suspension setup

bigsexy7.3

bigsexy7.3

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Feb 17, 2013
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I know no ones going to give away there top secret setups but how is everyone setting theres up as far as getting the rear higher and the front lower? We have to have functioning suspension with the organizations I pull with so solid rear is out. I will be hanging weight up front so that should help get the nose down but my rear sits level with the front now and know when I pull that will change. Im just looking for any tips or tricks on setting my 95 2nd gen up right and save some of the guessing.
 
The factory block is 4in already and cant find anyone who makes a taller block over 5in
 
Running stock springs in the front? No leveling kit? Could run springs from a v6 1500. That will drop the nose. But also may sit on the bump stops once you load weights on.
 
I have 4.5" lift kit leaf springs in mine and a 2" spacer on the coils. Without the spacer it was sitting frame to axle. I'm hanging about 1300# though.
 
Just add 2-3 packs worth of leaf springs in the rear. Add the 3 longest springs to the actual pack and add an entire other pack in an overload setup. That's how I bought my truck and it doesn't ride terrible. With a 7K pound gooseneck on the back with around 10-11K worth of offroad rigs on the back (hitch heavy) I sit level.
 
bigsexy7.3 said:
I know no ones going to give away there top secret setups but how is everyone setting theres up as far as getting the rear higher and the front lower? We have to have functioning suspension with the organizations I pull with so solid rear is out. I will be hanging weight up front so that should help get the nose down but my rear sits level with the front now and know when I pull that will change. Im just looking for any tips or tricks on setting my 95 2nd gen up right and save some of the guessing.
Click to expand...

Why do you want the rear higher?
 
you'll find most of all the suspension setups are made in the garage
 
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I want the rear higher then the front because as it sits now my front raises higher then my back. With weight transfer and distribution id like keep it atleast level going down the track.
 
Just because you raise the rear doesn't meant you won't lose traction as the front end lifts. Your hitch height is still the same.
 
You don't see many gasser 4x4's sit way high in the back. Wouldn't you want to get as close to the ground without unloading the front end of the truck going down the track? I plan on having mine solid in the front where it is blocked up before I have my box on the front with weight in and then after hanging all that 60in out, I sure don't think it'll lift the front. Just my 2 cents though

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
Some of the best setup i have seen hooking had the ass end down low and planted. the critical factor is keeping your hitch from dropping.

PTPULLINGCHASSIS has posted pics of his setups before and they were low and mean.
 
everytime i think i have the perfect answer to what you're asking my theory gets blown right out the window. i've seen trucks sit level (we use solid suspension up here btw) and do extremely well, then I've also seen trucks with the rearend jacked way up high in the back and they've done well. i've had the best luck with just slightly increasing the height in the rear. i always felt like when the rear was so high in the rear that it was mostly loading the rear and thus taking your weight away from the front. only reason i say that is because at that point the sled is pulling down on your hitch more so than at a more level position. hope this helps sum
 
One thing you got to look at is the hitch. Hitch height will always be the same. Usually the higher you go the more the front end will want to pull up but it depends on the setup. A solid rear attached the the rear axle type setup is going to pull the same as a lowered truck IMHO. It really does come down to setup I believe.
 
A lot of the trucks you see with the face down azz up look is because the the organizations rules on the hitch. Most 3.0 trucks use a drawbar style hitch with a certain degree or angle on the face of the hook point. So using the percentage rule you will have the hitch x inches ling and the face x degrees. With the percentage rule the hook point does not have to be the furthest point back. So most cases the hook point us under the truck a few inches. If you lower the rear you will never be able to reach the hitch height allowed like 26''. So guys will have to use blocks or raise the rear end of the truck to achieve the desired hitch height. Hope this helps!


This picture might help
1147681_206025056270210_1339597128_o.jpg
 
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