Regrind cam

I want to make clear that im only referancing flat tappet cams. I know nothing about running a big nice roller cam in a Cummins and could defantely see room for a big improvement there. There is Night and Day diff. in my huge flat tappet grinds [+.650"] that Ive ran in years past vers todays Big solid roller grinds that I run in my sbc race engines. Thought Id mention that... but I do believe 90% of the cam threads that people here are talking about is the old fence post flat tappets.
 
I want to make clear that im only referancing flat tappet cams. I know nothing about running a big nice roller cam in a Cummins and could defantely see room for a big improvement there. There is Night and Day diff. in my huge flat tappet grinds [+.650"] that Ive ran in years past vers todays Big solid roller grinds that I run in my sbc race engines. Thought Id mention that... but I do believe 90% of the cam threads that people here are talking about is the old fence post flat tappets.

More like 99.99999%... I don't recall a single roller a thread actually get much discussion.

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I personally had planned to stay with a stock cam in my Junker Drag Truck because to me, the $ per horsepower on a cam wasn't worth it.

That was until my stock cam gear walked off the stock cam and caused an external oil leak. At that point I decided I needed a bolt-on cam retainer. Then I figured, it would be insane to go through the trouble of changing the cam only to have the weaker cast nose break off when I get a big 13mm pump strapped to it. A stronger cam was important factor in my choice for my upgrade.


I'm upgrading for both the strength advantage of a steel cam over a stock cast cam plus the ability to run a bolt-on retainer. If I notice any benefits from the grind itself, I'll be sure to share them.
 
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Fair enough but I always drilled and tapped and ran a nice billet retainer on my 12v cams also. Didn't cost a dime. Never had a stout break or any cam failures of any kind and twisted it to 5500 rpm every pass for many years. Yet to find an excuse to spent 5-700 dollars for a 50 dollar product. But everyones different.
 
214-381-1177 Johnny or David. They are there every day, they may leave these days for lunch or something though. Should be able to get them mon. through fri. during normal buss hours.
 
Fair enough but I always drilled and tapped and ran a nice billet retainer on my 12v cams also. Didn't cost a dime. Never had a stout break or any cam failures of any kind and twisted it to 5500 rpm every pass for many years. Yet to find an excuse to spent 5-700 dollars for a 50 dollar product. But everyones different.

12v cams break all the time, weve broken a few as have many many other. Chuck them up in the lathe real quick and radius the filet a little better and the breakage is less likely. Im not sure why you keep calling it a $50 dollar product when most of the cams sold are brand new cummins ugl's or the ugl from Colt or hamilton dont cost $50???

You want to start with at least a 24v cam core for strength and better ability to put a grind on. It will still cost more than $50

You seem to be pushing these guys pretty hard, yet you dont seem to know what it cost to buy ugl's or make your own cam core.
 
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12v cams break all the time, weve broken a few as have many many other. Chuck them up in the lathe real quick and radius the filet a little better and the breakage is less likely. Im not sure why you keep calling it a $50 dollar product when most of the cams sold are brand new cummins ugl's or the ugl from Colt or hamilton dont cost $50???

You want to start with at least a 24v cam core for strength and better ability to put a grind on. It will still cost more than $50

You seem to be pushing these guys pretty hard, yet you dont seem to know what it cost to buy ugl's or make your own cam core.

Nor do I care.

Don't read between the lines here, I didn't address anyone in particular and it has nothing to do with anyone else product or trying to hurt or reduce anyone elses sales, I really could care a less. I just made available what 'I' did and what worked for 'me'. For me it was a 50 dollar charge everytime I made a change in my profile. If I had ever wanted to duplicate one of those grinds which I never did 'I don't sale cams' then it would have been 40 bucks. Youd be better off to stick with the other cam guys here and not dig and poke here to much as it can only made you look bad here not me, lol. I went faster than you ever will with a 50 dollar modified factory 12v cam. And Im not bragging on it any further than that, Im surely not saying its better or as strong in any way or even anything to do with power. Just passing along a very inexpensive alternative to someone that would want to run a better profile, and sure he breaks all the edges to strengthing the core and then parkerizes them as well.

But from this side of the fence its odd to hear someone say how bad a piece is that so many have proven other wise. Mine made 1k HP and never failed in any way in poss. 7-800 passes w/o issue. As have many other 12v guys. Untill your up twards the top of that list with something better Id think its hard to sale people on just how much better it is. Id let it go and let other peoples products speak for themselves.

One of the best parts of these old engines is how just over built they are in factory HP form. I wasn't big in trying to recreate the wheel but other wise work within what Cummins had already enginerred a bad ass stout shortblock. The camshaft as well is just massive in the right places and damn strong, a little touching up here and there just helps for future fatige. I understand some move their profile over to a 24v core to gain a couple degrees lobe separation and not saying thiers a thing in the world bad or negative with it; it may very well be better; I just didn't do it or need to, to make more power than I could even use. I could see the wider sep. helping no dought, 102 is damn tight for a non n/a engine but Cummins did it due to the intended power band. I just worked within that range and had no problems making big reliable torque. My setup was bad to the bone in the 2k-5k range. It pulled nice to 5500 but I felt it want to start nose over at maybe around 47-4800. Im sure this can be broadened out some more with a wider LS and much more timing, every combo is diff. and you have to work within what you converter will allow you to do. Its proper form to dyno the engine and tyler the convertor to its power band.
 
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Even at Colt just a regrind cam is 65 bucks..... or at least it used to be, Im sure they may not be any more...... Nitch market type of deal I quess. My cam grinders cost is nothing special its just what it's always cost to regrind a camshaft. And its never been any more money to put a hot profile on any blank so long as it fits..... its when you start coming up with something new that a pattern has to be made and the first one is always more expensive as is everything else. Not rocket science here

I my self would have prob. bought a expensive cam to get a nice aftermarket roller. A billet roller with roller lifters would be sweet even in a lawn mower.......not knocking anyones hard work and development in something that's better than factory. My statement about my stuff was regarding what I did, just running a hotter profile on a factory 12v core that's it. But they don't care what grind they put on any core, flat tappet or roller they do them all day long every day. No big deal not a lot of money..........
 
Goodness thats way to long to read :hehe:

Most good info prob. is. I read another Smokey Yunick book this morning, reading 'and doing' is learning.


Getting on the phone and ordering someone elses part then Having someone else grind it then marking and marketing it up to this point is not impressing any one, I promiss you. People like to See not Hear about things

Your turn. You should have just read it, and moved on. I was doing what this site is all about helping others out with something that I know that can help someone else out on the cheap. Nothing more
 
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