaft2.jpg
Click to expand...

Especially since they don't cost much over stock. And stock ones are gonna do the same thing, again.

I'm def getting one of richs thanks for the pic!


Sent from space

And ATP rocks :)
 
Amish Elegance said:
^ That is a man who has given a drive shaft or two some SERIOUS hell. - Whatever worked for him will definitely work for you.
That bottom shaft is in too few pieces for it to be his. LOL
Click to expand...

lol, you're right about the bottom shaft. I ( with her not being too happy about it ) stole/borrowed it from the wife's truck until I could get another. Those stock shafts are pretty damn stout though. It didn't give out till after many, many passes at the track.


CumminsSwag said:
Especially since they don't cost much over stock. And stock ones are gonna do the same thing, again.

I'm def getting one of richs thanks for the pic!
Sent from space

And ATP rocks :)
Click to expand...

FYI..... that's not Rich's shaft. That one will scare you in how much it cost but, it's built much different than Rich's.
 
It's H.A.D's middle of the road shaft and considering the rock crawlers he builds for, I'll never break this one. They run 1K

It changed the waffle pinion to a flat flange, it's got 1480 greaseable u-joints, the cardigan is his own design as is the rest of the shaft. They're custom made to order.
 
triton said:
It's H.A.D's middle of the road shaft and considering the rock crawlers he builds for, I'll never break this one. They run 1K

It changed the waffle pinion to a flat flange, it's got 1480 greaseable u-joints, the cardigan is his own design as is the rest of the shaft. They're custom made to order.
Click to expand...

Wowwwwwwwww. Haha, we'll regardless Rich's cost a little over stock and will more than likely last longer. I don't race my truck so it should have a good life expectancy :)


Sent from space

And ATP rocks :)
 
CumminsSwag said:
Wowwwwwwwww. Haha, we'll regardless Rich's cost a little over stock and will more than likely last longer. I don't race my truck so it should have a good life expectancy :)


Sent from space

And ATP rocks :)
Click to expand...

yep, can't go wrong with one from him. I have his rear one piece..... very nice !
 
I bought a tom woods shaft for my 2005, upgraded to 1350 series CV, .250 wall tubing, cost me $525 shipped to my door. It also has a greasable slip
 
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