Solid front mount

C

cumins01

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Nov 4, 2008
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Okay guys I have did a search on here and google and seen the pros/cons of this on the threads. Still can't seem to find a mount plate.

This is going to be for a 6.7 deckplate engine in the 3.6 class. It's going in a second gen dodge frame. Since I am using a shaft to connect the dropbox and reverser I was going to mount everything solid. Does anyone make a front engine mount already done or do I have to make my own? Mounting one solid, would you want the engine to sit level or slightly tipped back like factory? Lets see some pics, options or opinions. Starting to mock the engine up now since I have all my parts.
Thanks
 
I would assume, if using a dry sump, you can sit the engine any way you'd like. Typically they are tilted back so all the oil runs to the back of the oil pan for pickup. Also on hard acceleration the oil travels to the rear of the pan.

As far as a front engine mount, why not use one off of a medium duty truck application, they attach to the front of the block and have a large bolt through the center holding them down. Our 2001 Freightliner has one like that, I will see if I can get pics.
 
I'd set it level and as low as possible.

The cast iron medium duty truck mount would probably work, I don't know that I would trust the aluminum version.
 
If only we had a member of CompD who is good at getting a Cummins part number for something such as that.

#Snedge :rockwoot:
 
9724VF350 said:
I'd set it level and as low as possible.

The cast iron medium duty truck mount would probably work, I don't know that I would trust the aluminum version.
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Can't go to low since cross member is there. I was planning on making it level but wasn't sure how close that would put the reverser to the bottom of the cab. Takedown had some pics. which helped.
 
cumins01 said:
Can't go to low since cross member is there. I was planning on making it level but wasn't sure how close that would put the reverser to the bottom of the cab. Takedown had some pics. which helped.
Click to expand...

Steve-My suggestion is get the motor in and situated in at an angle that works best then work your angles backwards. Most likely angled downwards towards the back a little. That intermediate shaft needs to be perfectly aligned.

The drop box, drive shafts and axle housings can all be adjusted and angled to match. Even if they aren't perfect that's why you have u-joints. :) They are designed to take the angles and transfer the power accordingly.

On one SS truck the rear driveshaft angle was pretty wicked (both vertically and horizontally) with 1550 joints and it never had an issue in Prostock power or SS power. I wouldn't suggest this but it can take the angles.
 
I know that in drag chassis setup they want a straight line from C/L of engine crank through transmission to C/L of pinion angle. I don't have a clue on pulling chassis setup.
 
cumins01 said:
Can't go to low since cross member is there. I was planning on making it level but wasn't sure how close that would put the reverser to the bottom of the cab. Takedown had some pics. which helped.
Click to expand...

Cut that b!tch out!!! Then put a new lighter one in where you can make a good front mount off of
 
takedown95 said:
Steve-My suggestion is get the motor in and situated in at an angle that works best then work your angles backwards. Most likely angled downwards towards the back a little. That intermediate shaft needs to be perfectly aligned.

The drop box, drive shafts and axle housings can all be adjusted and angled to match. Even if they aren't perfect that's why you have u-joints. :) They are designed to take the angles and transfer the power accordingly.

On one SS truck the rear driveshaft angle was pretty wicked (both vertically and horizontally) with 1550 joints and it never had an issue in Prostock power or SS power. I wouldn't suggest this but it can take the angles.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff. I still need a few more items to complete so I can start.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Cut that b!tch out!!! Then put a new lighter one in where you can make a good front mount off of
Click to expand...

Thought about that Dave. Just removing the factory one all together and adding a piece DOM in its place so removal of oil pan would be easier.
 
cumins01 said:
Thought about that Dave. Just removing the factory one all together and adding a piece DOM in its place so removal of oil pan would be easier.
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We've actually removed it all together if you brace the front and rear. I think I started a thread on it a while back before we did it.
 
takedown95 said:
We've actually removed it all together if you brace the front and rear. I think I started a thread on it a while back before we did it.
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Jeff, thinking of tying the frame together at the rear control arm mount and running square tube straight forward to the frame. Then ladder from that to the frame. Do you think that will be good enough so I can remove the crossmember all together?
 
I don't even think you need that. Mount the front of the motor solid, mount the engine adapter plate solid, and if you think you need more use the factory motor mounts (but not needed in my opinion). They can sometimes be helpful to cradle the motor while you adjust the block angle for the solid mounts, especially if you use stock motor mount bushings.
 
takedown95 said:
I don't even think you need that. Mount the front of the motor solid, mount the engine adapter plate solid, and if you think you need more use the factory motor mounts (but not needed in my opinion). They can sometimes be helpful to cradle the motor while you adjust the block angle for the solid mounts, especially if you use stock motor mount bushings.
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Jeff, the bracing was were the coil spring goes. The open/hump area behind it. With mounting the engine solid (engine to frame), dropbox solid (box to frame), rear hitch in place (across the frame in 2 locations), solid/ladder rear axle, weight box mount, do think I can do away with ALL the factory cross members? I was going to use the factory mounts to help mock up the engine and then cut them out once the engine was in place. Also plan to remove the factory steering setup and front track bar for a hydraulic setup and custom track bar.
 
Just use the factory mounts the way they are and then weld some ears on the adapter plate and build you some mounts to the frame. you'll want to level the motor somewhat that way it get the back of the drop box up so you don't drag up going in or on the trailer.
 
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