solid rear with leaf spring removal

ryanss22

ryanss22

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Jul 17, 2012
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So last season I swapped in a cab n chassis dana 80 dually 10lug and just welded square stock from frame to axle to make it solid, but left the springs to center the axle.. By leaving the leaf springs I was forced to run a 265/75/ tire due to clearance issues sence the axle is so much narrow..*

Id like to remove the leafs and be able to run a wonder tire on the rear, but am wondering how I should gusset and where to keep the axle from shifting side to side going down the track. Id like to be able to run dual 285, or 305,or 315 tires to gain some width.*
Any ideas or picture's?
 
This is for pulling only right? lol

I'd just measure off the cast pumpkin both sides and make sure they're the same. Also make sure you're doing something similar off the frame/cross members to keep it centered laterally.
 
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Would 2" sched 40 pipe be sufficient? I can get that at work for free.. pr should I go with 2" square stock with .250 wall?
 
.25 wall is overkill and too heavy. I used some 3/16 in square and .190 round
 
Stuff we used is 2 inch square 1/8 wall


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NEVER use plumbing pipe for structural use on a vehicle. Use steel tube that is built and spec'd to the size you need for the job you are doing.
 
I did 2 by 1/4
 

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cquestad said:
Chris...there is nothing wrong with SA-53B pipe...nothing.
Click to expand...

Plumbing pipe is for plumbing applications. I would never use or recommend plumbing pipe for structural or safety applications. Yes it may work, but is a little price savings worth taking a risk??? If it is for you and your sanctioning body allows or misses that you are using plumbing products that's up to you and your conscience.

[ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASTM_A53"]ASTM A53 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]

I suppose for stiffening chassis and suspension parts it is not as bad as trying to use it for a roll cage but I have seen people try to do that too...

Most racing orgs require DOM or Chromoly steel tubing of specified diameters and thicknesses based on weight... I would treat suspension mounts and chassis upgrades with the same standards in my personal use...
 
JL Builders said:
IMO your lower bars look really short. I've seen trucks bend the frame at the back of cab because of this.
Click to expand...

well its not like I took sections out of the frame or its C channel look like an old Dodge frame but time will tell we can always make it better
 
Chris Tobin said:
Plumbing pipe is for plumbing applications. I would never use or recommend plumbing pipe for structural or safety applications. Yes it may work, but is a little price savings worth taking a risk??? If it is for you and your sanctioning body allows or misses that you are using plumbing products that's up to you and your conscience.

ASTM A53 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I suppose for stiffening chassis and suspension parts it is not as bad as trying to use it for a roll cage but I have seen people try to do that too...

Most racing orgs require DOM or Chromoly steel tubing of specified diameters and thicknesses based on weight... I would treat suspension mounts and chassis upgrades with the same standards in my personal use...
Click to expand...

Back in college, when I was poor, I wish someone would have told me this. lol I made a lot of stuff out of plumbing supplies, like a whole front steering drag link and tie rod ends. It was solid, but the more I learn, the more I think that I was lucking out with some of the stuff I did.

Type 5 DOM on stuff that matters, or Type 4 SDCR if it's just kind of important IMO.
 
huhta99 said:
well its not like I took sections out of the frame or its C channel look like an old Dodge frame but time will tell we can always make it better
Click to expand...

Skip to 30seconds. 3rd gen with short bars.

Attica Open Class June 2013: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5nXBf2i9G8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5nXBf2i9G8[/ame]
 
Ok was just a ? If I should/could use the pipe from work. No big deal to go get some 2x2x3/16 dom tubing. .

JL how far up the frame should one.make the main support beam? Up to under the front doors?
 
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