Repairing a leaking VE

diesel_importer

diesel_importer

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Oct 21, 2007
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I haven't found any recent threads on this issue, so I thought we could discuss again. My dad's '90 started leaking towards the back of the pump. Seems to be the large o-ring at the "head" where the back of the pump is bolted together. I've seen some horror stories about trying to replace it on the truck, so I called the local pump shop to see what they would charge. Keep in mind, this truck is estimated to have around 30-40k original miles.

The pump shop said $800-900 just to do a reseal & calibrate. My jaw hit the floor, and told them I would just chance it and do it myself. I already have the seal kit. I'm gonna pull the pump and just replace the few common leaks.

I've seen the write-up a guy did, but he skipped around some and there's not much info on this part.
 
It's actually pretty easy.... make sure the pump is vertical (shaft pointing downward, and dv's pointing upward) when you take it off. It is a pita to get all of the return springs and what not settled back in after replacing it just TAKE YOUR TIME. Most common mistakes are allowing the camplate to fall forward and the roller assemblies can fall out, and the main one... there is a tiny disc in between the rotor and camplate...DON'T LOSE IT.
 
For $800, you can get Giles to do it. He's the Phil @ DPC of the VE pump world.


Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago
 
I've always though Giles was the best for a ve..... until I've talked to over a dozen of my customers that had their 12mm ve pumps fail within 6 months..... all using a "Giles" built pump. And it is NEVER his fault, regardless.


A ve pump is pretty hard to turn over by hand... in fact, I'm not sure one could do it without putting the nut on and turning it with a wrench.
 
Rc, everyone I've ever asked about Giles in the Cummins world has given me a blank stare. The only people who knew were those with old IDI VW diesels. The old crowd has never had a problem with him. So your news is very surprising to me.

Importer, impossible. You need a gear or nut with a wrench. You have a springs in there you cannot compress by hand individually.


Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago
 
The failures that I've seen have been all over the board... but the unhappy performance that I've also heard from... I believe he is still learning about what actually makes a Cummins run well. Most were very unhappy with the way it fueled (too little down low).

Either way, I still feel he knows more about a ve than almost anyone.... But, failures always cost the customer way more than it should and personally I don't see how or why a failure would even occur in a 12mm ve (after an overhaul).
 
Got it done. Thanks guys. I only replaced the big o-ring. The truck is sold, so I didn't feel like getting any deeper into it.
 
duse3u4y.jpg


This is the pump with the back section removed (head) and the shaft and springs removed.

2a3ezaru.jpg


Here is the small disk. It rides between the shaft and cam plate. Be careful when going back in, and make sure the shaft lines up on the drive pin.

eha6a8y8.jpg

Head with guts. I set everything into the pump except the small springs. Dab of grease holds them in the head. Line everything up and set head down onto pump. Tighten T30 bolts evenly, and you're done.
 
Pictures didn't load for me, but it sounds like you got 'er done. Pretty straight forward deal, really.
 
I had the disc not seated all the way when I did my brother pump, He needed a new pump afterward. Be careful, a dab of Vaseline will keep it in place
 
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