Torque Convertor unlocking issues

zeigler86

zeigler86

GO 4 BROKE
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
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My 05 with a lock up switch will lock when I flip the switch. But when pulling and I flip the switch off it stays locked until it nearly stalls the truck then it'll unlock and blow the tires off. Any ideas??
 
I believe you would need a 3 way or second switch to unlock it. On my 2nd gen 47RH I could tap the brake and it would open the circuit and unlock the convertor
 
Yea, your lockup switch is in parallel. You need to put the unlock in series. I had 2 switches in mine. One was a 3 position(locked, off, and normal) second switch was a momentary in pparallel.
 
Something doesn't sound right, I'm just running a toggle switch in my early '07 for lock-up and it works flawlessly.
 
If its in tow/haul in low I've run into this the computer locks the converter so that is why it won't unlock. You need a 3way switch as stated so you can bump it to off and the computer can't keep it locked
 
turboram said:
If its in tow/haul in low I've run into this the computer locks the converter so that is why it won't unlock. You need a 3way switch as stated so you can bump it to off and the computer can't keep it locked
Click to expand...

Ok, anyone able to walk me through this/ have diagram? I need to do this asap
 
I just need to know how ur doing the 2 switches so it'll unlock exactly when I flip it off.
Thanks in advanced guys.
 
Switch A

I have never wired one that way, but if I was going to I would cut the wire for lockup, I dont know what it is on the ecm plug, but it is pin #7 on the transmission plug. I would extend the wire you cut to a toggle switch, this would allow you to control if any ground signal could reach the transmission.

Switch B

For the other switch I would take one side of the switch to ground, and the other side to side of your other toggle switch going to the transmission.

this would allow you to turn off switch "A" and have full control of lockup by using switch "B"
 
For normal driving turn off switch "B" and turn on switch "A" and the ecm will control lock up. Then when you want lockup if the ecm isnt commanding it just flip switch "b" thus allowing you to have the same control that you have with it now.
 
Things you'll need:
3-way switch
Relay normally in the on position
Wire

Find your wire off the PCM, put the solenoid in line with it and run the wiring needed to it.
Now run another line on the trans side of that relay that (actually technically side doesn't matter).
Take the trigger wire for the relay (needs 12V to operate), the wire that you tied in to the line after the relay, and a wire from your 12V battery's negative terminal, and run all three into your switch somewhere in the cab.

Wire the line after the relay to the middle, then one of the other two to the top, and the other to the bottom.

Now when you switch to the relay, you'll turn the TC off no matter what, in center the PCM will control it, and at the other side you'll lock it up.

This gives you the same features zstroken was talking about but in one switch and not momentary. That's how I'd wire it for a non-race application. I'd wire a lock up button closer to the steering wheel for race.
Good luck.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Things you'll need:
3-way switch
Relay normally in the on position
Wire

Find your wire off the PCM, put the solenoid in line with it and run the wiring needed to it.
Now run another line on the trans side of that relay that (actually technically side doesn't matter).
Take the trigger wire for the relay (needs 12V to operate), the wire that you tied in to the line after the relay, and a wire from your 12V battery's negative terminal, and run all three into your switch somewhere in the cab.

Wire the line after the relay to the middle, then one of the other two to the top, and the other to the bottom.

Now when you switch to the relay, you'll turn the TC off no matter what, in center the PCM will control it, and at the other side you'll lock it up.

This gives you the same features zstroken was talking about but in one switch and not momentary. That's how I'd wire it for a non-race application. I'd wire a lock up button closer to the steering wheel for race.
Good luck.
Click to expand...


Interestingly I did mine without a relay.

I used a 3 way switch.
Up position was auto(wire on transmission lockup) connected to the PCM
Middle Position wire on transmission lockup went no where(this was the off never lockup position)
Lower position wire on transmission wire up was connected to ground(this locked the convertor)

Originally I had a switch mounted on the column shifter that was maintained in the up position and middle position, with a spring return from the lower position(that way as soon as I let off, it would go to the "off" position).

