suggestions

ericfancher

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Mar 25, 2013
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building a 6.7 common rail motor looking to bore it out .020, cam, head work,etc. what kind of injectors and what 2.6 legal turbo would be good for this type of build? planning on dual pumps probably wont be necessary but jus thinking ahead. thanks for any help:thankyou2:
 
Nobody is going to feed you answers, your best bet is to write a check to a legitimate engine builder.
 
Nobody is going to feed you answers, your best bet is to write a check to a legitimate engine builder.

No but if he's gives an idea of HP level and pulling class (assuming 2.6 based on his post) there are folks good enough to give him some starter advice. If nothing else I like to grow the sport by welcoming those that are interested and helping them get started.
 
No but if he's gives an idea of HP level and pulling class (assuming 2.6 based on his post) there are folks good enough to give him some starter advice. If nothing else I like to grow the sport by welcoming those that are interested and helping them get started.

Agreed. :Cheer:

Horsepower goals ??

With a little more information, I'm sure the OP can get some solid advice.
 
I'd like to do 800 at the wheel nothing too crazy and budget depends. I'm willing to work at it for a solid motor don't want a ticking time bomb lol I know nobody will throw me a complete build list just looking for turbo and size of injector sizes want it to light decent as I will drive it jus looking for ideas thanks
 
You can make 800rwhp pretty easily with some bolt on parts for this motor. Get some 55lpm nozzles, a 120% over cp3, a 150gph lift pump, a steed speed exhaust manifold and a clipped s475. Tune it with efilive or H&S MCC.

For initial reliability you'll need some 625 head studs and I would suggest you install dual valve springs and billet pushrods as long you're putting in nozzles and headstuds.

You don't need a cam or head work at this point or to bore over the cylinders or dual pumps for 800rwhp. When you want more hp and dig in to the bottom end then do your cam and billet rods....etc.
 
Well I'm having a head done now with a Hellman intake ported and polished springs and pushrods valve job id like to build the bottom end because I intend to try to spin the motor at 4500 is there reliability issues with this? Plan on efi live but I need to get harness and ecu from newer truck
 
Well I'm having a head done now with a Hellman intake ported and polished springs and pushrods valve job id like to build the bottom end because I intend to try to spin the motor at 4500 is there reliability issues with this? Plan on efi live but I need to get harness and ecu from newer truck

Not so much with the rpms as long as you have good bearings and rod bolts. The concern comes with the rods and the load you may put on them. If you're wanting to do the bottom end I'd go with billet rods now. You'll pay about 3k+ for them but you'll be safe.
 
There are a few reliable rod brands out there but Carillos seem to do just fine. In terms of pistons you can stay stock and have them coated. I'm not sure if aftermarket Mahle, Ross or Arias aluminum pistons are available. The one down side with any AL piston is the wall tolerances can not be kept quite as tight. With a 6.7 there have been reports of the block splitting so to go 0.020 over increases that chance too. I personally like monotherms for reliability. Some builders don't like them because they are heavy and cost around $3k for a set. I like them because they can allow you to keep tighter tolerances and reduce the need to bore over. Good luck finding a set for a 6.7 though. I am not aware of any commerically available ones.

I think at this stage I would go Carillo rods and stock coated pistons that are cut and tapered for your set-up.
 
I am having a set made for my 6.7 through Ross. I am not a fan of the monotherms for a high rpm puller.
 
I don't know of a "street" triple. I personally have a SBC triple disc in my NV5600.
 
OK well thank you for the insight any idea what would be a good for a charger want something that will spool decent I know it won't be great but not straight up puller either
 
A clipped S475 is a good balance. Are you still planning on driving this truck on the street?
 
Ya want to keep as street able as I can jus want a hot truck that I could run the 2.6 class with
 
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