Removing all factory wiring and custom wiring a competition truck

I am trying to simplify my wiring as much as possible. Looking up info on the rule 3700gph bilge pumps show they pull 20 amps at 13.6 volts and require a 25 amp fuse. If I use a switch rated for at least 25 amps would I need to use a relay still?
 
getblown5.9 said:
I am trying to simplify my wiring as much as possible. Looking up info on the rule 3700gph bilge pumps show they pull 20 amps at 13.6 volts and require a 25 amp fuse. If I use a switch rated for at least 25 amps would I need to use a relay still?
Click to expand...

I would still use a relay. I don't think it's wise to run that much load on a switch. I think the failure rate is higher, and they will get much hotter. Just like the headlight switches on 2nd gens burning up.
 
Yea, probably wouldn't hurt.

I guess will run all the lights on relays as well with one trigger wire. Headlights probably wouldnt be used anyway.
 
I dont know if this helps but i plan to setup my new puller like this.
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ive gutted two second gens. one is a 2.5 ton, the other im mid way threw. its my 95 12v 4x4 drag truck. its a 10 for 10 truck, so budget is very tight. i gutted each and every single factory wire. made my own aluminum dash to mount all my guages and switches, re-ran all wires for pumps, lights, fans, etc... used simple relays when necessary, pull cable for fuel and air, and push button start off the starter.
 
Here is our relay center. Fuses are on the switch panel, and the distribution block is behind the relays. We use the same relay bases as Got - torque posted but not those relays. I think you can get just the base without the relay for $2.
 

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getblown5.9 said:
I am trying to simplify my wiring as much as possible. Looking up info on the rule 3700gph bilge pumps show they pull 20 amps at 13.6 volts and require a 25 amp fuse. If I use a switch rated for at least 25 amps would I need to use a relay still?
Click to expand...


If your running 25amps I wouldn't run a 30 amp auto relay. Look into a 50 or 70, or split the load, especially if you are running an inductive load(such as a motor). The 30 amp auto relays don't seem to hold up well IMO.
 
97crewcab said:
Here is our relay center. Fuses are on the switch panel, and the distribution block is behind the relays. We use the same relay bases as Got - torque posted but not those relays. I think you can get just the base without the relay for $2.
Click to expand...

what kind of distribution block did you use?
 
I gutted the wiring in my puller and ran a switch panel I found in my Dad's garage with just a few circuits. It's super easy and you can re-coup a good amount of money by selling your stock ECM's and wiring harnesses.

IMO, the number one rules about wiring stuff is don't think about it too much. Rip it all out, run a power wire to your switchboard, then run individual power wires to each component, and call it done. It's way too easy to over-think it all. Just don't forget to add good ground wires.
 
Although I agree with the K.I.S.S. method, you also need to think about how easy it will be to diagnose, trouble shoot, and repair in a hurry. When you only get one hook a night it needs to be quick.

Our setup.
No light, check fuse
If fuse is ok, change relay
if relay is OK, check component.
If it ends up being a wiring issue, each component has its own color wire.
 
I was looking at a few pictures, seen there was one of a duramax. I have a 05 thats a wiring nightmare ( just got the truck), but anyone is it a pain to make it nice on inside like some of the pictures I see?
 
I used the ones out of jegs in my cutlass and I just mounted it under the dash and it really worked well for the price I paid and makes it look allot cleaner all depends how many wires you have but for the simple part that's all I would do
 
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