Retorque Factory Head Bolts

Super10brss

Super10brss

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Mar 29, 2010
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Well... I have a set of edge stage 5 injectors to install really soon, and a HE351 turbo, so I thought while I am there just go ahead and re-torque the factory head bolts. I have searched the boards and have learned there are two commonly accepted methods:

Method 1 - re-torque factory head bolt in 5lb increments (utilizing below torque sequence) till you hit 125ftlb's.
Torque20Sequence.jpg


Method 2 (cut and paste http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0811dp_cummins_head_bolt_tech_how_to/torque_head_bolts.html)
"Method #2
In talking with a few other high horsepower head bolt guys, we found that some of the more serious racers use a different torquing procedure. After letting the truck sit overnight to where it is completely cold, they'll take out one bolt at a time, coat it in oil, then torque it in 5-10 pound increments to 125 lb-ft. Oiling the bolts gives them a friction advantage over stock bolts that may have burned off all their oil, and it also makes sure all the fasteners are clamped down evenly. We took a couple bolts out of Rust Bucket to check to see if any were oiled, and some of the middle bolts were, but the exhaust side bolts had long since gone dry, which explains why they didn't turn as much. It takes much more torque to turn an un-oiled bolt than an oiled one, so if you really want to do it "right", we'd suggest this method."

So which method seems to work out best? :thankyou2:

FYI - I know ARP and other brand head studs is the way to go, but for now I will risk my factory bolts
 
I did method.#2 and it wked out good, but then again I'm only pushin 40# of boost through tbd stock Hx35 on my 12v.
 
I used stock bolts at almost 800 hp but had an o-ring'd head with a 24v gasket....

I used the torque sequence above (as far as the numbers) and took them up in 5 lbs incriments after reaching 100 ft. lbs.......

I took them to 150 ft. lbs......Yes, it can be done...Just pay attention to what each bolt feels like...

I would scrap the oil idea and just buy a bolt of ARP stud Lube...Not too expensive but is made for torquing....

Pull one at a time like folks do when swapping to studs.....Pull back to 100-120 or so....Then once all are out , lubed, and back in, Go ahead and take them up in 5's from there....You can stay around 135 -140 ft. lbs. if you don't want to chance it and are not gonna be running real high boost..

That's my two pennies!!

OH!! and if it was me, I'd do at least two full heat cycles with some mild driving then cooling....Then go back on a luke warm motor and do a retorque (Not releasing tension, just making sure the pull back to the set torque you orig. went with). This allows in HG settling to be caught....Of course this is most important if you replaced the HG, but since your using the same one thats already on it, you could probably skip it.....I'd do it though..It's only time!!
 
But for the record!!

I did eventually buy some ARP 625's as future insurance after having an unrelated failure and had to pull the motor...

625's are the chit!!! That should really be you ultimate future goal!!
 
Oh!! Super10brss

Fix your sig....It's "Garmon" not "Garmin"

lol :Cheer:
 
Super10brss said:
LOL.. people actually read sig's these days? If memory serves me correct I meet you down at Garmon's shop the day I picked my truck up.
Click to expand...


Probably did!! Would have to see ya though to remember...lol

Hope I was nice to ya....LOL

I was busy supervising Billysgoat while we worked on my TDI....:hehe:
 
My 2 cents... If you plan to retorque the factory bolts I would recommend combinig the two methods... Pull, clean and lube each bolt individually in the perscribed order and bring them up to 100. Then run them in 5lb increments in the #1 order up to 125 or whatever your final torque number is... Torquing dry bolts is just asking for snapped bolts, uneven torque distribution and innacurate torque readings...
 
overtorquing TTY bolts results in uneven torque distribution...

torquing in 5lb increments without backing the fastener off first results in diddly poo
 
If it where me I would save the pennys and buy a set of studs when you have the cash. Just set the waste gate on your new turbine to around 40-45 lbs. just remember to check the factory bolts for over strench.
 
i torqued my factory bolts to 125.....

shoulda just bought studs to start with...

they stretch over time, i didn't replace the "butter bolts" whatever my HG went and i'm happy with a new HG, new head and studs now.... it served its purpose of buying me time to get the parts i wanted....

if i were going to run factory bolts again i'd buy a whole NEW set, remove 1 @ a time, the block threads cleaned and sucked out with some sort of vacuum device (small hose and adapter of some type) {when i pulled my head off to do the gasket, all the block thread holes had oil or coolant in them except the exhaust side}, bolt lubed and torqued to 100 ft.lbs.... once all were @ 100, i would back off 1/4 turn and torque straight to 120ish and leave it alone, depending on what the blots felt like.
 
^^^^^^^^^^SAme thing happened with me. should of just bought studs from the getgo. tourqed my head bolts to 135 on a warm motor. held for about 6 months then coolent started seeping out the side of the block while towing.

Kronic 187- what did you tourqe your A1s to? the instructions only say 125ftlb but i wa going to do at least 135-150ftlb
 
They are torque to yeild bolts.... i do not think they are going to clamp much more, they are already in the elastic region. You would have to pass the yeild point and some more to get much more clamping force.... then you are asking for broken bolts. If you are going through that much trouble, why not just do studs? Re-torquing just gives you false hope.
 
Search stock head bolts... you will get all sorts of info...

FWIW, Garmon got mine to 155 2 or 3 years ago, and I have been pushing 50-60ish pounds of boost ever since.
 
I did mine 2 years ago and no problems since even with twins.

I guess some people just know how to retorque them and some dont or some have common sense while driving and some dont.JMO
 
Forrest Nearing said:
140 with moly lube is going to turn stock head bolts into butter
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okish said:
They are torque to yeild bolts.... i do not think they are going to clamp much more, they are already in the elastic region. You would have to pass the yeild point and some more to get much more clamping force.... then you are asking for broken bolts. If you are going through that much trouble, why not just do studs? Re-torquing just gives you false hope.
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I guess all these folks on this side of the country that are hauling ass and making big power without studs must be running on false hope...
 
I know taking factor bolts to 140 ft lbs works...done it on a little VE truck, holding 75psi+ with twins.

BUT, I don't know how the guys take them any farther...I'm darn near fearless, especially when it's not my truck, but I didn't feel good taking them over 140 on the long bolts. Short ones along the exhaust side felt fine, big ones just didn't feel right.

So, I know it works, I've seen it work, but studs sure make me feel better for a relatively small amount of money. But, depending on the truck, studs may not be needed...IMHO
Chris
 
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