Today didn't start off great.

jimbo486

jimbo486

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Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Well, it appears I'll be replacing the head gasket again. Where to start? A new head at least to get rid of this original 9mm injector bore head. Port and polish, valve springs, o-rings, studs...? Dreading it but I've gotta do it.

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Just make sure you get the head surfaced....that was my problem on my 2nd gen.
 
I coated the exhaust side of the gasket in loctite aviation gasket sealer when I went back together
 
Jim I hate to see the bad news, but I'm happy you have a chance to do some work on the head...

biggy238 said:
I coated the exhaust side of the gasket in loctite aviation gasket sealer when I went back together
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've never worked with the stuff. What's your in site to use it over normal copper spray stuff?
 
My experience comes from cat using it on their applications. I had one I could have taken pictures of a few weeks back to demonstrate.
You have to chisel or needle scale the gaskets off.
Cat issued a letter to apply it on an app where oil was migrating under a steel "shim" gasket.

I was talking to a member here that just did an MLS with copper spray and it was already leaking. They did a retorque but don't have long term results yet.

I'm 3k in on my install with no external leak
 
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JQmile said:
Just make sure you get the head surfaced....that was my problem on my 2nd gen.
Click to expand...

When I replaced the original gasket back in 2009, I had the head machined. It took .006" to get it true. This is the original head with 9mm injector bores. They're prone to cracking between the bore and intake valve seat. Luckily, there were only a couple of hairline cracks then and a valve job took care of them. This time, I'm gonna opt for a newer head with the 7mm bores.

I made the decision to pull the motor. I want to get a cam and being able to pull the oil pan will make the job less nerve racking. I may try to locate that groove cutting tool and cut grooves in the block since that's the ideal place for o-rings from what I've gathered. Although, I wouldn't plan on pulling the head again after this so they wouldn't have to be cut again after the head is machined.

Lots of thoughts coming to mind. Billet freeze plugs and a rear block-off plate with provisions for a bypass. I've been letting it sit for the last few days. Wondering if I'll be able to see any water/coolant in the oil judging by the dipstick.
 
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Pull a valve cover, flip it over and look for gravy


Sent from my Rotten Apple
 
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