Shot peening

B

Blueboy

New member
Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
993
I just received a price for Shot peening a set
of 24v rods. $500 does this sound right.
 
Depends, If that's shot peening, magnifluxing, putting new bushings in and resizingyour rods, it's about right. If that's simply the shot peening process it's way too high. I get rods shot peened, stess relieved, and heat treated for about $150 a set, then I have to do the rest of the work.
 
I didn't think there was any reason to polish
if Im going to shot peen. I took grinder to ridges.
This was for shot peen only.
 
Last edited:
Just using a grinder is worse than doing nothing. the grinder marks are also stress risers, and now you have way more. take a sanding drum in a die grinder and polish the beams while you're at it.
 
I should been a little more clear, I used die grinder
with fine stone on ridges. Where did you have your
rods done at. Even with shipping it would be cheaper.
 
The Bowdil Company - Heat Treating

They've done many sets of rods for me. They don't know a thing about engines, they just work on steel. You have to be able to tell them what you want done. Also need to have bushings removed, no bolts, and caps wired to rods before you send them.
There's also alot of circle track engine shops around here that shot peen rods.
 
Thank you, I will call them.
I was going to have them cryoed.
I think now I will just have them
shot peened, stress relieved, heat treated.
 
Sometimes cryo can weaken the metal being treated, depends on the material and the prior heat treat....

Peened or polished offer the same results, polished would accually be better because it sheds oil while peening would hold oil.
 
Last edited:
While peening and polishing processes do somewhat "overlap" I wouldn't subsitute one for the other. peening does help eliminate stress risers, and it gets into alot of places that you really can't polish. As far as I'm concerned, not polishing rods in a performance engine is just crazy. It doesn't take long, it's easy, and it's cheap. Alot of billet rod manufacturers peen their rods, and you could almost call them "fully polished" being they are fully machined and don't have near the stress risers as a forged rod.
 
morkable said:
so if you polished them you might not need to peen them?
Click to expand...

No, no need to peen them at all, the stress risers are on the beam ends(sides), where it is easy to get at, thats the only area of concern.


Folks get all twisted in what the polishing or peening really does. I'll tell you what it does.

It takes away the possibility of a crack forming on or around a forging ridge(stress riser) By simply polishing the beam you remove the possible issue and aid in oil sheding, which is another ballanceing trick. This allows for a closer opperating ballance within the engine.

Peening accually pushes metal together, making a rounder more uniform look, kinda like stabing a ball of plato with a pencil...yet oil will hold and stay in the peen marks and weight down the ballanced assy some,(when running) which will throw it off to a small degree.

Does eather one increase strength....NO! it just eliminates a possible problem area that is crack prone.
 
Last edited:
DIESEL_POWER said:
No, no need to peen them at all, the stress risers are on the beam ends(sides), where it is easy to get at, thats the only area of concern.

Folks get all twisted in what the polishing or peening really does. I'll tell you what it does.

It takes away the possibility of a crack forming on or around a forging ridge(stress riser) By simply polishing the beam you remove the possible issue and aid in oil sheding, which is another ballanceing trick. This allows for a closer opperating ballance within the engine.
Click to expand...

What about fatigue life?
 
Could you do a rough polish, then have them peened, then do a final polish afterwards?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top