Upon installation of the ratchet shifter, I went to a maintained in all positions and put a push button on the ratchet shifter in parallel with with the lower position switch.
 
zstroken said:
Interestingly I did mine without a relay.

I used a 3 way switch.
Up position was auto(wire on transmission lockup) connected to the PCM
Middle Position wire on transmission lockup went no where(this was the off never lockup position)
Lower position wire on transmission wire up was connected to ground(this locked the convertor)

Originally I had a switch mounted on the column shifter that was maintained in the up position and middle position, with a spring return from the lower position(that way as soon as I let off, it would go to the "off" position).

Upon installation of the ratchet shifter, I went to a maintained in all positions and put a push button on the ratchet shifter in parallel with with the lower position switch.
Click to expand...

My buddy just wired up his Hurst ratchet shifter with the button on top. He used a few relays so that the momentary button was turned into a push on/push off button. It's pretty sweet. I think an Arduino with some programming will eventually replace it, but if I ever switch to a ratchet shifter, I'll be doing a push button like that.

And I just like the relay just for the fact that the connection is down there, instead of at my dash. I thought of even running a second relay to make it so I only had low power trigger wires at the dash, but I didn't and doubt I'll swap it.
 
Purn1973 said:
Something doesn't sound right, I'm just running a toggle switch in my early '07 for lock-up and it works flawlessly.
Click to expand...

Same here on a late 04. I didn't wire mine in, so no clue how it's set up. But when I flip it to lock it locks, and when I tell it to unlock, unless the truck is above 45MPH, it unlocks. High, low, whatever range it doesn't matter.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Things you'll need:
3-way switch
Relay normally in the on position
Wire

Find your wire off the PCM, put the solenoid in line with it and run the wiring needed to it.
Now run another line on the trans side of that relay that (actually technically side doesn't matter).
Take the trigger wire for the relay (needs 12V to operate), the wire that you tied in to the line after the relay, and a wire from your 12V battery's negative terminal, and run all three into your switch somewhere in the cab.

Wire the line after the relay to the middle, then one of the other two to the top, and the other to the bottom.

Now when you switch to the relay, you'll turn the TC off no matter what, in center the PCM will control it, and at the other side you'll lock it up.

This gives you the same features zstroken was talking about but in one switch and not momentary. That's how I'd wire it for a non-race application. I'd wire a lock up button closer to the steering wheel for race.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

CorneliusRox said:
My buddy just wired up his Hurst ratchet shifter with the button on top. He used a few relays so that the momentary button was turned into a push on/push off button. It's pretty sweet. I think an Arduino with some programming will eventually replace it, but if I ever switch to a ratchet shifter, I'll be doing a push button like that.

And I just like the relay just for the fact that the connection is down there, instead of at my dash. I thought of even running a second relay to make it so I only had low power trigger wires at the dash, but I didn't and doubt I'll swap it.
Click to expand...


True, however the lockup and OD solenoids are pretty low power themselves.
 
So just to be clear, I need to interrupt the signal to pin 7 on the Trans harness on my 05? What color wire? Cutting this wire and running it to a switch and controlling it with this switch will unlock the Tc immediately when I flip it off?
 
Last edited:
zeigler86 said:
So just to be clear, I need to interrupt the signal to pin 7 on the Trans harness on my 05? What color wire? Cutting this wire and running it to a switch and controlling it with this switch will unlock the Tc immediately when I flip it off?
Click to expand...

So basically, this is how it works.

You have three out of all the wires going to the trans that are 1) TC lock up, 2) 12V (positive), 3) OD.
The 12V power is just a supply, and then the PCM controls the ground to make them operational. You just supply that ground yourself, and you're in business.

You can just run one wire to a switch that then goes to 12V (neg), but I found that there is sometimes a delay when you do that, like the fact that the PCM is still hooked up throws it off. EVEN Though, it shouldn't work like that from an electronics standpoint. That's another reason I like relays.

So you can do the exact same thing with OD, and leave it for PCM control, block it (you'll never go into OD), or run it to ground (it'll lock up).
 
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